BGarofalo

Very nice work. Your experience shows. I've seen so many guys with all sorts of voodoo frame splices. I do mine like you with a vertical cut and insert. Every manual I've ever read has said to do it that way. I went away from the reamer and use a rotocut annular cutter. It saves a lot of time. 5/8 hole in 1/2 rail in 45 seconds. Over the course of 50 holes it really adds up on time savings. Cool project and great work!

Just swap number 8 injector with number 6 and see if the noise follows the injector or stays with the cylinder.

Here just click view file. It's free. https://macktrucks.vg-emedia.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductId=6330

Another easy test is to remove the injector return lines at each head and see if one has significantly more return fuel. Poor connection at injector, cracked line, or unseated injector can cause a miss. With the V8 firing order its sometimes not easy to tell when the engine is not running right at idle.

Did you check liner protrusion while apart? Check valve bridge guide pins for looseness. If there are no running issues I would lean towards exhaust leak.

Dynatard uses an extra "bump" on the camshaft. By adjusting the valves in firing order it ensures you are at the base circle of the camshaft. Its not so much that you have to adjust in firing order but it makes it easier finding tdc of each cylinder by following firing order.

Dave you just made my day. I cant stop laughing .

Looks like planetary axles under that Titan. Awesome picture.

I've yet to see one come apart like that. I've replaced a few fabricated steer axles due to wear on the king pin bosses but never snapped right off. Not a fan of those axles. They are throw aways.

That's the truck from the auctions few weeks ago in PA right?

An injector certainly could be a cause. I would look toward the VGT turbo first. Stuck or sticking vanes can cause smoke and quickly plug up a dpf. I run into a lot of regen problems stemming from the turbo.

Kinked or blocked vent line from dash valve will cause slow engagement of park brakes. Just trace line from back of dash valve. Usually just dumps out side of firewall.

Looking for a good qsk19 cummins for a project truck. Any leads would be helpful.

Don't forget to check where your pto is mounted. If its a rear mount be careful of the trans you buy/use because not all had the provision for it.

Yea that's the norm these days. Single 1/2" thick rail vs double frame. If your in an area that salts the roads in winter then it's the better choice.

I have been meaning to straighten out the wheel in my CL so I figured I would give a quick how-to. Trucks without adjustable draglinks or twin steering boxes can end up with a crooked wheel when components are changed. Here are the steps to adjusting the wheel back to center. 1.Drive straight to center the steering. 2.The rubber cap can just be pried off. Sometimes the inner cup will stay with it other times it will separate. 3. Unplug your horn connection wire. 4. Remove the inner cup by prying up. (if it didn't already come out with the rubber) 5. Remove the center nut. 6. Using a suitable puller pop the wheel off. (There are 2 threaded holes to grab the wheel) Usually come off with minimal force. 7. Align the wheel straight and re-assemble.

I think it's a cool project. They are a 60 degree vee so they do take up more real estate than the e9.

I have 2 Macks registered non-commercial in NJ. Its actually not very difficult in our state. As long as your using it for private non-commercial applications it is just a normal registration. It needs to be registered for its correct GVW (which the fee schedule is identical for commercial) and you will have to pay sales tax on it being its non-commercial. I personally use Progressive for insurance. Cost me $875 per truck per year and that includes any trailer I'm hooked to. I'm assuming it will be registered over 18,000 lbs so it will still need an annual smoke test. Of course being its a 1979 it will be much cheaper to register is as "antique" but you are rolling the dice transporting anything around. NJ has a very limited definition for uses of antique vehicles.

Have someone step on the throttle pedal while you check the pump arm is traveling all the way. I've seen worn out linkage cause incomplete travel.

A new eaton clutch #208925-25 which is 2050ft/lbs is $680.00. There used to be different clutches for Mack due to the fork facing down. It interfered with the grease fitting. All eaton clutches now come with 3 grease fittings so this is a direct fit.

Whats the part number they priced for you? I'll tell you how much they are. A 2250 ft/lbs easy pedal should be about $700.

Did you pump out the DEF fluid that was in the tank? Poor quality DEF fluid will cause this.

It should bolt on but there will be some differences. Transmissions use SAE sizes for bell housings to keep it simple for engine manufactures and transmission manufactures. Newer MP motors use a flywheel housing engine mount where as your older mack engines use a bellhousing mount. Keep in mind that a 12 speed may not be up to the task of holding the torque output of a mp10.

I give that trailer a week in port Newark. It will be bent and half the parts stolen off of it. The guys that run the port are brutal in their beat to death multi colored freightliners lol.

I always try to park on pavement or concrete. If your parking them on gravel or grass/dirt for periods of time it accelerates the rust. If there is something that i'm not planning on painting or otherwise making look nice again I use FluidFilm.