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turckster

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Posts posted by turckster

  1. If the clutch brake is physically gone you can install a 2 pc clutch brake. There are many styles of 2pc clutch brakes to choose from. If the clutch brake is still there but the material is gone, you will have to cut it out. My advice if you have to cut it out is to use a sharp chisel and an air hammer, make sure that chisel stays sharp. The hardest part of a 1 pc clutch brake is the center ring, its a tough piece of metal. Try not to nick the throw out bearing and seal housing.

  2. post-12742-0-88415900-1350439147_thumb.j

    TRTXL107 Prior to Serial Number 9G9071

    1. Air Control Reference Locator

    2. Air Control Select Lever

    3. Gear Select Lever

    4. Quick Release Valve

    5. Exhaust

    6. Reverse Shift Cylinder

    7. Port No. 4

    8. Port No. 3

    9. Back-Up Switch (normally open)

    10. Amber Indicator Light (on in reverse)

    11. Pressure Reducing Valve (60 psi delivery)

    12. Port No. 2

    post-12742-0-63604900-1350439156_thumb.j

    TRTXL1070, Serial Number 8S6798 and later

    12. Hi/Direct Shift Cylinder

    13. Pressure Reducing Valve (70 psi delivery)

    14. Air Filter

    15. Air Supply

    16. Selectair Valve

    17. Exhaust

    A. Section A - A

    B. Piston Port

    C. Pressure

    D. Exhaust

    11. Port No. 1

    Hope this helps

    post-12742-0-62753600-1350439165_thumb.j

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  3. I don't think a whine noise is normal for any transmission. There may be some damage on the gear(s) like some slight pulling/galling of metal on the gear teeth. Most likely cause is the EP additive breakdown in the oil(not changing oil at recommended intervals) or overheating of the tranny. The noise will probably get worse with time depending on damage.

  4. Thanks for the welcome and replies.

    I've lived in the Lubbock area for over 20 years and have never visited the Buddy Holly Museum, did see his grave site though. Always wanted to go to the museum just never did.

    JTFomula-you've got some nice guitars there.

    Since there has been some shameless bragging:

    post-12742-0-66672000-1349750987_thumb.j

    • Like 1
  5. My suggestion would be to pull the tranny, set it up with the south side up and remove the rear case. It would be a good time to inspect the synchronizer and other components. Removing the rear case of a 13/18 speed in chassis is a chore with the proper tools and experience. To try to do this with homemade tools and never having done this, I think, would be a disaster. Just my $.02

  6. Welcome to the site. What kind of music do you play and what guitars do you own?

    I play mostly hard rock but try to dabble in everything. I have a few guitars, its kind of a weakness for me. Lets see.....An Epiphone LP Custom and Classic, Gibson 60's LP tribute w/p90's, 2 Fender Showmasters, Fender Strat and an OLP Ernie Ball Music Man JP signature guitar.

  7. Hello folks, just happened to find this forum and looks pretty cool. I'm a service tech for a Volvo/Mack dealer in Lubbock,Tx. Been twisting wrenches for almost 20 years. Holy cow how time flies! Enjoy riding my Harley FLHT when I have free time, have all sorts of hobbies/interests from amateur photography to playing guitars.

    Joined this forum because I enjoy helping people when I can.

    • Like 1
  8. So what do i need to do to change it over? can i use the jake heads or do i need to change them to

    From The Mack EIS web page about Jacobs Extarder engine brakes:

    "An E7 engine equipped with a Stealth™ Retarding System will have the following different, or additional, features:


    • Heavier inlet and exhaust valve springs

    • Heavier valve rotators

    • A different Jake slave piston setting

    • An Extarder unit

    • Air supply for Extarder control

    • Different electrical connections to provide for Extarder-only operation (with dash switch in LOW position), or Extarder plus Jake Brake on both heads (with dash switch in HIGH position)"

    I would assume you could remove the stealth exhaust brake/gate and not have to change anything else, other than plug an air line and adapt the exhaust. You may want to change the jake adjustment from .100" to .080-.085", It might help a little.

  9. I have a 2006 Mack Granite with 400hp. Recently the lightning bolt came up on the dash and the code that comes up is 1-4 which is the ambient air temperature sensor but the truck is not equipped with the sensor. Ever since the bolt has come up the truck is cutting power on freeway when going uphill.What do you guys think is wrong?

    From the EIS (Electronic Information Systems) page for a 1-4 code with AI engine:

    Failure Mode Identifier (FMI): 3 (Voltage High), 4 (Voltage Low), 5 (Current Low/Open)

    Parameter Identification (PID): P171

    Message Identification (MID): 128

    Circuit Description: The Ambient Air Temperature (AAT) Sensor is a thermistor. The resistance of the AAT Sensor changes inversely to the temperature of the surrounding air. When the outside air temperature is cold, the sensor resistance is high. As the temperature of the air increases, the sensor resistance decreases. The Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU) monitors the voltage drop across the AAT Sensor and uses the signal, along with other sensor signals, to calculate the fuel injection quantity and timing.

    Location: The Ambient Air Temperature (AAT) Sensor is located near the front of the chassis. The AAT Sensor may be mounted on the front crossmember, hood hinge, body panel, spring bracket, grill guard, or behind the front bumper, depending upon chassis model.

    Code Setting Conditions: The Electronic Malfunction Lamp (EML) will turn on and code 1-4 will set when the Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU) senses an AAT Sensor signal less than 0.15 volts or greater than 4.4 volts for 1 second. If the AAT Sensor voltage returns to between 0.15 volts and 4.4 volts for more than 1 second, the fault will become inactive.

    Normal AAT Sensor Parameters: The Ambient Air Temperature (AAT) Sensor has a resistance of 3482 ohms at 32°F (0°C) and 1485 ohms at 104°F (40°C).

  10. That would be pretty tough to do, there's a roll pin between two teeth in the drive and a low tooth in the celeron coupling on the pump that would not allow you to do this.!

    It can only go on one way!

    Ron

    Several times I have seen either the pin had fallen out or it had been sheered off. Seen some crazy stuff done to these trucks and engines. Should check the timing every time to cover your tush.

  11. The Mack Reman pump is built to spec, may come with a better warranty. Nice thing about the Mack Reman pump is the warranty is good all over the USA. Midwest most likely builds their own pumps, their pump guy probably calibrates the pumps to the high end of spec. I would let them diagnose the problem to be sure the pump is the problem, could be an injector, bad cam, burnt valve.... A Mack Reman pump could take a while as well, depends on availability.

  12. Its been a while since I've worked on an E-6 4v or E-7 but I think there is a difference of the two and they will not interchange. Something to do with the bridge adjuster rails are deeper on the E-6, if used on an E-7 it could unkey a valve. I could be wrong here, memory is kinda shady on this. If you're still interested I can find out for sure Monday.

  13. 1998 E-7 model? No external shut-off solenoid on it. Make sure the fuse/breaker is ok for v-mac. Have someone turn the ignition on while you're next to the inj. pump, with ignition on there should be a ":click" in the governor housing. If not, there might be an issue in the inj. pump harness connector. Disconnect the connector and check for burnt or discolored terminals. You should also check if there is fuel pressure while cranking the engine. Good luck.

  14. Sounds like the pump timing is off. Any time an injection pump has been removed it should be timed to the engine. The problem is, it sounds like some damage has been done. You stated the exhaust stack has turned blue., If it got hot enough to do that imagine the temps inside the cylinder. I have seen piston crowns melted within minutes on an engine with incorrect timing. Hopefully no damage has happened but I wouldn't hold my breath.

  15. This truck has almost 600000 miles on it and today i had to restart it twiced and it was about 65 outside. I would like to get this issue fixed before winter hits. What would be a good place to start. Is there away to check the timing solenoid, like advanceing it manually and starting it, i don't know i just don't want to spend alot of money for parts and they don't fix it, we have done this before, so any way to check the system and if i have it hooked up on a computer will it show the problem, i do not have a malfution light on.

    The best way to see whats going on is with a diagnostic tool hooked up, be it a laptop or Pro-Link. Without this you're just taking a guess. Some things you could check are the wiring to the timing actuator solenoid, if the solenoid itself is loose on the actuator body (should be no movement), condition of the oil line to the econo-vance-make sure it is free from obstruction. Check the adjustment of the TEM sensor(located on injection pump at the rear, normally where the throttle shaft would be-screw in sensor until it bottoms, tighten jam nut. These are basic checks, not much you can really do without a diagnostic tool. The best bet is a dealer but you might get lucky and find an independent shop that has a Pro-Link with a V-Mac 2 cartridge. Good luck.

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