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fjh

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Posts posted by fjh

  1. 16 minutes ago, dogg rescue said:

    I failed to mention, the cable is brand new. 

    So if the cable is new did you replace it? Or was this done prior to you Owning it! If this truck was born with an air assist and it was removed before u owned it look for any random Capped off air line tucked up in the frame on that side! The levers on the trans and pedals have different  geometry  Shorter arm on the trans! Also the Clutch itself May be A non Easy Pedal Clutch ! Or is incorectly set!

    https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/catalog/clutches-and-brakes/easy-pedal-advantage-clutch.html#:~:text=The Eaton Easy Pedal Advantage,Contact Eaton

    Above is the usual clutch used in the application with out an assist! Try stay away from a solo auto adjust if you got to replace! They tend to fill with clutch dust and cease to adjust them selves properly! 

     

     

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  2. So look at the power tower where the pump mounted! This is and 89 engine Correct ? Does the power tower have extra un used plugged off holes?  Some where in this era they were transitioning to Inline pumps and the power tower was drilled either or and plugged off accordingly to the Pump installed! they also did this on E7 when they transitioned to R Bosch!  It was only a short period of time this happened!

  3. 11 hours ago, Supermutt said:

    Fred, Iam not sure how long it ran. I just picked up the engine yesterday for parts. The head looks ok so far after pulling the pieces of piston off it lol.

     Here’s a pic of the head that was on the broken piston/liner. I will continue stripping the engine tomorrow. Not sure if you saw my message I sent you on my truck and rad psi issue ? IMG_4556.thumb.jpeg.69ddbf8c5e69bc1bc172161c1f494507.jpegIMG_4555.thumb.jpeg.bfb3379e6e66d197e9ab32a51aa22e05.jpeg

    sorry I Didn't see your reply ! I once ran across one of these that the engine ran so long after the failure the only noticeable thing was a miss ! no banging sound! The piston was in similar condition !the peices were pounded into What was left of  the piston The picture you show there it almost looks like a cracked liner as well ! They tend to crack near the top also   

  4. 10 hours ago, Supermutt said:

    Fred, Iam not sure how long it ran. I just picked up the engine yesterday for parts. The head looks ok so far after pulling the pieces of piston off it lol.

     Here’s a pic of the head that was on the broken piston/liner. I will continue stripping the engine tomorrow. Not sure if you saw my message I sent you on my truck and rad psi issue ? IMG_4556.thumb.jpeg.69ddbf8c5e69bc1bc172161c1f494507.jpegIMG_4555.thumb.jpeg.bfb3379e6e66d197e9ab32a51aa22e05.jpeg

    sorry I Didn't see your reply !

    Did it come with a Fuel pump?????

    I once ran across one of these that the engine ran so long after the failure the only noticeable thing was a miss ! no banging sound! The piston was in similar condition !the pieces were pounded into What was left of  the piston The picture you show there it almost looks like possibly a cracked liner as well ! And likely a cracked counter bore! They tend to crack near the top where the  top ring stops ! That is my concern for your running engine ! the only way I know of  to isolate this  is to remove the cross over at the rear of the water manifold and fab up some riser tubes with drain cocks on the top (  WE actually built a set of theses)  and run the engine and watch which side develops bubbles!  By the way! Did you check the head bolts on the running engine bottom corners ??? The problem with a v eight is you can't take the Water pump out of the equation like an e6 / e7 !  Makes it harder to nail down!

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  5. So the piston damage is likly due to an injector tip being ruined by seat chunks ! And run for too long after the failure! How long was it run after it started banging!?usually you can expect to replace piston liner head  injector and turbo!

     

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  6. 1 hour ago, james j neiweem said:

    Freightliner is set to launch a pick up. No photos yet. A classic style would be nice. Mack should make an R model pickup. I would sign up. Then again maybe not if the price is anything like an MD.

    A flip hood would be nice though! How ever I’m not an md hater I am ok with it  they need to offer it with hydraulic brakes though air only it limits there ability for sales need to be able to hire cheap labour if there is such a thing these days!

  7. 2 hours ago, steeler said:

    Hopefully someone can offer some advise here. 

    Short story is i originally replaced injectors and cups, along with engine harness. Truck ran for 700 miles then came in for injector 4 offset learning at minimum limit, and had a dead miss in #4. 

    I replaced number 4 injector,truck ran great on test drive. Customer comes to pick up the truck and as soon as he starts it, dead miss in number 4 with the same offset code. 

    Anybody run into this before? I've replaced hundreds of mp injectors without issue. I'm having a hard time believing I've got 2 bad injectors on the same hole. 

    Did you run compression/ cylinder balance test ? Or do You assume you have a bad injector! have run into the odd bad valve!

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  8. 18 minutes ago, Castle Trucking said:

    I had oil coming out the blow by pipe and I changed the crank case vent. The oil leak slowed way down, but I changed the oil a week later and the next day it was leaking again. Can anyone tell me what they think the problem is? Thanks 

    You need to post the engine number MP7 or 8!   You likely need to rebuild the oil separator on this or just replace it!

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  9. Still think PTO how ever as Joey states Is a hard call ! That fact you hear it in neutral says something to me, Its in the main box and it only telegraphs in  direct when driving ! just my thought! Check the drain plug for chunks and get some one to double check the Ptos in my opinion! Wouldn't want to rip a trans out with out evidence!

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  10. 46 minutes ago, Boxler1066 said:

    No boost leaks….I inspected all the piping and there is no issues with the piping and it has relatively new silicone hoses throughout the turbo piping and they all look good…no tears or abrasion damage to them…and the air to air cooler was pressure tested and that’s good…it had a new teflon lined hose from intake to air compressor inlet and that hose looks fine and II inspected the intake manifold gaskets all the way around each port with a good flashlight and seen no indication of a gasket being blown out and also sprayed ether around the intake ports while it was idling and no change in engine rpm so it doesn’t appear to have any leaks whatsoever and it had a new turbo put on it about a year ago and I pulled air cleaner pipe off recently to see if turbo felt like it had issues and it seems perfectly fine….If it’s getting too much fuel what would cause that? It has a mack reman computer put on it a couple years ago and the mack dealer programmed it given the trucks vin # and engine ID tag information….truck has a complete new wiring harness from front bumper to rear bumper… new cab, engine, transmission and chassis harness

    If It’s getting too much fuel what would cause that?

    the engine has considerably more blow by than normal 

    I have oil pan off and all the lobes are nice and smooth… no indication of damage from a bad cam follower and same goes for eup lobes…I haven’t measured them yet with a dial indicator but I’m going to upon rebuild if I stick with keeping it a 300 to make sure it’s good

     

    Bad or sticking injectors! As for boost leaks! The Best way to check for leaks is to pressure up the the whole engine ! build an and adaptor to plug off the intercooler at the turbo side! Apply  Shop air regulated to 35 psi thru the after cooler and engine  ! And turn the engine by hand till pressure starts to show on the boost gauge assuming it has one! Believe it or not! there is a point in the engine cycle the everything is closed momentarily! when you hit this point! you will find almost any leak you want to find even bloby past the rings and valve guides  you will hear from the  oil filler neck! ! Is the compressor plumbed into the intake hose ? These fail at the Joints at the hoses where they connect to the  manifold and the compressor (common failure} ! A look see is not the best way to check!In my opinion you have one of three things there , in order of importance .> a Bad boost leak , lazy turbo ,or bad injectors !however I'm not there so I can't say for sure! don't apply the parts Cannon untill you confirm the boost leak theory properly!  The lazy turbo is a tough call cause its its the most expensive and doesn't happen often ! last resort!

    Just sayin!

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  11. 12 hours ago, Boxler1066 said:

    So the truck with the bad AI-300A engine has EUP’s and it is a 2003 Mack MR688S with an Allison…I forget now…I think it might be an HT4560…I’ll have to check to confirm that,…it  has the computer located on the passenger side up higher…. kinda about the level of the intake and water manifolds…it has no cooler lines running to it where the computer on the E7-460 I believe is located down lower and if memory serves me right I believe it has cooler lines hooked to it and the 460 also has EUP’s

    So to fully explain what’s going on here is I’ve been referencing converting that AI-300A engine into an E7-460 for this reason…..we have 1999 mack RD688S with an E7-460 that we use on the farm and I decided to use the information from that E7-460 by using that trucks VIN and also engine ID tag as my reference to determine the difference between these 2 engines….I did this thinking this truck has always been good and reliable and has the extra power that I wanted our MR688 to have…..since the MR motor needs an overhaul I figured it would be a good time to convert to a higher horsepower level.   As far as the Allison and driveshafts and power train goes I don’t think it’s anything to be concerned about in this particular situation….the truck stays in the farmyard all day and never has to go down the road….basically it never really exceeds 20mph and doesn’t have to deal with any major hills or rapid acceleration or takeoff on grades or anything like that….where the lack of power is my main issue on the AI-300A motor is has to deal with the load put on the motor to run the live hydrostatic pump and motor that runs the feed mixer on the back of the truck…..this mixer is mixing up to 35,000 pounds of corn silage, haylage and grains all at once in the mixer and that takes some power…..and to get the mixer to run the optimum speed to mix the feed ration adequately the math says the engine rpm should be 1600ish rpm range while the truck is being loaded with all the feed ingredients and also around that same 1600 rpm range offloads the mixer at about the right rate…. Problem is while mixing and offloading currently I generally can’t get the motor up much past 1100-1200 rpm range all the while the truck is laboring, throwing moderate to medium black smoke stream…. air cleaner is good… fuel filters good….air to air is good and pressure tested…. no air leaks from turbo compressor outlet to cylinder heads…has a new turbo on it…. has a new fuel transfer pump running proper pressure with a new hand primer pump on transfer pump and checked for air bubbles at transfer pump inlet with a clear glass sight glass to ensure transfer pump isn’t sucking air in fuel line from fuel tank to transfer pump inlet and see no indication of air…..I did all the above listed diagnostic about a year ago and it’s getting worse….i can tell the motor is just sick and it’s tired….its had a lot of hours put on it since we bought it used and I’m not certain of its history because I don’t know that the tach, odometer or computer are original when we bought it… but its got a fair amount of blow by,….coolant in oil and it’s always been sluggish but even more so now than when we got it…I think I would have considered looking for a complete descent E7-460 atec or E7-400 atec and then rebuilt that and put it in but when you weigh it all out I don’t know I’d be much farther ahead… far as I know if I bought a used one it may have needed a cam as well or the charger and injectors etc…etc… may have had needed to be replaced upon rebuild plus all the extra work of a complete engine swap and all the little differences you always seem to come across on a swap from one model to another vs an in frame rebuild of the sick AI motor so all that kinda got me to this point

    In my opinion that engine if it was fresh should easily do the job! After all your not racing it!  If it has issues  Fix the issues and leave the rest alone! Black smoke indicates lack of air or too much fuel! Have you checked for boost leaks !??? does it have a lot of blow by? For the job its doing it sounds like a lot of work to go thru to get a basic job done! When all you need to address is  address the issues IE: a set of a set of injectors or a turbo  and or some boost leaks! Whole lot cheaper and less time consuming! Also the 300 has a pretty large torque curve due to the fact that there is and Allison behind it! 460 not so much! I have seen a 427 with an Allison ! I am just thinking about time vers result here! What you purposing is doable but worth while ?????

    Just saying!

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