turckster

If you're filling a cylinder with coolant it's not from a bad head gasket. A leaking head gasket will either dump coolant outside or inside an engine. To get into a cylinder the coolant would have to get past a fire ring. Most likely cause is cracked head or, possibly but most likely not, a cylinder liner. You would have seen the scoring with the head off. Now, I'm not saying the liner may not be the cause, just seen more cracked heads than liners. They don't tolerate heat so well. If one head is cracked it would be best to replace both.

Could be, my memory is a little fuzzy. Seems like there were a few buzzing around. I remember going to engine school in Dallas right before the engines came out in full force. They had an E-Tech in there and a camshaft was on the table, we all stood there looking at it. The instructor told us to take a good look at that cam because it would be the last time we would see one 'cause it was the answer to Mack's cam problems. Yeah right

It should be an E7, not an e-tech engine being its a 1997 CH. The e-tech didn't come out until '98.

The only way to replace a lifter on an etech engine is to remove the camshaft. The lifters will have to be supported by magnetic tipped rods slightly longer than the pushtubes. There is a special tool that clips onto the rear of the cam to aid in removal. The cam weighs about 90 lbs with the gear. Are you replacing the lifter due to damage? Better take a good look at the cam lobe, it could be damaged as well.

There is only one gasket for the e-7 engine, there are 2 types of fire rings for this engine though. One is flat and the other, which is no longer used, is stepped. Given the year it would most likely have the newer style flat fire ring. To be honest, if one gasket is leaking, the other may not be far behind. Since you're already there, I would replace both head gaskets. It would a hair pulling event if you spent the time to replace one head gasket only to have to rip it apart again to do the other. It's an easy job, make sure that you use a straight edge on exhaust side to make sure the heads are lined up. Use a torque wrench on all critical fasteners and you should be ok. Good luck.

Chasing down vibrations can be a pain in the tush. The front dampener is a viscous type, any dings, dents or oil leakage and its time to replace it. If it looks ok, try removing the belts and running the engine. If the vibration is still there I would look at the clutch. Mark/index the clutch, unbolt the pressure plate and slide it back slightly. If the vibration disappears bolt the clutch back up but 180deg opposite of mark/index. If the vibration comes back after bolting the clutch up you may have to try different positions. These engines do have a vibration in that rpm, some worse than others. This is something that may never disappear.I don't recall the e-7 engines pushing alot of oil to the top end, as long as there is no excessive wear I'd run it till she falls apart.

Replacing clutch brakes can be a chore, I feel your pain. On clutch adjustments, the 1/2" clearance between the clutch brake and t/o bearing is the most important adjustment. After that the clutch brake crush should be set. There should be approx 1/2" gap between floor/stop and pedal when t/o bearing contacts clutch brake. Once these 2 settings are adjusted the free travel should be 1 1/2-2".

When the engine is at operating temp (180 deg +) the upper radiator hose should be hot. If not, the thermostat is most likely the problem. If it is and the lower hose is cold the problem is in the radiator. A plugged water filter should not cause overheat problems. Kinda sounds like a bad thermostat. I would flush the cooling system as well. Check the radiator cap while your at it.

The engine should have a no load rpm of 2100 rpm, if not, it needs to be set there. You can set it yourself, should be an adjustable screw with a jam nut on it. The slightest movement can make a difference in rpm so you won't have to move it much. BTW, it sounds like your mph is limited by gear ratios. You wont get much more speed from this truck without changing rear end ratios.

You need to make sure you are getting full throttle. Have someone push the throttle all the way to the floor, the throttle lever on the pump should hit the stop and slightly break over (spring loaded lever). If not, adjust linkage accordingly.You should not have to adjust the pump high idle setting, more times than not its usually the linkage due to wear.

You need to find the source of the leak first and fix it. The thermostat is in the housing under the upper radiator hose, fairly easy to replace. The hardest part would be replacing the t-stat seal. If you buy the t-stat from the dealer you might be able to get them to replace it for you. The heads on these engines do not tolerate excessive heat, hopefully there is no damage.

Failure Mode Identifier (FMI): 0 (Valid High), 3 (Voltage High/Open), 4 (Voltage Low), 5 (Current Low/Open), 9 (Data Absent) Parameter Identification (PID): P412 Message Identification (MID): 128 Circuit Description: The EGR Mass Flow Sensor consists of an exhaust gas temperature probe, a heater probe, and a dedicated electronic processor. The EGR Electronic Control Unit (EGR ECU) supplies the heater probe with a 12 volt power source. The EGR ECU then monitors the amount of current required to maintain the heater probe at 752°F. The EGR ECU also monitors the exhaust gas temperature signal from the temperature probe and uses this signal and the heater current signal to calculate EGR flow. The EGR ECU transmits error messages and EGR Mass Flow data to the Engine Management System (EMS) Module over the J1939 serial data lines. Location: The EGR temperature probe and heater probe are located in the EGR tube between the EGR cooler and the intake manifold. The EGR Mass Flow Sensor assembly is supplied from the manufacturer as a single calibrated unit. The components of the sensor are not to be replaced individually. Code Setting Conditions: Code PID 412 will set with FMI 0 if the EGR ECU detects the exhaust gas temperature exceeds 365°F (185°C) for 30 minutes, 410°F (210°C) for 25 seconds or 455°F (235°C) for 3 seconds. Code PID 412 will set with FMI 3 if the EGR ECU detects a short circuit to voltage in the exhaust gas temperature probe circuit. Code PID 412 will set with FMI 4 if the EGR ECU detects a short circuit to ground in the exhaust gas temperature probe circuit. Code PID 412 will set with FMI 5 if the EGR ECU detects an open in the exhaust gas temperature probe circuit. Code PID 412 will set with FMI 9 if the EGR ECU signal is missing on the J1939 serial data lines. Judging by your description of the problem, it might have an FMI:0--data valid but high. What that means is the egr cooler is most likely plugged. When under a hard pull the egr temp gets too high and the engine ecu starts to cut back power. The egr cooler needs to be removed and cleaned.

I've replaced a few def pump harnesses because of an open in the harness. The harness were poorly secured.

A lengthy road test/back into service or performing up to 2 consecutive regens should clear the fault. The acm is evaluating info sent by the nox sensors and once everything looks good it clears the fault. The loss of power to the def pump code could be corrosion on harness pins or short/open in def pump harness, we've had to replace a few def pump harnesses because of this.

Most likely the problem is in the injection pump's governor, bushings worn out on the flyweights or something like that, If memory serves me correct, I think the governor housing can be removed and repaired on the bench.

If you think the EGR cooler is leaking, slide back the egr cooler outlet hose. If its wet inside then it could be your problem. If not, problem could be one or both of the heads could have a crack. The heads on these engines do not like excessive heat, that includes the air compressor head as well. Is the engine pushing coolant out the overflow tank or are you loosing coolant with no obvious signs of leakage? If its pushing coolant, I would lean towards a cracked cyl.head(s) or air compressor head. If the egr cooler outlet is dry, most likely cyl. head(s).

Spec is at idle hot (600 rpm) 10-30 psi, governed speed 37-69 psi

We have a guy in our shop that does these in 4-6 hours. As long as he works here I have nothing to worry about because there is no way I can do them in that time.

Not trying to start a fight here but, I don't see what the problem is with the Spicer reman clutch. In the almost 20 years I've twisted wrenches for the same dealership, we have always installed reman clutches unless otherwise requested. The majority of our customer base is oil field and clutches usually fail because of lack of maintenance- new or reman. If the job is done right and the clutch is maintained it should give many years of trouble free service. Just my $.02

The top fuse panel(center dash on top -under cover) has terminals for battery, ignition, ground etc.

From Mack Information System: Blink code 6-4: J1939 serial data line Failure Mode Identifier FMI: 8 (Abnormal) Parameter Identification: S231 Message Identification MID: 128 (Abnormal), 142 (Abnormal) Circuit Description: The V-MAC III system uses the J1939 data line to control communication between the Vehicle Electronic Control Unit (VECU), Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU), Anti-lock Brake System Control Unit, Allison Transmission Control Unit, and accessory systems, depending on vehicle model and option content. The J1939 data line is an expandable data bus, allowing the addition of accessory control modules (Collision Avoidance, Traction Control, etc.) to be connected to the circuit. The J1939 data line is comprised of two circuits; the L circuit and the H circuit. The two wires are twisted together to prevent outside electrical noise from interfering with the data being carried by the L and H circuits. The V-MAC III system is designed to allow continued engine operation with the loss of the J1939 data line signal as long as the J1587 data line is still operational. Code Setting Conditions: If either the Vehicle Electronic Control Unit (VECU) or the Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU) loses communication on the J1939 data line for more than one half second, code 6-4 will set and the Electronic Malfunction Lamp (EML) will turn on. The fault will become inactive if communication resumes for at least on half second. When code 6-4 is active, engine speed will default to 900 RPM. If communication is lost on both the J1587 and J1939 data lines the engine will not run. Fault code 6-4 will set for some mismatches of VECU and EECU software levels. Blink code 6-4 will also set while the VECU is in the programming mode for Customer Data, Fleet Data, or Mack Data. This code setting condition is normal and the code will become inactive after the ignition key is cycled. Fault code 6-4 may log, without illuminating the Electronic Malfunction Lamp (EML), on vehicles equipped with Eaton/Bosch ABS/ATC module # 7MN54M2. This nuisance code will not affect the performance of the vehicle. When a vehicle equipped with this ABS/ATC module is being diagnosed for an inactive code 6-4, contact Mack Trucks Service Engineering. Additional Symptoms: The engine will not start, if communication is lost on both the J1587 and J1939 data lines. If communication is lost on just the J1939 line, the engine will only run at 900 RPM. Blink code 9-2: Power reset w/o key switch Failure Mode Identifier (FMI): 4 (Special Instructions) Parameter Identification (PID): S254 Message Identification (MID): 128/142 Circuit Description: Switched power is supplied to the Vehicle Electronic Control Unit (VECU) through connector J3, pin 17. The VECU ground is provided at connector J3, pin 18. Switched power is supplied to the Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU) through connector J2, pins 10, 22, and 41. The EECU ground is provided through connector J2, pins 12, 24, and 43. Code Setting Conditions: The Electronic Malfunction Lamp (EML) will illuminate and code 9-2 will set with MID 142 if the Vehicle Electronic Control Unit (VECU) senses a loss of battery power without the key switch being turned off. The Electronic Malfunction Lamp (EML) will illuminate and code 9-2 will set with MID 128 if the Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU) senses a loss of switched power without the key switch being turned off. Code 9-2 generally indicates a major vehicle power failure. If code 9-2 is logged, check the following components for corrosion, loose terminals, and/or poor connections: Batteries Starter Motor Engine Ground Ground Circuit Breaker Left and Right Dashboard Grounds Power Relays Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU) Fuse or Circuit Breaker Connections (MID 128) Engine Power Distribution Module (EPDM) Connectors (MID 128) Engine-to-Transmission Transition Connector (MID 128) Vehicle Electronic Control Unit (VECU) Fuse or Circuit Breaker Connections (MID 142) Clean, repair or replace as necessary. To clear code 9-2, turn the key switch ON, turn the key switch OFF for 6 seconds, then turn the key switch back ON. The code will clear in several seconds. The 9-2 code may be your problem, momentary loss of power would cause loss of communication with one ecu. Make sure battery connections are good and clean, same with all grounds, starter connections. Check the battery condition as well, one bad battery can be a problem. Good luck.

I think that's kinda high but then again, I rarely get into the pricing side at work. Judging from the monthly sales flyer from the dealership I work at, the clutches range from $350-750 for reman and new Eaton clutches. For example, a reman 15.5 easy pedal clutch w/exchange is $463.Rarely do we install new clutches unless requested by the customer.

Glad it went ok for you, I personally do not like working on them things in chassis. Luckily, I rarely have to do that.

I used to have that problem years ago when I didn't use a torque wrench. Now I torque 'em every time and rarely have leaking problems. I think the main reason they leak is from over tightening and distorting the tip of the line. Maybe even damaging the injector as well.

The kysor module should be to the left of the clutch pedal. The oil psi switch/sensor(kysor) should be behind the tach/speedo panel.