turckster

With a FMI:5 (open circuit) and happening intermittent, I would guess it was loose/bad terminals on the inj. connector. We have seen a few '04 emission engines, even with new/fairly new harnesses, still have issues like what you describe. I'm not sure if all the '04 emission harnesses got the higher tension terminals. Last week we had a truck with the same issues you described, has a new harness. The injector connectors didn't feel like they had enough tension when you pulled the connector out of the injectors-kinda loose. We replaced all the terminals with the higher tension ones and the connectors felt "tighter", problem solved.

Sorry, just realized you bought the truck from an auction. I'd still have a talk with a salesman or even someone in service, might get lucky and get fuse diagrams for free. Are you sure there is a hvac unit in the sleeper. Should be in the center under the bed. If it has one, there should be a control panel for it in the sleeper.

Warranty does not pay for fuses. Warranty will only pay for a fuse that is blown due to an active electrical issue. If you're missing fuse location diagrams, I would talk to the salesman. He might be able to get those items for you quicker/easier. He might even eat a few fuses to keep you happy.

Revving the engine excites the regulator, essentially kicking in the alternator. Pulley diameter has a lot to do with what rpm it takes to do this. The reason for this, I think, is to keep the regulator from draining the batteries when the engine is not running. Don't quote me on that, not real sure. It sounds good though

+1 A mechanical throttle linkage would have to fabricated, engine mounts, all sorts of things not quite fitting or fabricated to fit, a true nightmare. Then when you need parts for this engine (e-6), with no true chassis number to go by----no thanks. I would avoid the head ache and replace like for like.

Make sure all connections are clean, tight and properly routed. Use a DVOM and check power and ground wires, check the ground relay-make sure it is not popping open or stuck open. Knowing what the inactive faults are might help to figure out what is going on.

Before you try to pull out the evaporator and heater core, make sure that you can change vent direction--defrost. floor and center. If its hard to change vent direction or it is stuck, might as well prepare to change the mode box. The hvac unit has to be removed completely in order to change the mode box. While its out the evap. and heater core are much easier to remove. If it all works ok, then what 84superdog said would fix you up.

For V-MAC I&II, the b/c 2-2 is coolant temp sensor. Not sure where they got boost pressure. Anyhow, the 2-2 code is voltage above normal or shorted high.

First thing I would check is make sure all grounds are ok and batteries and connections are good. I know that sounds goofy but bad ground and batteries do strange things. Check eecu pins and connectors for damage or corrosion. It Could be that the eecu needs to be flashed and reprogramed. Was the boost pressure sensor recently replaced? If so, could be the wrong sensor. The AI engine and AC engine both have sensors that look the same but do not interchange.

The top relay(Relay #1) supplies voltage to fuses 16, 17, 18, 19, 26, 27, 28, 29, 31. Next down relay(Relay#2) feeds fuses 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 30. Relay#3 (next down) feeds fuses-40, 41, 42, 43 Relay #4 feeds fuses-44, 45, 46, 47 Fuse #40 is for the engine ecu Now, having said that, make sure the ground relay is good. It may be popping open while cranking the engine. It is usually caused by a shorted/bad starter (pulling too much amperage). The either shot spins the engine faster and the starter is barely pulling any amperage,so the ground relay stays engaged. A quick way to tell is to install a heavy gauge jumper on the ground relay studs, if the engine starts--there you go.

Use a long punch and tap them back and forth, use lots of penetrating oil. Have someone use a heel bar prying up on the injector while knocking it back and forth. Might be able to work them out that way. We have an extractor for those and they still can be a pain in the tush. Clean the bores well, coat the injectors with anti-seize. Make sure you install the injector upper seal/gasket.

Make sure the tip turbine is in good shape, spins freely. There is a check valve in the pressure side of it that sometimes goes bad. It wouldn't cause the smoke but it could account for the higher than normal exhaust temps.

The speedo cable runs to the rear of the transmission to a speed adapter thats mounted in the tailshaft. Simple cable replacement should be all that it takes.

Check the ground relay, it may be popping open when cranking the engine. This is usually cause by a bad starter pulling too much amperage or internally shorted. Had one eat my lunch doing practically the same thing when I came across the bad relay and starter.

On vmac I and II, only 3 thing will cause the engine to shut down- oil psi, coolant temp and coolant level. These are programmable to be turned on/off. It would help to know the blink code of the active fault when the engine shuts down. To retrieve an active code- with the cruise switch in the off position and an active MIL light, push the cruise set/resume switch up until the MIL light goes out. The MIL light will flash a certain amount of times, pause and flash a certain amount of times again. This is the blink code. Repeat to see if there are any other faults since it will only show one fault at a time. Make sure all fluids are ok and you have oil psi while cranking and running.

Mack blink code 6-4 from Mack Electronic Information System: Failure Mode Identifier FMI: 8 (Abnormal) Parameter Identification: S231 Message Identification MID: 128 (Abnormal), 142 (Abnormal) Circuit Description: The V-MAC III system uses the J1939 data line to control communication between the Vehicle Electronic Control Unit (VECU), Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU), Anti-lock Brake System Control Unit, Allison Transmission Control Unit, and accessory systems, depending on vehicle model and option content. The J1939 data line is an expandable data bus, allowing the addition of accessory control modules (Collision Avoidance, Traction Control, etc.) to be connected to the circuit. The J1939 data line is comprised of two circuits; the L circuit and the H circuit. The two wires are twisted together to prevent outside electrical noise from interfering with the data being carried by the L and H circuits. The V-MAC III system is designed to allow continued engine operation with the loss of the J1939 data line signal as long as the J1587 data line is still operational. Code Setting Conditions: If either the Vehicle Electronic Control Unit (VECU) or the Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU) loses communication on the J1939 data line for more than one half second, code 6-4 will set and the Electronic Malfunction Lamp (EML) will turn on. The fault will become inactive if communication resumes for at least on half second. When code 6-4 is active, engine speed will default to 900 RPM. If communication is lost on both the J1587 and J1939 data lines the engine will not run. Fault code 6-4 will set for some mismatches of VECU and EECU software levels. Blink code 6-4 will also set while the VECU is in the programming mode for Customer Data, Fleet Data, or Mack Data. This code setting condition is normal and the code will become inactive after the ignition key is cycled. Fault code 6-4 may log, without illuminating the Electronic Malfunction Lamp (EML), on vehicles equipped with Eaton/Bosch ABS/ATC module # 7MN54M2. This nuisance code will not affect the performance of the vehicle. When a vehicle equipped with this ABS/ATC module is being diagnosed for an inactive code 6-4, contact Mack Trucks Service Engineering. Additional Symptoms: The engine will not start, if communication is lost on both the J1587 and J1939 data lines. If communication is lost on just the J1939 line, the engine will only run at 900 RPM.

Basically, if the puff limiter is not working properly you will either have no smoke and low power or allot of smoke and slightly more power in the low rpm's. Since you have excessive smoke and feel like it has less power, I would take a good look at both inlet and outlet side of the turbo. Make sure there are no excessive leaks on the pressure side after the turbo.

There are 2 types of 2090 transmissions, long box and short box. Short is synchronized and long has a sliding clutch. If it has the sliding clutch then yes, it will grind. Low range is for 1st, 2nd and 3rd only. With the rear lid off, make sure the fork pinch bolt is tight-these are notorious for being loose. Make sure the air psi to the range cyl. is same as truck air psi. You can see the high range clutches and range sliding clutch teeth with the rear lid off, if there is chipping/damage to the sliding clutch teeth or the clutch discs look burnt/have alot of slack then its bad. If you choose to fix it yourself, it will be a chore to repair. It requires special tools to remove the synchronizer in chassis. Some dealerships let customers borrow tools. If, by chance, this has just the sliding clutch, removal of the transmission is your only option for repair. There are no tools for in chassis removal of the rear section on a non synchronized trans. good luck

B/C faults 2-1 and 2-2 are coolant temp faults, the sensor is located at the rear of the water manifold-pointing twards the cab. this b/c is the same for VMAC I or II. B/C 2-2 is voltage above normal or shorted high. Could possibly be the sensor itself shorted internally or wiring issue. good luck.

VMAC III will store inactive faults, up to 15 occurrences. If the fault is active you can get the blink code from the cruise switch. With the cruise on/off switch off, toggle the set/resume switch up until the malfunction light goes out. The MIL light will flash a certain amount of times, pause for a few seconds then flash a number of times again. This Is your blink code, repeat to see if there are more codes. It will only flash one code at a time. If the faults are inactive the you will need something to retrieve the codes. The brake lights should not come on with low air with the ignition key off-unless Australia chassis is different which I don't think it is. Could be a relay won't power down or, worst case, vehicle ecu won't power down or anything for that matter really. Good luck

Its really hard to diagnose stuff like this without having a computer hooked up to see whats going on first hand. I would make sure all connections are ok, from batteries to cab power and grounds. I'd also make sure the charging system and batteries are ok. Short of knowing faults its kinda hard to diagnose problems like this, or actually being there to see it happen/fault.

If you have an active fault (oil psi for example) then the engine ecu will prevent a regen to protect the engine. Its quite common for the oil psi sensors to fail so that's no biggie.

3 lbs day cab and 3.5lbs w/sleeper.

Screw the sensor in until it contacts the tone wheel, back off 1 complete turn and lock it down. Not too tight, the sensors will crack/break easily. Resistance of vss is 100-200 ohms btw.

There shouldn't be any difference in adjustment procedure between the two engines. If the e-tech has a poweleash then the procedure changes slightly.