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turckster

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Everything posted by turckster

  1. There are 3 ports on the air governor- exhaust, signal and unloader. The signal line is from the wet tank, its the air tank fed directly from the air dryer. When the pressure in the wet tank reaches 120 psi the air governor sends an air signal to the unloader port which goes to the air compressor head and dryer. If air continues to build to 150+ psi then either the signal line from the wet tank is plugged or the air governor is bad. On the older R models the signal/unloader lines were usually stratoflex line. It could be coming apart inside the line. To test the air governor install a test gauge inline or into one of the "Signal" ports on the air governor (gauge should go up to at least 150 psi). If the test air gauge is not showing the same value as your dash air gauges then the line is plugged from the wet tank. If the air psi is the same as the dash gauges move the test gauge inline or into a "unloader" port on the air governor. There should be no air psi on this line until at least 120 psi (depends where the air governor is set). Once that pressure has been reached then there should be air pressure (same as system psi). If this never happens then you have a bad air governor. Make sure there is no oil or water in the signal line, That can destroy an air governor in no time
  2. Broken rollers on the lifters. They are made of a ceramic material. Also would check the h-rings- they are the alignment rings for the roller lifters. There could be other damage as well in the valvetrain, I would inspect all components.
  3. VJ2-9 and 41-A-0.8 are for PTO #1 switch. I believe the wrong connector is plugged into the speedo sensor. Find the wires labeled VJ2-11 and VJ2-12 on top of the trans and plug it into the speedo sensor. The speedo may be working because it is getting its reading from the ABS module. The ABS module gets its speed reading from the right front steer axle sensor.
  4. Are you sure the turbo oil return is the issue? I had overhauled a Cummins M11, the customer returned within a week with the right side of the engine covered in oil. Under a load and a hard pull it would push the dipstick out of the tube and push engine oil out of the dipstick tube. Eventually found the valve guides were moving up/down with the valves causing boost to come into the crankcase. It was a reman Cummins head BTW. I have never seen turbo seals cause what you are experiencing, not saying it hasn't happened, just never seen it. I've seen many things cause excessive crankcase pressure but not bad turbo seals, especially seeing the same issue with multiple turbos. I'd look for excessively worn guides, cylinders, bad/down cylinder, etc.
  5. The wires go directly to the VECU. The speedometer gets its info from the VECU. After looking at the diagram again I realize I mislead you. You should be measuring pins VJ2-11 and VJ2-12 for speedo sensor resistance and these pins vs all others to make sure there are no shorts. Sorry about that, blond moment I guess.
  6. The PSID:232 is the J1939 can2 datalink. All the components on that datalink are faulting. Check the EECU connectors for oil contamination, if so then clean it out. Check the VGT connectors for fretting--a powdery type residue that looks like rust. Check chassis wiring to and around the NOX sensor(s) for damage to the J1939 CAN2 wires (yellow and green twisted wires). Make sure that fuses 41 and 46 are ok for pre-SCR systems. The FMI:2 is data erratic and FMI:9 is data absent, if the VGT harness connector shows signs of fretting then the connector pins need to be replaced. A common problem area is at the chassis to DPF harness connector. They are sometimes tied to the frame mount below the DPF and the wires can vibrate and break.
  7. I would begin by removing the passenger side kick panel. It houses the VECU and ABS modules. The FMI:4 is low voltage or short to ground, The kick plate is metal and the harness wires are notorious for rubbing/chaffing on the cover. I would check the wires and make sure everything looks ok there. If all looks good then you need to measure the resistance between pins VJ2-11-1.0 and VJ2-10-1.0. These are on the Vj2 connector on the VECU, the wires are labeled and the VECU has VJ1, VJ2 and so forth labelled on the cover next to the connectors. The resistance of the circuit should be nearly the same as the sensor-approx 140-180 ohms. Most that I've measured were around 160-170 ohms. If that checks out ok then measure pins VJ2-10 and VJ2-11 against all other pins on the VECU including ground, all should be open circuits. If you find continuity in a circuit outside the two for the sensor then you have a short to that circuit. Now the fun begins....finding the short. Most likely its shorted to ground somewhere. My guess would be the VECU/ABS cover or on top of the transmission somewhere. I'll post a picture of the wiring diagram for the sensor circuit, its crude but it works:
  8. The E-7 engine came in a mechanical inj. pump version and in electronic versions: VMAC1 and VMAC2. The engine evolved into a unit pump type engine and became the ETECH engine, The injectors had a fuel return line for excessive fuel that wasn't used but with tighter emissions it required a more precise fuel delivery, thats where the CCR injectos/EUP's came in--still on the ETECH engine. Eventually the emissions became even stricter and the ETECH evolved into the ASET series engines-same design but now with egr. There are 2 type aset engines, the AI and the AC. The AC engines have an egr valve, cooler and other goodies-designed mostly for highway. The AI has a special ground camshaft that allows exh. fumes from combustion to fall back into the cylinder, this engine was mainly designed for work/off road. There is a lot more to this but that is about the jest of it.
  9. If you still have an active fault for the speedo then it will derate HP and speed.
  10. With a bad antenna there should at least be static. I don't think diagnostic capabilities on the radios started until 2010 or so. All the year models you listed should have just pain ol everyday type radios. I would measure resistance of the speakers from the harness connector, they should be at least 4 ohms. Open or high resistance tells me bad speakers or damaged wire(s)
  11. My first thought is worn o-rings in the purge valve. Sounds like the purge valve is hanging open, a renew/rebuild kit would most likely solve that issue.
  12. On your 2004 its just a plain jane radio. You should have a 12v ignition source, battery voltage and a ground with either 2 or 4 speakers depending on the configuration. The newer truck radios have diagnostic capabilities so they are connected in the vehicle data system (j1939 hi speed datalink and the slower 1587 dtatlink). The newer radios are VIN specific so swapping one of them to another chassis would create fault codes.
  13. As stated previously, the Bendix AD9 (reman) is a cheap alternative and they are good dryers. Another good dryer is the Bendix ADIP, it costs a little more than the AD9 but it has a spin on replacement desiccant filter. Much easier to replace than disassembling to replace a descant filter like on the AD9.
  14. The 2007 emission models (2007 to 2009) was the introduction of the dpf system (Diesel Particulate Filter). The 2010 emission models was the introduction of the SCR system (Selective Catalytic Reduction) with Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF). The 2007 emission engines had issues with injectors and cups but those issues seem to have been remedied with the stainless steel conical injector cups and conical injectors. The 2010 emission engines had problems with injectors as well but it was because of a coating used on the injector needle valve. Most of the injectors with that issue have been replaced by now. Your friend may have been thinking about or referring to the double idler gear failures. I think, but not sure, that problem had been solved for engines manufactured after 2012. All engines from both 2007 and 2010 emissions perform regens, catalyzed or non catalyzed. The purpose of the SCR system is to lower NOx (Nitrogen Oxide)
  15. Cracking in the areas described is common with excessive coolant temps. 210-215 degrees is max coolant temp for these engines. Another thing to look for before installing reman heads is make sure you have the correct fire rings for the type liners. Some early e-7 engines had stepped type fire rings for the liners. Later they went to flat type fire rings. If the engine had been overhauled any time then they would have installed the newer type liners but, it's better to be safe than sorry. I'll try to find the service bullitin about the two type liners and post it if you're interested.
  16. SB-221-037.pdf From the MACK EIS Website: Failure Mode Identifier (FMI): 2 (Data Erratic/Incorrect) or 8 (Abnormal Frequency) Parameter Identification (PID): S21 Message Identification (MID): 128 Circuit Description: The Engine Position (EP) Sensor is an inductive device. As the camshaft turns, the tip of the Engine Position (EP) Sensor senses the seven holes in the camshaft drive gear and sends a series of voltage pulses to the Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU). The frequency of the pulses is translated into engine speed and position by the EECU. The EECU uses this information along with the information from Engine Speed/Timing (RPM/TDC) Sensor to synchronize fuel injection. Location: The Engine Position (EP) Sensor is located on the lower right front of the engine, in the timing gear cover. Code Setting Conditions: If the Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU) senses a significant difference between the engine speed calculated from the Engine Position (EP) Sensor signal and the engine speed calculated from the Engine Speed/Timing (RPM/TDC) Sensor for 2 seconds, the EECU will turn on the Electronic Malfunction Light, and code 3-4 will set. If the signals return to normal for 2 seconds, the code will become inactive. The engine must be running to set an active Engine Position (EP) Sensor fault code. Electrical problems can cause this fault to be generated, and electrical diagnostics are provided in this section. Mechanical problems can also cause temporary or permanent speed signal errors. After all electrical possibilities have been ruled out, check mechanical conditions that could cause vibration or signal errors. Such conditions include but are not limited to: Faulty Engine Vibration Damper Contaminated sensor tips Contaminated Cam Gear face Excessive Camshaft end play Improperly adjusted sensor Improperly balanced engine components Faulty engine timing cover Improper Camshaft-to-Crankshaft timing Refer to Service bulletin SB-221-037 for procedures to diagnose mechanical causes of code 3-4. Before replacing the engine timing cover in an attempt to rectify an intermittent code 3-4, install the Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU) in another truck built to similar specifications. Road test the other truck and check for code 3-4. If code 3-4 logs in the EECU while installed in the second truck, replace the EECU with a new one and retest the system. Service Bulletin SB-221 037 has troubleshooting tips for an intermittent 3-4 fault (engine position sensor)
  17. E-tech flywheel housing bolt torque: 170 ft/lbs. I would start from the center bolts and work out from there. We use "Right Stuff" black silicon on flywheel to block surfaces. It is tough silicon and it sets fast, works great.
  18. If it is an electronic engine (vmac1&2) I would say the TEM sensor may be bad. Low fuel pressure and timing come to mind as well. It all depends on the color of smoke. A light blue haze and I would say its burning oil. White smoke and it is either a timing issue or low fuel pressure. Black smoke and its excessive fuel or lack of air.
  19. When I clean a 7th injector I use Berrymans B12 cleaner (spray) and a soft bristle brush to clean the injector. Then I flow clean the 7th injector using a bottle w/#4 strataflex line with an air charge port(a/c system cleaner bottles). I fill the bottle about a 1/4 with Berrymans B12 cleaner, pressure the bottle, use Pro Tech Tool to activate the 7th injector and watch the spray pattern. Reset the 7th injector adaptive factor so the eecu knows it has been cleaned, that way it will have proper delivery when performing a regen. If it has an air purge system then make sure it is working or that would cause the 7th injector to soot over quicker than usual. It should have some air pressure with the key on. If not, the air regulator and on/off solenoid is usually located at the air dryer. Voltage is supplied to the solenoid by the air dryer purge heater - there is a jumper harness that connects to the purge valve heater and runs over to the solenoid valve.
  20. E-6 and E-7 cams take 2 people to remove without the cam removal tool. One person below with a pry bar (to support the rear of the cam) and the other to slowly pull it out. On an e-tech engine the cam weighs about 90 lbs (with gear) so having the removal tool is almost a must. It can be done like the others but it is a pain. Usually if a cam will not budge then a lifter somewhere is still too low.
  21. On clutches with frozen adjuster rings I soak the ring best I can with wd-40. Spray that stuff into every open hole I can while barring the engine over. I'll start the engine and run it for a short time while pressing the clutch pedal up/down. Usually that will break them loose. If not, I'll try an air hammer to try to move the ring. If none of that will loosen the ring then a new clutch is the only remedy. There are a ton of answers on how to adjust a clutch. The way I was taught was by a Spicer rep. The most critical setting on a clutch adjustment is the gap between the throw out bearing and clutch brake. A 1/2" is preferred but no more than 9/16". That is the adjustment you make with the adjuster ring. Next critical adjustment is the clutch brake (external linkage adjustment), when the clutch brake makes contact with the throw out bearing there should be approximately 1/2" clearance (aprox. finger thick) between the clutch pedal and the pedal stop. If both of these dimensions are correct then the free travel should be almost spot on. That is taking into account that everything is in good shape. Make sure before making a clutch adjustment that there is some pedal free travel.
  22. 17-31 psi @ full engine load is the spec for this engine.
  23. Unplug the a/c compressor and check for voltage to it (12v). If there is then measure the resistance of the a/c compressor clutch. It should be between 3-5 ohms. Anything less and the clutch is shorted internally which would cause the control panel to cut voltage to the a/c comp. If there is no or less than battery voltage then somewhere between the compressor connector and the binary switch (top of the dryer) there is an issue with that circuit. This is assuming the binary switch is working properly and there is 12v on both sides of the switch and the system has a full charge. Also, make sure the binary switch connector pins are in good shape, I've seen the pins corrode or have a bad connection and cause low/no voltage to the a/c comp.
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