turckster

You should not be loosing power on a vmac 3 with a 4-2 fault which is fan clutch output. On v-mac2 the fault is the road speed sensor. That would cause a loss of power while active. V-mac 3 is the e-tech engine w/individual unit pumps while v-mac 2 is an e-7 engine with an inline injection pump.

I use a snap-on bent handle fine tooth ratchet. It works perfect for getting to the back bolts on mp7 & 8 engines.

Been there as well, not fun.

Pull the egr tubing off between the egr mixer and venturi, unplug the egr valve. While at an idle there should be little if any flow from the egr valve. With your hand over the venturi outlet, you should not feel any pressure.

The fault is for the wheel speed sensor on the right steer axle. The FMI:2 means open or shorted. I've attached a PDF on Bendix ABS diagnostics for standard/premium models, it does not include enhanced models. By the way, all Bendix ABS literature is free including their basic diagnostic software. Bendix® EC-60™ ABS ATC Controllers.pdf

Year and model?

Here is a PDF of the Operator's Handbook for 2010+ CXU models. This might help Operators Handbook CXU 2010.pdf

The Mack reman engines come with a 2 year unlimited mileage warranty. I would think if the quality was crap then the warranty would be much shorter. I've installed and overhauled more Mack engines than you could shake a stick at and have experienced very few issues with remack products. If we did have a problem then the remack center was all over it to make sure the customer was taken care of. The majority of issues we have seen is when customers use reman products from other sources. I don't think there is a problem with quality control at the Mack reman center. If there was I think we would be seeing a lot more failures. As far as with the OP, he should not have any problems because it is well within the warranty period, unless the failure was determined to be due to operator error.

All mack grey engines take a 10 lb cap unless it is an aset ac engine, it has a 16 lb cap with the metal upper coolant tank.

On Vmac 1&2 a 2-4 blink code is Intake Manifold Air Temp. Sensor On Vmac 3 the 2-4 blink code is Transmission Oil Temp.

Fuse. Always check the easiest thing first.

There are two communication systems in your truck- the high speed j1939 system and the low speed j1587. Look at it as J1939 is cable internet and j1587 is dial-up. If you loose the j1939 to one of the ecu's--either the engine ecu or the vehicle ecu, you will get this fault. If you loose both J1939 and J1587 then the engine will not start. This is a PDF of the diagnostic flow chart for a 6-4 fault: 6-4 diagnostic flow chart.pdf

It sounds like it could be a programming flaw. There were a bunch of engines similar to what you have with the same symptoms. Have your local Mack dealership contact Mack Technical Support to see if there is a program/download for your engine for your issue. I've programmed too many chassis to count that had the exact same symptoms you describe.

I had read an article in Consumer Reports some time ago that was about synthetic vs dino oils. In a nut shell, the synthetics did perform better than regular oils.........in extreme temperatures/environments . The current blend of conventional oils is superior to oils just 5-10 years ago and that article was 10+ years ago. At that time they had run the test on 100 NY cabs with a certain number with conventional and some with synthetics. Oil changes happened at 3000, 5000 and 10,000 miles. At the end of a year the engines were torn apart and components were measured. They could not see a big difference between all the engines in measurements from synthetic to conventional oils. Their conclusion was that synthetics do have an advantage in extreme temperatures/environments but for the typical everyday application it was to no advantage to use synthetics. It's all a matter of peronal preference, you take care of your engine and it will take care of you. Personally, I won't waste my money on synthetic oil unless the OEM requires it. Transmissions and rear ends are a different story, they fall under extreme environments. BTW, Consumer Reports also did tests on the miracle oils vs regular oils, you know, the miracle add to oils that were supposed to keep your engine running even if they ran out of oil. You've seen the commercials. They would add the miracle oil to an engine and run it for quite some time. They would drain the oil on both test vehicles (miracle oil engine and regular oil engine), drive both vehicles on the tet track. Both vehicle engines failed at about 100 yards within 10 ft of each other. Same results despite what miracle oil they used. Sorry for the long post, bored

Signs of leaking oil, dings or dents, any physical damage to the balancer.

Here is a PDF for the diagnostic flow chart for a 6-4 fault: 6-4 diagnostic flow chart.pdf

Depends on the type of oil pan you have. On the regular pan the system total capacity is 10 gallons/40 qts (38L)--filters and oil pan. The deep pan system total capacity is 14 gallons/56 qts (53L).

On the mechanical engine the oil psi gauge is a mechanical gauge. There should be a #4 stratoflex line from the oil filter base through the cab to the gauge. It may run into a block located behind the speedo/tach for the kysor alarmstat sender then from there to the gauge.

The 6-4 fault is j1939 serial data line. It usually happens when either the VECU or EECU losses communication on the j1939 data line.

To find out what the fault is while it is active, push the set/resume switch up until the fault light goes out (cruise switch in the off position). It should flash on/off in two sets. That will help a lot in trying to figure out what is going on here.

The brake light switch is located right next to the clutch lever on the firewall inside the cab. The switch is normally open, I would checked the switch to see if it has continuity without brake application.

The purpose of the kit is to make sure that the camshaft is exactly in time since it is so easy to be off by one tooth. The proper procedure is to replace a cam on a MP engine is to removed the rear upper cover, remove the cam vibration dampener and drive gear. The kit has the tools to check camshaft alignment to be sure it is in proper time plus to measure camshaft gear backlash. You can replace a camshaft without using that tool by simply removing the cam bearing upper caps, unbolting the cam from the gear/dampener, sliding the cam towards the front of the engine and lifting it out. Reverse to install but you have to be careful to not move the cam gear too much. You don't want to have the gear jump a tooth out of time. Before doing any of this, make sure the engine is set at zero on the flywheel and the cam TDC mark is between the #1 cam cap marks. When replacing a cam the TDC mark should be in the same place from old to new. If the gear were to jump out of time, you would have to remove the back upper cover. Make sure the engine was set on zero at the flywheel, install the cam where the TDC mark was between the #1 cap marks, installed the drive gear. There is timing marks on the cam gear and an alignment hole in the head (this is where the special alignment tool would go if you had the kit). As long as the timing marks are between the hole then chances are you're ok with the timing. If the cam gear were a tooth off, lets say advanced, usually the engine runs fine, but will eventually set a cam position fault. Same with a tooth off but retarded, the engine will be slightly sluggish but run ok none the less, eventually it will get a cam position fault as well. Sometimes it could take as long as several months for a fault to set.

Warranty wise, on the etech engines w/ceramic lifters only the failed lifters were to be replaced, all others were reusable. It could be the same for steel roller lifters as well, I don't remember. Years ago when the etech cams first started failing we replaced all lifters but those were the steel roller type and everything came in complete kits including cam bearings. On the e-7 cams you had to replace all the lifters because the wear pattern between lifter/lobe. When we replace camshafts out of warranty on etech engines we prefer to replace all lifters, with customer approval. The warranty criteria on mp engines is replacement of damaged components only, if you can catch your fingernail on what looks like excessive wear on a rocker arm roller then it should be replaced as well. We use that same criteria on out of warranty engines as well. The only time I would replace all the exhaust rocker arms is if they were an old design that has been phased out.

If it were warranty then only the damaged components would be replaced (camshaft and bad rocker arm) including oil and filters. Most of the metal will be in the trough below the damaged rocker/cam journal. I would make sure it is cleaned out. Other than that, if it were mine I would reuse as much as possible. Inspect all the rocker arm rollers, if you can catch your finger nail on a mark/spot then it should be replaced. Inspect the camshaft journals, if there is a questionable spot on the journal that you can catch you fingernail on but the rocker arm roller that rode on that journal appears to be damage free I would replace the rocker arm anyway to be safe. As I said earlier, most of the metal from the damage is caught in the oil trough below the damaged journal(s). Some metal may make it to the oil pan but rarely, if ever, have we had to check main bearings due to a camshaft failure. Just my $.02

Right next to the fuel hand primer pump is a small plastic cap/plug. Is it covered in wet fuel? If you use the hand primer pump does fuel leak out around the cap/plug? If so the o-ring is bad under the cap/plug allowing fuel to return. The cap/plug is replaceable and that should fix the hard to start issue. The air filter issue could be a bad fuse, bad air filter minder or it could be unplugged.