TRH

If it still has a DPF, drop it out and confirm its toasted. No soot should pass thru the filter, not enough to be visible. I'd bet money it's dusted. Unplugging the egr valve and ziptying a rubber glove over an egr tube (I use the cooler outlet) will confirm a failed valve, which rarely sets a dtc but may cause a rough idle. The EGR valve leaks brand new out of the box, but the glove will explode if it's bad. Assuming you can get to specd boost at 100% engine load in 2nd highest gear, consistently, it could also be injectors, less likely a turbo, manifold leak... Etc. the us07 mp7 had issues with valve train too. Being the dpf is cooked, I'd start there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Follow guided diag for FPR fault. The PSID 111 is more than likely set by the same cause as the SPN 3471. Fmi is the same. If you don't have ptt make sure your fuel lines are connected correctly to the aftertreatment fuel pump and not blocked or collapsed. Outlet pressure is 100psi ish. The spec is only available thru GD. I believe it is a "smart" component (datalink) but I've never actually had to replace one except due to massive contamination. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Engine rating and type? Specific programming differs thru the maxicruise, econodyne, and maxidyne and their performance is definitely different. We've also had some programming updates that affected the turbo operation during braking but a weak or faulty turbo definitely can cause what you're describing, but the diagnostics are best left to a dealer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They also develop as a vibration, or hard start from combustion gas in the fuel system. The SCR units (US10) are a bit more reliable in my experience due to reduced egr flow and less strain. You'd have to contact Mack about a horsepower change on the newer MP8s. As I understand, it is a very significant process in most cases and I've yet to hear of someone doing it - the cost was prohibitive. Consider the gearing if you opt for a 485 for your application. It may be easier to change final drive ratios or transmission to get what you want. Not a lot of info to go off bud. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Even the 2016s are showing injector issues already. No end in sight until common rail, maybe. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tee a gauge into the outlet of the pump. 85-100psi is spec, no less . There's a 1/8npt port in the intake manifold to check boost as well. Start with the basics. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Parts are all thru IMPACT. No paper manuals anymore. I don't know if you can even get them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Check new code. Get the cal code programmed if it's on the same cylinder and check the wiring, especially visually across the back of the head where people like to leave the fucking clamp off the harness. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The latest I'd go is the ASET AI. The AC was were the shit begin. The MP is mechanically, very very reliable. It's all the attached bullshit that will run your purse dry. Emissions controls, and the usual injector eating. The worst part is, you let a failure go very long, and the shit hits the fan - it's a landslide. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

80-100 psi off the top of my head. Could also be injectors or a lot of other things causing underfueling which would result in a lack of boost. Any smoke? Codes? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The single piece SCR is gonna be a disaster. We're supposed to have common rail for the middle of the 2017 model year. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Monitoring oil pressure and taking samples will definitely tell you, far in advance of a problem being catastrophic. I can't recommend sampling enough, but I've seen engines run well over a million with good pressure and the bearings that came out were still serviceable. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can. Leave the cruise control toggle in the off position and hold the cruise switch in "SET" until the light blinks off. It'll flash x number of times, pause, and then flash y number of times, so your blink code looks like x-y - then you just need to look it up in the VMAC book and follow the troubleshooting. So say it blinks four times, pauses, then four more. That's 4-4. You can find that, and a lot more, on the Mack eMedia portal. Search for "V-MAC"

Can you actually check fuel pressure at the pump delivery? And I assume you checked for leaks already. As Rick said, pressurize and test all the CAC/tubing for leaks, and while you're at it, check the turbo. Excessive play in the turbine shaft or damaged compressor wheel could cause it, and make sure it doesn't bind when you spin it. Check the air cleaner..the obvious stuff. Feel free to whoop 30PSI of air to the charge air system, it'll take it and it better not whistle. Soap and water helps finding leaks in the cooler itself. Eliminating any air-related faults, you're back to fuel. Any smoke? Lightning bolt light coming on? A misfire can cause boost to drop off. Full load @ rated speed should be 35PSI, in the real world we'll see 28-32 and that'll be OK with some miles.

I'd use a timesert over a helicoil. They're similar but a helluva lot stronger. Especially if you're close to a liner flange.

Make sure someone else already had the cam done, otherwise you're playing the waiting game. Don't over-rev the sonuvabitch.

I'll do you one better, you can just grab the entire service manual as a PDF. Knock 'em dead.

The range switch on the dash operates a funky shift arrgt. in the rear cover. Don't try it moving, or you'll be in for a world of hurt and repair bills. Seen the aftermath, it ain't good. Mostly because it's a slow-as-hell-shift and lacks anything but a pneumatic interlock.

What part of the body is blocking you from removal out the top? A cab guard..? I have never had to, or even attempted to, drop a radiator out of an LE from the bottom. A short piece of chain, tilt the cab, and out she comes. Granted that's a bit of an oversimplification, but the top of the radiator could well block you from removing it from the bottom. We just remove the entire CAC/Rad assembly as a module.

Pull codes with the cruise switch when the light is on. Just for giggles. There has been a lot of hoo-da for coolant push on that era engine, including an updated waterpump and filter arrgt., they would suck air past the seal and cause the system to bubble and fart. Removing the drivebelt would be the way to isolate the waterpump as the source of air. If it's elsewhere, there isn't a lot of places, mostly expensive ones, for air to get into the system.

Engine Position Sensor (source of the 3-4...) is in the front cover, reads off the camshaft gear. Make sure it didn't get loosened when you blew all the crud off. The connector bodies on them are notorious for becoming brittle over time and breaking, so cleaning it out is definitely a good starting point. The next is checking the shim, which requires measuring the depth to the cam gear with the sensor out. A caliper works ok but I've always stuck to using a depth mic. The sensor could be mechanically damaged as well so a quick visual inspection is a good starting point.

Third on the check cam/crank position sensors for proper plugging. Mack has changed the wiring harness now to, theoretically, make it impossible but it can still be done. And of course check, and recheck, grounds; is there power going to the IMS (miniature solenoid on the starter), and is it hooked up correctly or did the wires possibly get reversed?

They have the same bs issues every epa04 engine does, and some crappy turbos and egr components Mack has updated. We have one getting overhauled at 1.75million miles right now though, don't underestimate her if she's already broken in and taken care of.

Find a more competent dealer. We roll a cam job in a few days at the worst. The lifter blowing up is usually because someone fucking dropped it and said "oh well". Rollers turning 99% of the time (in my experience) are due to messed up h rings. Make SURE they get inspected and get them fixed. Mackpro beat me to most of the literature.. Face peeling was common with etechs and usually caught early, only result in one lifter getting changed, but the failure inspection is extensive, including h-ring height.. Etc. Catastrophic failures like your last 2 sound like poor workmanship, but you'd have to determine root cause before I'd put it back together. It sounds like the original camjob was a run of the mill failure those engines have, and someone failed to address it correctly. Just my two cents.

Got an engine model, or last six of the vintage? Some revisions for pushing coolant around that era..