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mattb73lt

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Posts posted by mattb73lt

  1. 1 hour ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:

    They ran those off overhead line shafts. Big flat belt from the shaft to the lathe. To reverse it, you’d twist the belt. Have run many of these converted to electric motor. 

    Yes, if you look at the video, you’ll see a large pulley in the center of the line shaft with no belt on it. That would be the one for the belt with the twist for reverse rotation. The clutch lever pushes in both directions to engage one or the other drive pulley off the same shaft.  The way this is set up I can only drive in one direction. You need a longer run to make that twist and I don’t have the space to do so.

  2. 9 minutes ago, Mark T said:

    I'm curious what powered that when it was closer to new. I've seen pictures of facilities with overhead shafts powering several things it looked like ?   106 years old....wow

    I've wondered that too, thinking of that time period. Could've been steam, gas, water or electric. I was in a mill once up near Cooperstown, NY. It was a wood shop that was powered by a 20' wide water wheel. When they opened the sluice gates, the waterwheel would fill and start to turn. The whole mill was set up with line shafts and flat belts. You'd pull individual levers near each machine to activate them. Once the water wheel came up to speed the whole building came alive. it was really amazing to witness.

    • Like 2
  3. 10 hours ago, Macke9500 said:

    Looking good! I ended up finding same mirrors for my LT, brand new luckily

    I believe the mirror heads are still available in stainless along with the the brackets they mount to. The arms to the doors are the hard things to find. I was lucky enough to find a complete set in stainless of reproduction ones. They’re styled after the B model ones and I had to fill and redrill the holes in the doors as they were a different pattern. I still have the original steel ones if you need some? They could be chromed.

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    3EAC2AC5-AA7F-481B-92B4-C59F6638DEC3.jpeg

  4. My B42 had fixed (non-operating) shutters when I got it, having a EN402 installed from the factory. From what I've seen, I believe they were an option on smaller gas jobs. I put them in, from a donor, when I converted it to diesel. The diesel engined B's all seem to have them, except the very late production ones the had that fixed grill. Fire trucks are a whole different animal. I would think they would've had shutters as they were built to operate statically for long periods while pumping. The shutters would help keep the engine at operating temps while in extreme cold conditions. 

  5. 1 hour ago, mechohaulic said:

    "old time cummins diesel mechanic";; how old ?😃. anyone from cummins CT from hartford (brainard rd ?).don't know what's there  now. haven't been that way in many years. an  instructor there :Fred Munday think his name. service manager gray hair with beard , the shop foreman = shorter guy. one of them may have been named Ray. there was a crew of the best quality, the knowledge and personality. the good days.  DD had bill black (bell Detroit).

    He’s 76, Rocky Rockwell. The Murphy Rd Cummins by Brainard Field is long gone and now an O&G stone place. I used to go there when I worked at Brainard. Cummins Metro Power in Rocky Hill is the place now. Not too helpful, unless you spoon feed them what you need.

  6. 7 hours ago, skydawg said:

    Wow,those pics are incredible.I don`t have the necessary shop or equipment,so I`ll do my best next Spring in the frame.Is acetone a good degreaser/prep choice?

    I’d use something heavier, if it’s dirty. Scrape the heavier stuff first, then degrease. A steam cleaner would be great if you can get one. If not, oven cleaner like Easy-Off can really work well, especially if the engine is still in the truck. Wear gloves if you use Easy-Off as it’ll burn your hands, it’s pretty caustic.You want it as clean as possible for the paint to stick. I wash it down with a good pre-paint wash like FT 200 that you can get at NAPA. Then get a good engine enamel from Eastwood or Bill Hirsch. Those paints are worth it as they’re formulated to last and made just for engine applications. A small touch up or detail spray gun is great for putting it on and getting all the nooks and crannies without putting out too much product and making a mess.

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