turckster

The most likely culprit is going to be the injector cup o-ring(s). It's the one place on the engine that both coolant and fuel are anywhere near each other. You will have to drain the coolant anyway which gives you the opportunity to make sure there is no fuel in the coolant. If there is fuel in the coolant then be prepared to replace coolant o-rings/rubber gaskets in the near future. The fuel will swell the rubber coolant o-rings and gaskets. The first one to usually go is the rectangular o-ring/gasket between the water pump housing and oil cooler cover. When replacing the injector cups, make sure that all old o-ring material is cleaned off the cup bores or this will happen again. Good luck.

Remove the fuel return fitting in the block to drain the fuel galley. As stated by Challenger, leave one bolt in screwed out half way or so. When installing the EUP w/new o-rings (o-rings in top and bottom grooves-don't use the middle any more), slide in the EUP, rotate the engine using a turning tool until you notice the EUP is at the bottom of its travel(bottom of the lobe). Slowly and evenly tighten mount bolts to draw the EUP down evenly. Torque the bolts to 60-65 ft/lbs. Lube the o-rings and bolt threads w/fresh engine oil. Bleeding air out of the fuel galley can be a pain in the tush. What has worked for me is to loosen all the inj. lines at the EUP's, pump up the fuel primer, when fuel flows out of each EUP that looks clear-not airy, tighten inj. lines(torque to 25 ft/lbs). Hope that helps, good luck.

With regen issues you really need a diagnostic computer hooked up to see what's happening. Could possibly be a drv valve not working, erroneous temp sensor value, plugged or bad catalyst filter, bad dpf pressure sensor and so on. Just too many things could possibly be the problem. Keep after these guys and make them fix it right.

I would not do that, Talk to the General Manager and/or company owners and see if you all can come to a agreement that everyone is happy with. Once you start talking lawyers then it turns into a whole other ball game. The Mack dealer in Midland/Odessa is owned by the same people that I work for in Lubbock, Tx. Contact the owners or their upper management, I bet they will do what they can to resolve this problem.

Jump the terminals together on the ground relay, if the engine starts right off then there you go. Most of the time they are located on the firewall.

If your going to have it shut down for an extended period of time, I'd say a dead man switch is what you need. Or, you could spend a little time and find out where that draw is coming from. remove all negative cables from the battery terminals, use a test light to jump from one cable to the battery terminal. If it glows brightly then chances are you have a good draw on the batteries. Unplug the fuses one at a time to find the source of the draw. Whatever is in that circuit is the problem. Alternators and radios pull a little amperage so the test light will always have a little light.

From Mack Electronic Info System: When performing electrical tests, wiggle wires and connectors to find intermittent problems. Failure Mode Identifier (FMI): 3 (Voltage High), 4 (Voltage Low/Open), 14 (Invalid) Parameter Identification (PID): P91 Message Identification (MID): 142 Circuit Description: The Throttle Position (TP) Sensor is a potentiometer that is mechanically linked to the accelerator pedal. When the accelerator pedal is depressed during normal operation, the TP Sensor signal voltage to the Vehicle Electronic Control Unit (VECU) increases. The Vehicle Electronic Control Unit (VECU) monitors the TP Sensor signal voltage and uses the signal to calculate engine fuel requirements. Location: The Throttle Position (TP) Sensor is located beneath the accelerator pedal. The TP Sensor pigtail connector is located under the dash above the accelerator pedal. The Vehicle Control Unit (VECU) is typically located under the dashboard in front of the passenger seat. Code Setting Conditions: The Electronic Malfunction Lamp (EML) will turn on and code 5-1 will set when the Vehicle Electronic Control Unit TP Sensor signal voltage is less than 0.4 volts or greater than 4.5 volts for 0.25 seconds. If the signal voltage returns to between 0.4 volts and 4.5 volts for 0.25 seconds, the fault will become inactive. When code 5-1 is active, engine speed will default to 900 RPM. Additional Symptoms: Accelerator pedal is unresponsive. Engine stumbles if the fault is intermittent. Normal TP Sensor Parameters: Table 1 Resistance pin C to pin A 2000–3000 Ω Resistance pin C to pin B 200–800 Ω (accelerator pedal not depressed) Resistance pin C to sensor case Over 100,000 Ω Remove the vecu kick panel, make sure none of the wiring is damaged from rubbing. I think, but not sure, in the wiring to the vecu (near it) there is a connector for remote throttle. Make sure that the connector(s) are tight. Good luck

That's a lot of money to spend only to have the same issue. Take the truck to a competent dealer. Without being there and seeing whats going on w/Tech Tool hooked up, we're all just guessing. Hope you get this fixed. Good luck.

You may not need a new sensor, just need to adjust the old one. To check measurement or adjust: Using a depth micrometer or vernier caliper, measure from the sensor mounting surface on the front timing gear cover to the face of the camshaft gear. Do not measure into one of the sensing holes in the gear face or an inaccurate measurement will result. Table 1 -- SHIM SELECTION CHART FOR ENGINE SPEED AND ENGINE POSITION SENSORS Depth as Measured Use the Following P/N 505GC28 Shims Less than/equal to 1.328 (2) P30 1.329 through 1.343 (1) P45 1.344 through 1.358 (1) P30 1.359 through 1.373 (1) P15 Equal to/greater than 1.374 None

If the engine was running ok before the repairs were performed, should have run ok after the repairs. Sounds like to me the injection pump was not timed correctly when they installed it. The drive on the engine has a roll pin between two teeth to make sure the pump drive fits one way. I have seen the roll pin move or fall out,. Miss by one tooth and the engine will not make it very far without a major failure. I've seen pistons melted into globs of goo, valve heads melted and holes in heads. This from an engine that was driven only a few miles after the inj. pump was timed incorrectly-removed only for oil leaks by the customer.

Check to see if you have air in fuel return, usually you can see this through the tank fill or run the line into a bucket. If you have air in the fuel return with the engine off but the key on then it could be a problem with the "T" fitting on top of the 7th injector. Sometimes the check valves in the "T" fitting get stuck and allow air to return through the fuel system. Is there fuel around the hand primer pump on the filter stand? When you pump the primer pump, does fuel come out around the little plastic cap? If so, air is entering the fuel system through the little cap in front of the primer pump. Its hard to start because fuel is returning back to the tank because of that little cap. Only cure is to replace the filter stand. If everything looks ok and you only have air in the fuel return when the engine is running then I'd have to say the injectors are most likely the issue. Just because its hard to start I wouldn't just jump in there and pull the injectors. I have removed injectors only find nothing wrong, then to find that "T" fitting bad. Ouch. Do some diagnostics, do it once and do it right. Good luck

I'm not real sure but I think the wiring harness should have connectors for axle temp sender and trans temp sender. If it was an option then the wiring should be there. Those temp sensors were not monitored by v-Mac 1 so programming would not be necessary.

The wiring is there, drivers side frame rail behind the transmission. There are 2 two wire connectors, might be labeled front and rear axle temp. You will have to run the wiring from there to the axle temp sensors. On the gauge cluster, stamped on the back side, should be labeled front axle temp and rear axle temp, just need to plug in correct gauges. The dealer will have to call Mack to have them add axle temp feature to the the main frame spec for your truck. Then the vecu will have to be programmed to enable that feature. If the wires are not labeled with tags let me know and I'll look up the wire numbers. Same thing with the trans temp, connector is on top of the transmission, cluster should have label for temp gauge location. I think it, like the other gauges, has to be enabled and then vecu programmed.

Glad you got it started, persistence pays off. I would call Mack to see if there is some service rep in your area or if they can help with the purchase of the software and interface. Being you have a V-Mac ll system, you most likely need Vcads/Tech Tool software. Or check e-bay for a pro-link diagnostic scanner and Mack V-Mac ll cartridge. Good luck

If the gauge is part of the main cluster and is not operating then the cluster needs to be replaced. The new cluster needs to be programmed to the chassis. I wish there was an easier way, but, there is not. Before each cluster is programmed, we contact Mack so they can set up the software on the mainframe. Once the instrument cluster is programmed we have to program the odometer for correct mileage then program the date/time. All this is dealer only.

I'm not really sure on that, the only thing I can think of is contacting the nearest Mack dealership for help. They might be able to point you the right direction. Good luck

Get a clean 5 gallon bucket and put some clean fuel in it. Run a #6 line from the fuel transfer inlet to the bucket of fuel. Use the hand primer pump to prime the fuel system. If not equipped w/hand primer pump use an external primer pump, plumbed into the outlet side of the transfer pump. Once the fuel system is primed, crank it up and see if it'll start. If the engine starts then the problem could be a bad connection from the fuel tank(s) to transfer pump. For example: a cracked fitting, broken tank suction tube, damaged fuel line, debris plugging line, etc. If the engine still does not start, make sure the rack is moving. Remove the plug on the front of the inj. pump-its about an 1 1/8 or 1 1/4, can't remember. Have someone turn the key on, you should be able to feel the rack move to the front. During cranking the rack should be at full fuel. If not, make sure you don't have a loose inj. pump connector. These are a few things that might help. Other things like battery connections and condition, ground connections, fuses and so forth need to be checked as well if all else fails. Not sure the extent of the damage from the wreck, any and all info you can give can help the diagnosis. Good luck.

Only thing that comes to my mind is either the service relay valve or foot valve is bad. If both front and rear brakes are slow to release from a brake application then I would point at the foot valve, especially since when you remove the trailer service line you are getting a little air from it.

I use 2 air gauges-one tapped into the wet tank signal line to the governor and the other tapped into the unloader signal line from the governor. Once the wet tank psi reaches 125-135psi there should be air pressure present on the unloader signal line. If the compressor is still building air psi either the signal line might be plugged or the unloaders are stuck. If no air psi on unloader signal line, bad air governor. If the wet tank signal line doesn't build air psi its probably a plugged line. Good luck

8 gallons total including filters, 1 gallon for filters, 6 gallons should hit low mark on dip stick and 7th gallon should hit full mark.

Is the engine an e-tech (6 individal inj. pumps) or an e-7 engine?

While cranking the engine loosen an injection line to see if fuel is being delivered. If not, could be there is no fuel to pump or the pump rack is not responding (inline inj. pump). Electronics aside, the engine needs the basics to run-fuel and air. Make sure its getting fuel. It would be best if you could hook a diagnostic computer or pro-link to it to see if something else is going on. Without that, its a stab in the dark trying to figure out whats going on.

There is a plastic cap right behind the hand primer pump, when you are using the hand pump is there a collection of fuel/wet around the cap? If so, the o-ring below the cap is bad and is the cause of the fuel drain back. Replace the filter stand, I've tried to replace the o-ring-doesn't work. If not, both fuel filters nipples have anti-drain back check valves in them, make sure they move freely. Any fitting from the tanks up to the inlet of the transfer pump could be the cause of your drain back issue. Has anything been serviced recently? good luck

Check for voltage to ecu(s). Does the malfunction and shut-down lights come on when the ignition is keyed on? What year is the truck? Need a little more information.

E-6/E-7 4v heads are nearly the same, think both have press-in injector cups.