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turckster

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Everything posted by turckster

  1. Or swapped with the cam position sensor. The engine ecu sees a high rpm while cranking and kicks the starter out. See this quite often when customers replace the engine wire harness.
  2. If you tow it, remember to remove the driveline or be prepared to buy a transmission.
  3. There are some engines that still had copper cups that were 2010 model engines. I've only seen a few though.
  4. Its not much different than others, a few things to keep in mind though. There were some years of the e-7(early 90's) that had 2 types of liner fire rings- a stepped ring and a flat ring. You can not mix these fire rings so make sure you replace with what the liner is set up for. Make sure that the head bolt threads and threads in the block are clean. Apply oil to the head bolt threads and washers. Before torquing the head bolts the heads must be aligned. Using a long straight edge, alight the exhaust side of the heads-the rear side of each head will pivot slightly. Any questions, just ask . Good luck
  5. With this fault there is a loss of communication with the nox sensor. As stated above, check the wiring carefully. Check for damage to the harness, particularly any points that have added equipment. We have a customer that owns many Mack trucks, they routed the pto pump supply hose down the right side of the cab and frame then under the trans. In that area the hose would rub on the wire harness going to the dpf assly causing similar faults. Most of those trucks that were rigged the same were rolling in one at a time with nox and dpf issues.
  6. You have 2 communication systems on most modern Macks- The high speed J1939 system and the slower j1587. The engine will run if one or the other is lost but will not run if both are gone. Sounds like you are loosing either power or ground to your engine ecu, therefore you get loss of communication. Everything is integrated into the chassis harness-ABS, communication(J1939 can1 and can2, J1587) and chassis wiring.
  7. Only 3 things will cause an engine shut down light to come on-1) coolant temp, 2) coolant level, 3) oil pressure. The reason for the tach jumping around may be an engine position sensor issue. The sensor is located below the starter on the driver side of the flywheel housing. Measure the resistance of the sensor, it should be between 200-300 ohms. Also measure resistance from pin A and pin B to ground, it should be an open circuit-any continuity then replace the sensor. If all looks good so far then check sensor adjustment, turn the sensor all the way in until it contacts the flywheel then back the sensor out one full turn. If you are still having issues then it could be an intermittent open circuit, short to ground/positive. Its hard to tell without knowing the fault FMI
  8. The new egr cooler kit should have come w/new o-rings for the coolant tubes. I replace all coolant tube o-rings when they are removed despite how they look. They are cheap and I take no chances. I personally like to coat the coolant o-rings w/Eaton/Fuller silicon o-ring lube to ease install, some others use dish wash soap, to each their own.
  9. Cracked head(s) or bad air compressor. Isolate the cooling system from the air compressor, run the engine and see if the system still builds pressure quickly. If it does the you have a cracked head or blown head gasket, most likely a cracked head(s). These heads do not tolerate excessive heat, if one is cracked our policy is to replace both heads. The obvious cracks will be between valves or between injector hole and valves, its the cracks you won't see that will get you-inside injector sleeve at the tip sealing area, inside or around a valve seat and so forth. With it building pressure so quick it should be obvious. A head gasket is a possibility as well but with overheating it is usually a cracked head.
  10. Normal operating temp should be around 180 deg., Under a load working, 200-210 deg sounds about right.
  11. Being a 2000 model its an E-Tech engine unless someone did some creative swapping. An E-Tech has 6 individual electronic injection pumps mounted to the block where as a regular E7 engine has an inline injection pump mounted to the right side. On the valve cover info tag both engines are referred to as E7 engines. Horsepower wise, the engine is capable of 460 hp. From a 350 to a 460 could require new turbo, injectors and engine ecu programming. It could possibly require more, not real sure. If the camshaft is powerleash compatible, a simple rocker shaft assly change, valve covers and some programmming.
  12. There isn't a relay for the head lamps on that early of an R model, seems there is just a 10 amp breaker. The headlamp switch is where I would look at since it sends voltage to the dimmer switch when turned on.
  13. The 7-5 fault is VECU input voltage, 9-9 fault is Aux. Input device #2, can't find 8-8 fault. I suspect its a voltage issue to the VECU--anything from a bad fuse, bad battery connection, ground issue or ground relay, possible bad VECU and so forth. Hard to tell what it might be without my hands on it. Good luck
  14. Its the Mack version of an engine brake, it adjusts the same as a regular exh. valve clearance- .024". When adjusting one of these you have to take out all the lash in the hyd. cylinder.
  15. The fault you get is most likely a 1-7 (low coolant). It's pushing coolant because of one of two reasons (or could be both)-blown head gasket/cracked head or blown air compressor head gasket. Sounds more like a blown head gasket/cracked head since its pushing coolant under a heavy load/pull. The best way to tell is to isolate the air compressor from the engine cooling system, run the engine and see if it still pushes coolant. If one head is cracked it would be best to replace both heads, in my opinion. Excessive heat is probably the reason this has happened.
  16. I'd make sure all ecu's software is up to date. Does everything look ok such as egr function, turbo vgt fuction, def pump operation, dpf diff. psi ok, etc. During the regen, do the temps and other specs look ok, after both regens the soot level should have been at least in the single digits. You may have to perform a scr crystal sublimination(sp?) to get the derate to clear.
  17. 2003 FLHTPI Police bike When I got it: ...and now:
  18. The leak is from the evaporator, you can remove the evaporator/heater core assly without removing the the whole hvac unit. Clamp the heater hoses and remove them from the core, recover the refrigerant and removed the lines and exp. valve. Slide the heater core/evaporator assly out together. There are a few clips that hold the two together. Replace the evaporator, expansion valve and dryer and any other components that need it. Make sure, when everything is assembled back together, that the exp. valve mount bolt is installed or this will happen again. The weight of the a/c lines will cause the exp. valve to move when the chassis is moving around, causing the copper tubing on the evap. to crack/break.
  19. What I've seen on CH. CX and similar models (same cab basically) is most systems that had an issue was because of poor heat exchange across the evaporator due to corrosion on the evaporator fins and/or a plugged/dirty heater core. Because of its design, the evap is always getting dirty, even with a pre-filter it doesn't seem to help much. I kinda harp on that (air flow through the evap) because I see it so much. One of 2 things is happening, either the expansion valve is allowing slightly too much refrigerant through the evap. and its not able to absorb the heat inside the cab fast enough OR due to lack of good heat exchange (air flow or corrosion). When I check a/c system vent temps it is always at high speed, engine at 1000 rpm and on recirculate. Once the cab begins to cool down then you can turn down the blower motor speed. On road tests the vent temps usually were around the mid to upper 40's due to the ram air through the condenser and higher rpm. During the transition from R-12 to 1134a there were some CH models that vent temps between 50-55 was as good as it got. Your system should have vent temps in the mid to upper 40's on the road
  20. Without gauges being hooked up and seeing what the pressures are while running its hard to tell whats going on. Generally, I like to see less than 30 psi on the low side and below 250 psi on the high side at an idle or slightly above-stationary. You want the engine fan to pull some air across the condenser while at or above idle to keep the high side under control-the more the better. If the low side is 35+ psi all the time then the expansion valve could be faulty. Air flow through the evaporator is crucial-make sure the evap. inlet side is clean and corrosion free. Make sure the compressor isn't cycling too often-either because excessive high side pressures (325-350+ psi), extremely low side pressure(less than 10 psi) or because of a faulty thermostatic switch. Here in west Texas, most truck a/c vent temps average 48-52 deg on a 95deg + day, using recirculate instead of fresh air. The system capacity for day cab is 3 lbs 134a and 3.5 lbs for sleeper cabs. 134a is less forgiving than r-12 on system capacities so make sure you use the correct amount. If you open the system then replace the dryer--no ifs, ands, or butts--they are cheap ($20 or less)-I've seen way too many desiccant bags contaminate a/c systems.
  21. The air compressor may be getting too hot due to lack of coolant flow. Is the coolant line at the rear of the compressor head routed to the lower right side of the block(below the #6 eup pump)? If so, the line is most likely packed full of casting sand-an issue with the e-tech engines. There is a service bulletin to re-rout the rear coolant line to the rear of the coolant manifold.
  22. Sounds like worn high range clutches/sliding clutch teeth. Its can be caused by incorrect range pre-select technique, worn/damaged range interlock pin, driveline angle/balance issue, incorrect rear susp. ride height, etc. Replacement of the synchronizer is possible in chassis but it is quite a job. Without the correct tools, pulling the trans and replacing the assly out of chassis would be your best option OR letting a dealer replace the assly. If you remove the rear shift lid, the range fork is right there. Check it for being loose which is common. Inspect the high range clutches(high range to the front , low range at rear). The clutches for high range will most likely look black and have a lot of play. You can pry the sliding clutch back and inspect the range engagement teeth, more than likely they will be damaged and require replacement There are constant parts updates with these transmissions and service updates. If you decide to do the work yourself, make sure you install and have the correct current parts. The range fork pinch bolt and output yoke bolts are replaced every time--never reuse those bolts. Make sure you torque the range pinch bolt at least 45-50 ft/lbs. Replace all range/spliter o-rings, lube those o-rings with Eaton/Fuller O-ring silicon lube (this stuff can be used for bunches of other things too). They make a synchronizer complete kit and a rebuild kit, use the rebuild kit unless the synchro housing has damage or pin bores have excessive wear. I wouldn't cut corners on this repair because it will be expensive the first time. good luck
  23. Age has nothing to do with it nowadays. There is a lot of technology in these trucks, sometimes I think a little too much. I think the manufacturers push the technology out too soon without proper real world R&D. For example, I've seen bunches of these fan clutches fail on fairly new chassis, Volvo and Mack.
  24. I would make sure there is good air flow through the radiator and the fan clutch is engaging. Most common fan clutch I see is the electronic viscous fan. There are two types of electronic fans: the Behr and Borg/Warner fan clutches. The Borg/Warner is the most common used in the past few years. To test the B/W fan simply unplug the fan wire harness connector, start the engine and within 30 seconds the fan should fully engage. If it doesn't then there is the problem. To test the Behr, diagnostic software is needed. To tell the difference between the two fans, the Behr is about 12" in diameter (give or take) while the B/W is about twice the diameter. Another possible reason is the thermostat hanging in the closed position, I've seen that a few times here and there. By what you describe, though, it sounds like a fan clutch issue.
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