fjh
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Posts posted by fjh
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CHECK THE LINER PROTRUSION As stated earlier Very important! 25 - 30 thou is good anything less than 22 not great at all!
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Just join the lines together it will be fine!
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Eteck injectors Bottom on the head casting NO Cups! Just sleeves! Coolant flows around the sleeves
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19 hours ago, james j neiweem said:
Where are the Mack engineers such as Dave McKenna who used to post on the Mack website and Mack 3P who used to post on here. Miss their inputs.
Real good Question James ! The Swedes probably ran em off! MACK had some Good people working for em there"s still a few around Think Dave Troupe is still hanging in there in the back ground!
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If it has a trany cooler CHECK the trans make sure its no going there! Change the rad cap! Check the engine oil !Also quite common for water pump bolts to break!
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In addition to idling you cant have any exhaust leaks check the flex under the cab and yes they can go bad , however its highly unlikely!
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On 2/19/2017 at 5:03 AM, Flat Work said:
Sorry, I've been swamped the last week or so.
I've got it working. I took it for a drive the other day, and noticed as the truck hit about 1700-1800 rpm's, the boost would really come up, and the lightning bolt on the dash would go off. But it would come back on when the engine speed would lower back down. I actually just used a pry bar where the actuator rod connected to the vane control, and pry it up and down, until it moved freely. And sprayed it with some of grandpa's secret penetrating oil. Its working fine now. And its not throwing a code anymore.
If your by a dealer at some point You may want to stop by and have em calibrate the VGT It may have picked up some bad habits!
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The vacuum was created by a leaking air venturi affair in the under bunk storage. I don't think it would go thru a DOT check now a days. Wouldn't pass, audible air leak! This unit was built using leftover car parts from the fifties and sixties! As Glenn described, the heater controls ran on vacuum.
And the switches were from a 66 F-150. I'm surprised they didn't use vacuum for the wipers as well. Good example of using what you have on hand to build something for sure! The MH design blew this out of the water! The MH was the best cabover built by anyone at the time and since in my opinion!
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Nothing! You got boost leaks or a lazy turbo in my opinion Have the charge air system checked for leaks and if you find nothing replace the turbo! also depending where the truck is from some trucks were built with a cold weather charge air bypass for quicker warm up if it has this make sure it aint stuck in by pass mode!
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Yup 5 speed pto driven off the center section of the trans! pto mounts on the lower counter shaft the lower rear section shaft is hollow to eccept the thru shaft of the pto!
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Still needs fuel add as mentioned 70 psi under load min!
after that injector up grade!
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Wouldn't it be nice if this fixes his problem for good!
Yup If your an O/O these days You Don"t dare NOT Buy A super Warrenty And hopfully you earn enough to be down while its being repaired Don't matter whos truck you own! Cummins is everybit as bad for not giving the rats ass if your unit is down . unless you happen to have a fleet! then THEY MITE kiss ass a little!
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check to see if air is getting to the RIGHT side! Plugged hose bla bla !Its likely not the foot valve!
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Keep the 53s Put more trucks on the road, more employment for everyone! double 33s are counter productive ! for job creation!
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WELL Looky there a performance six pack GOOD JOB just pop those babys in there!
Like I said AND there's your proof!
Only six grand! cheap a twice the price! Are we doing a complimentary Cup Job to top it off!
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Usually noticed in the higher rpms! Know engine codes but anything is possible like MPro said lots of different symptoms! You may have injector or injector harness issues If its coding / hard to tell till you look!
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14 hours ago, kscarbel2 said:
Your thinking is right. Always go with a new clutch.
Yup amen to that!
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The only ones bending over backwards here are guys like MP And myself and others in the field that care about having customers ! The Volvo turds don't give a rats ***
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11 hours ago, chana1634 said:
I had a fuel line, leaking #2 I first remove line, and put sealant tape, but I notice that fuel was getting in engine, when and got new line and install, new line that fix that problem, but I notice that when I start engine it kinds to has hard start, and some white smoke like when I install the new line and air got to the system, after engine runs, It clears up, but when getting to normal temp, and I'm loaded the engine has a miss, and I feel some power lost, now I check injector and #2 is little cold than #1, but not by much, now I turn engine off and let it cool for 3o minutes, and start again and it don't start smooth, it start a little rough, like in the morning but less, I wonder if the transfer pump is going bad, or any body has any idea, I thanks you all for your help.
I think MP was looking at the wrong post when he wrote the above !
It is possible that your transfer pump may cause this symptom ! How ever sounds like an injector issue to me!
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That's pretty unit MP
Hope your right about the C Rail would be a nice change ! Would be nice to have a somewhat Trouble free engine , There's more than enough to do just with after treatment crap!
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Collectors item Now ! Bud Its going to be worth millions in twenty years or so if your willing to wait!
Funny thing is the Volvo site hasn't removed the D16 we Will have to c how this unfolds!
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The symptom you post is the same as if you start the engine with the throttle unplugged! Just sayin!Check the throttle plug!
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In my opinion I would lift the lids and check the set due to quality concerns of parts theses days !Before volvo took the raines the quality of reman parts was way better! I do not like remac heads particularly they tend to be sloppy and do not follow wear limits for replacement of guides and valve stems and the quality of the replacement valves and seats them selves are in question! Way back when Mack was mack you could count on getting decent stuff NOT These days!
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If it is still building air its likely a lifter failure I believe the compressor inlet it plumbed into the inlet manifold on that year
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E-7 timing selinoid
in Engine and Transmission
Posted
It may be the econovance its self the spring may be broken or simply worn out! If working properly When the engine starts it should stumble and sputter and smoke till the oil preasure comes up then smooth out if its not doing this and u have changed the sol it could be a physical issue with the advance its self!