Bollweevil

I suppose I have led a sheltered life, as I was not aware of an overdrive 10 speed prior to the FRO series. The 12513 with it's 1st generation spur cut gears has earned a well deserved rep for being noisy. All the racket is in the back box though. If you wanted to you can replace the rear box with a 12509 rear, and at the same time over drive the front box. That way you can use the transmission you already already have.

The 9 over's are a .73 the 10 overs are a .74 overdrive respectfully. The 10 spreads the ratios a little differently. On flat ground, you wont see much difference. On a long grade, when you have to drop one gear, the difference begins to show. as rpm max's out the 10 will be pulling and the 9 will be against the gov as road speed drops off. Go to Road Ranger.com. Close to the bottom of the page, click on specifications, then choose transmissions. You can find more information than you can use.

Nitrogen, under pressure, and a spray bottle of soapy water, also makes for a great leak detector.

Clean and dry is a prerequisite for longevity. Dichlorodifluoromethane + even small amounts of H2O combine to create hydrocloric acid, or something just as nasty, the results of which cause more damage than normal wear particulates. Nobody does it, but you need to pull a deep vacuume for at least 4 hours when a system has been opened.

Another point worth considering, is that the service life of an AC compressor on a class 8 truck is nothing near the half life of Radium. In the 70's a Buick or Old's with 150,000 was was was pretty much used up. We put that much on a truck, in a year easy, with the same basic compressor. If you have a lot of miles on a compressor that is leaking, replacement is probably a better choice. Especially if you figure down time as worth anything. That said, I would probably take 3 or 4 apart to make 1 good one. If you you don't have a compressor clutch tool kit, that is about 1/3 the price of a compressor.

I do not know which, or what might have been available in your time frame. For a quick ID, the body of a Sanden compressor is round, and the body of a York is square. Back in the day, when confronted with having to replace a york compressor I would always specify a Tecumseh replacement. The reason being, the York housing was aluminum, and the Tecumseh was cast iron, and seemed to last a lot longer. Either was supplied with two versions of service port seals, which do not interchange. Today, a Sanden compressor is a much better choice, even if you have to round up the correct mounting brackets. You can buy a Sanden just about anywhere, but they are model specific. There are many different clutch, pulley, and service port configurations, even though most mounting points seem to be the same. I should mention, to further complicate matters, that the York type compressor always seemed to come less the clutch assembly. You had to transfer yours to the new compressor, or buy a new one separately.

44's will have 6 axle retaining studs, or bolts.

The 14609A is a direct, or 1 to 1, you need a 14609B which is a .73 overdrive. you would still have a reasonably low first gear, and it is common enough to be reasonably priced. An 8LL would be even better, you could have the same overdrive ratio, and deep reduction. They are somewhat pricey though.

I don't see that knowing how something works, and being able, and or willing to repair it yourself, is is either foolish, wasteful, or blowing good money. In the distant past we had to fix stuff. Locally rebuilt parts usually were not worth what they would bring for scrap, and warranty would not pay to replace repairable parts. Bosch doesn't seem to service the gear. Diesel Plus, Ringgold GA. 706 866 3619, can have a new Bosch lift pump delivered to your door for $189.60 plus shipping, no core. Ask for John, if interested .

I too am sorry to hear about your son. Paybacks are hell, as the saying goes, and hell is not full.

The way the story goes is like this, When he opened his eyes in his after life, George Washington walked up and cold cocked him, followed by Thomas Jefferson, Patrick Henry, James Madison, and a host of others. Such treatment, he complained, I am supposed to be attended by 72 virgins. No MF, you have it all wrong, you are being tended to by 72 Virginian's was the reply. Instead of burying him at sea, they should have brought him back to Iowa and fed him to the hogs, nationally televised.

Antifreeze is just like sugar, or has the same effect, when mixed with engine oil. I wouldn't run it any longer than it takes to get it in the shop. Certainly not under a load.

I used to stop at the top of the hill at the first casino. to pick up Nevada permits. Traffic was so heavy the last time I crossed, my son got out of the truck, took pictures and got back in before I got across.

Electrical problems can sometimes be difficult to sort out. As the old saying's go, there are two side to every story, or two sides to every coin. There are two sides to an electrical system. Positive and negative. Both are equally important, but, the negative side is often neglected. You can have good hot batteries, and still have low voltage at the starter, due to loose, or faulty ground straps. Your truck should have an engine to chassis ground, and a chassis to body ground in addition to the battery to engine ground. To further complicate things, it is possible to have a battery which checks good voltage wise, and still doesn't have the amperage to turn the starter. It would only take one, in the battery group, to leave you sitting. Starters are mechanical, and they do go bad over time. Anything other than a drive gear can usually go right back to low voltage. A short in the primary cable to the solenoid, would likely melt the cable and, or catch the truck on fire. Melting insulation at the solenoid without frying the solenoid is unlikely. You might not like to hear this, but You can buy a Cummims rebuilt SAE starter with a two year warranty at a decent price.

Only, if at some point, you had to get out and push it.

If I wasn't so tickled for you, I would probably be jealous.

456's with tall rubber and a .73 overdrive would give you almost 72 MPH at 1900 Rpm. To further satisfy your curiosity go to to the Road ranger home page, scroll down to tools you can use and choose the road speed calculator. You can use the site to find torque ratings on about any products that Eaton Road Ranger offers. 5&4 and 6&4 set up's are usually Spicer. I am sure they have something heavy enough.

The fork may be bad also, but the problem is more than likely the main shaft high, or head gear, and it's shifter clutch. When an Eaton transmission begins to slip out of any gear, it will soon round off both the shifter clutch and the gear to the point that it will not stay engaged. A bungie strap or forked stick wont even help.

A new balancer is not cheap. Even though they are prone to run a long time, they are still considered to be a maintenance item. They should be inspected regularly and replaced if suspect. They are a lot cheaper however than an engine. If you just have to find a used one, pick it up and shake it, if it rattles it is no good, inspect it for leaks, dents, or bulging. Clean the paint off on both sides in an area 90 degrees apart, thats 4 places. Measure it with a micrometer at these places you should have no more than .010 difference.

You can bookmark it again, or add it to your favorites again, or if it is, as mine, really one of your favorites, bring the forum page up, click on and hold Todays active content, drag it up to the tab bar and release. Then when you wish to visit the site, just click on Todays active content, and you are there.

The pins in the cap hold the lower thrust washers in place, the crankcase is machined to hold the upper washers in place against the thrust surface of the crank. Once the cap is installed, the pinned lower washers keep the uppers from turning.

I am with Trent on this deal. When you get down to who is in charge of individual safety, it is always the operator. Any HOS directive that penalizes a driver for having the good since for taking a short nap to avoid rush hour traffic, is just wrong. I like the idea of hacking the devices. I always thought someone should come up with a device to counter police radar. Something that would set their car on fire would be appropriate. For all the hype about driver fatigue no one will ever address the stolen time issue, or who is stealing it.

Rev Racing can make any valve that you need. Give them a call.