BGarofalo
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Posts posted by BGarofalo
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All the switches are lit up internally. The hole in the top right is for my cell phone mount that’s not shown. The wiring is identical if you use the correct switch bodies but it is necessary to change the connectors to match. Here is the finished product after lettering. Hopefully I’ll get it mounted this weekend.
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Thanks for the kind words. To answer a few questions; no speed control because this panel is going in one of the E9 powered CL’s. I realize I used the wrong trucks panel as my example. The reason there are 3 “pto” switches is because I run a neutral lockout as well as a dual pressure pto. Unfortunately I was not able to get a factory labeled switch for those purposes so there will be decals. I should have the finished product tomorrow so it will make more sense.
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I thought I’d share my latest upgrade on one of my trucks. I’ve been updating the interior and decided to build my own gauge/switch panel. If your not familiar with CL’s the gauge panel is plastic and kind of cheap looking in my opinion. So I decided to modernize it a bit. Using Western Star style switches and Peterbilt style air rockers I measured up a panel design and cut it out of 3/16 aluminum. I also wanted to move all pto/dump controls from a floor mount tower to the panel as well. Im just about done now just waiting on some decals. Here is the progress to this point.
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8 hours ago, m16ty said:
If your valves are working right, there should never be an air passageway from the exhaust manifold to the atmosphere (other than out the stack). There may be a intake or exhaust valve open, but never at the same time.
In some engines this is true but more often than not there is valve overlap. Meaning both intake and exhaust valves open. This is common for cooling the exhaust valves. Also heavily used in emissions engines.
Ive never had luck with that cement. It looks good when it dries and you have such high hopes, but then after 2 miles it’s right back to square one.
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On 10/10/2018 at 11:59 PM, kscarbel2 said:
Yet another one who knows more about Mack V8s than.......Mack engineers. Some people just have to learn the hard way.
I guess by this logic Mack engineers designed the e9 to spin rod bearings and drop valve seats on factory hp engines for some reason.
Bottom line is everything breaks. If you want 2000hp do it, if you want 3hp do it.
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Looking to sell one of my projects. I bought this with intentions of making it a flatbed truck but there is just not enough time in the day anymore. Truck has 85,000 original miles on a e7 engine. Motor is in beautiful shape. Mack 5 speed, 44k camelback (needs bushings), drives and shifts nice. Was a recycling truck in a small town. Cab is rusted in rear corners. Would like to sell whole But willing to part out if necessary. I’m looking for $4200, that’s what I have in it at this point.
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On 9/24/2018 at 9:34 AM, 96bulldogpower said:
I got the part numbers for the 2019 pinnacles but that’s all I ever got, although I love the new pinnacle headlights, I just couldn’t justify spending the $1200 my mack dealer wanted for the set. Maybe later down the road I’ll impulse buy a pair and share some pictures with you guys, but all in all, I only have about $120 and a little bit of my time into these headlights I made.
If you don't mind what part number did you come up with for the headlamp assembly on the new pinnacle? My dealer doesn't have a full assembly part number, only individual pieces. I'm curious if they will fit in the CH/CL hood.
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Looks like a 12 speed shift knob to me.
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I have experience with these Roush propane engines and let me tell you, they are junk. I do a lot of work for propane distributors and they buy them for tax credits. One of the 2017 F550’s just got a replacement engine at 40k miles. They get about 4 miles to a gallon which equates to 150 mile range. All the guys carry a spare 100lb tank just in case. It has 2 speeds, idle and floored. Another truck had a liquid line that feeds Roush’s rail blow off going down the highway. Driver couldn’t see and the whole area was blasted with propane. Lucky there was no fire.
About the only good thing is cheap fuel.
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That thing must destroy tires. Or maybe at every turn you wait 3 min for all 45 lift axles to come up...
What kind of weight are they allowed to run?
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I’ve been using Extruded tube CAC’s for my CL’s for a while. I use CGJ. https://www.cgj.com/2013/10/16/charge-air-cooler-design-differences/
Prices are reasonable and the fit has always been spot on.
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You have a neutral lockout. You have to pick a gear on transmission to operate winch correct? If the seals are swollen or damaged from an oily air system they can stick like that.
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I live right down the road from where this happened. This was a stupid decision on the part of the bus driver. The emergency turn in the median is very large and I've seen many a cars do a uturn. I would never have expected a school bus to try that though. The company who operates the dump truck are notorious for being over weight and driving like maniacs. They cut in and out of traffic like race cars. So it was poor judgment on both ends here and a lot of kids are suffering for it.
This accident really breaks my heart.
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That U model tanker is a neat peice of history. It's a single axle where the pump and hose reel are mounted on the truck. Then there is a large hose that runs from the tanker to the tractor. Can't do that anymore. They have a few macks hidden around that property.
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Call conmet tech dept. they will need your bearing numbers and then they will cross to one of their hubs. Had to do it a few times and they have always came through.
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That's tough to answer because there are so many differant specs. I would just have the guy weigh it for you. My cl713 weighs a hefty 26,000lbs and it's a day cab tractor.
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Where are you in northern NJ? East/west? What sort of issues are you having?
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Worn hub as Hobert62 said. The pilot in the center of the hub is worn causing studs to fatigue and fail.
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Depends. Would you be able to make more money with a tri-axle and more capacity? If so that's the way I would go. If not then 10k for new rails is cheaper than buying a new truck.
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On 12/28/2017 at 2:43 PM, Outbehindthebarn said:
Can you post a pic of the area on the oil pan rail where yours is stamped? I see a bumped out area near the front corner where my a/c compressor mounts, but I can feel or see any numbers there.
Sorry for the delay its just been madness at work. Passenger side near the front cover on the oil pan rail. Its a very light stamping so you will probly need to sand the paint down a bit.
I have a video of the engine starting but I don't have a youtube account. After only a few spins of the air starter it came to life. The air starter must spin the motor over at 300 rpm! it is quite impressive actually.
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The engine serial number should be on the passenger side of the engine on the oil pan rail. You will see a flat area. I would have to agree with 41Chevy, I think the number built is wrong. The timeline with the engine build dates just doesn't line up. Aside from a few differences they are pretty much identical to an E9.
I got it started last night. Ill try to post a video.
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2 hours ago, Outbehindthebarn said:
I have one of the 142 1005's in my Superliner according to the Mack Museum..... the 400's were the later models. My truck was ordered in 1979.... and for all intents and purposes, it looks just like an E9.
What is the engine serial number on your engine? Is is painted the gold color originally? I'm curious as to why if there were only 142 of these engines they span 3 years. So the engine I just bought is number 113 and it was built in mid 1976?
Amybody have a tip for me posting a picture? Keeps telling me error. Never had trouble before.
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I thought I'd share the new piece to my Mack collection. Maybe you guys have some more information on this engine model for me as well. I picked up this engine to add to my inventory and it is actually a bit more interesting than I anticipated. By the looks of it I don't believe it has ever been in a truck. As you can see in the picture it has a build date of 8/1976 and the engine serial number is 113. Now some of the parts on the engine are dated 4/1976. It has factory block off plates on the compressor and power steering holes. No pitting on the manifolds and it appears it never had a fan. Were these engines with that early of a build date put in trucks? What does the B stand for in the model number?
Side note: its not letting me add images...
Gave the old dash a new look
in Exterior, Cab, Accessories and Detailing
Posted
Great work, looks like new! It takes a lot of time to do it nice and you nailed it.