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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/31/2009 in Blog Comments

  1. I would suggest jacking wheel off of ground, scotch wheels and release brakes to see if wheel will turn by hand. If not able to turn by hand try backing off on brake adjuster. If it turns free now check to see if slack ajuster is tightning up on its own. Also try to raise tire and wheel with a bar to see if wheel bearing is loose. If backing off brake didn't help and no movement up and down on tire and wheel I would check to see if bearing is to tight or going bad. Hope this finds your problem.
    3 points
  2. https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/50389-truck-to-boat-engine-swap/?tab=comments#comment-374249 https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/34624-mack-–-scania-cooperation/?tab=comments#comment-231636
    2 points
  3. We had the same issues on the old 46 Mack, so I took the welder and added a smooth line to the top of the stationary piece above the door catch. I had two people slam my old Mack's doors...they were warned that if they wanted to keep their fingers, that they would not touch the old truck again. Why do people have to touch everything...why can't they just ask first. Anyway, we still have some issues but the doors work MUCH better with the extra weld. (We had even cut a bigger adjustment area and it worked somewhat). Im not sure about the other models but please make sure you check the rotating catch because each one is marked (R for right, L for left), and you should see them if they are on correctly...on the EGX1D model that is. Tracy
    2 points
  4. Found a 1941 Mack Ed. We are in phase 1 of our restoration.
    2 points
  5. I just did a post in the forum about E9's worth. It is all over the place, I know of several whole running trucks going for $2500 and up. Good running inline pump 500 engines fetching $6000. Put your truck up on the for sale section at your price and see if you get a call. Washington has guy still running them. Condition and location is a factor to how is interested. I would be but I'm in AZ to far for a spare engine.
    2 points
  6. cheers buddy. This project is going to be an emotional roller coaster but I am sure it will be worth it in the end. it's 5am and I am just about to go and play with it! my neighbours must hate me.
    2 points
  7. Did you take the proper safety precautions and move the grill away from any structures and rake away any errant leaves on the ground before you cooked the chicken?
    1 point
  8. After 2 years we are mechanically fit for the road. We've attended a few car /truck cruise nights. It seems to attract a lot of attention. We hope to get it painted by next spring.
    1 point
  9. For safety sake, I replaced the latches with mini bear claw latches. The work great you can lean against the door while turning a corner and the door will not open. I consider my truck a survivor and maybe not a concours restoration.
    1 point
  10. 1 point
  11. Fast food and similar service type jobs should not be "career" positions except for management! Should be "bridge" jobs for students or part time for adults to supplement income ! Training should be available for anyone of sufficient intelligence and incentive for decent paying work for free or at an affordable rate.There are people who are unwilling to do a days work even at a good wage, but I believe most people want to improve their lives !
    1 point
  12. While the majority of what your post stated is true and obvious to any adult capable of rational thought Aaron, as soon as you mentioned the ATA the lobbying arm of the commercial truckload carriers I hesitated to press "like" In my three million miles( not bragging there are drivers who have retired with four and even five million) just want you to to be aware "I've been out there" I've been union and non union company driver, and owner operator. Any professional truck driver who has managed to stay alive and not killed any member of the general public for even a couple of years has to be aware of the role safety plays, hands down, it's #one! I believe bull riding is #1 as far as being dangerous! The number of people involved plays a role statistically! Other than teamsters and any union I was in I don't join groups and have known totally safety oriented people in all groups including ooida and teamsters.All of us who have pulled doubles know they are an "accident looking for a place to happen) but there are master freight drivers who have pulled them for four million miles without so much as a ticket! Deregulation, which almost singlehandedly created the monster that the truckload industry is today was supported by the ATA and ironically the old Overdrive Magizine and adamantly opposed by the teamsters,since any student of basic economics knows that if you're running at a two cents a mile profit (or at break even so you can establish the account and then Jack up the rate) knows you can't afford to pay a decent wage! In 1978 when union scale was 18 cents a mile JBH was starting drivers at 6 cents a mile that comes to 3.00 an hr @ 50 mph! I wonder how many drivers killed themselves and members of the general public trying to feed a family on 3.00 an hr! There is a glaring double standard at many truckload carriers that any experienced driver can spot instantly! So Aaron, I have to wonder why in terms of the promotion of safety you only mentioned the ATA? However I agree that the wages should be sufficient that you shouldn't even have to think about falsifying a log, but as long as there exists the cutthroat competition directly resulting from deregulation we can only hope for that! As the comedian Lenny Bruce used to say "is there anyone I haven't offended?😁 See Axles To Grind Car and Driver Dec 2016
    1 point
  13. I have trouble with my EF too. I have to flip the catch mechanism on the door to one certain spot in order for it to stay closed. I finally had to start locking the door at shows because the window got broke from people trying to slam the door to shut it. Which makes me think of a question I have.
    1 point
  14. Ahhh..... the joys of adjusting doors with little/no adjustment. The latch mechanism on my drivers door was badly warn and I scored a better one at show that solved most of the issues for latching. With correct style of weatherstrip installed, my E doors look like the are open even when latched completely and require a little bit of a "slam". Wish I had some better advice.
    1 point
  15. You have it 180 degress out of time.What you need to do is take out the bolts on the front drive gear and hold the pumptiming and then turn the engine one turn then retime. The crank turns two times to one turn on the pump.
    1 point
  16. My 2002 does it about once a month since it was new. Always when driving for a split second, and always restarts it self. Never been able to fix. Have checked ground connections and everything else many times. No codes. If anyone has an answer ,let us know.
    1 point
  17. if you changed engines and used a flywheel from a mechanical motor will cause the problem you are describing.
    1 point
  18. Sounds like have grounding issue. Check your grounds and b.neg battery to frame conection.
    1 point
  19. Alex is my girlfriend. She is a great help. And no I'm not on holiday but I was made redundant at Xmas so I need a project to keep me busy.
    1 point
  20. Yea, I'd go through them and see if theres any good ones too. Somebody might be looking for a trans.
    1 point
  21. Bad injectors don't normally cause active EUP codes. Usually an active EUP code means a faulty EUP. Bad injectors cause a things like misses, smoke but not an active EUP code. There is a injector puller that threads into the top of the injector and you turn a nut that pulls the injector out. If you dont have the tool you could use a bolt that threads into the injector top and popped it out with a prybar. The bolt size is 1/4 coarse or 5/16 coarse the length should be about 3-4". I cant remember which one it is but its that easy. 1-Remove injector line 2-Remove valve cover 3-Remove injector retaining nut. You will need a 5/8 allen head socket for this nut. 4-Screw bolt into injector and "pop" it out. When you install the injector you will see a titty on the injector and a slot for that titty in the head. Screw the bolt you used to remove it back in and push the injector back in the bore while keeping the titty aligned with the slot. When you push it in you'll feel it seat in place, it will feel solid at the end of the push. Reinstall the retaining nut and torque to 45ftlbs. Reinstall all other parts. Its easy, you can do it.
    1 point
  22. could it be a fuel restriction? when "bolt on mustang guys" add all the aftermarket stuff, the lines and pump/pickups can be problematic maybe install a pressure/vacuum gauge on the supply side and see if you are pulling a vacuum. be careful, remember, NO FUEL lines in the cab good luck
    1 point
  23. ENOUGH ABOUT FOOTWEAR! IF STOP PARTICULAR YOU DO NOT, FIND MY BOOT UP YOUR ASS YOU WILL!
    1 point
  24. they could of at least left youy friggin clean jeans..what a piece a s--t,,yes i also have no room for lowlives,,bob
    1 point
  25. David b61 the valve on your dash should be the wet/dry valve too turn off the brakes air supply for the front brakes (type pp-8 westinghouse but more like type tw-1 dial plate fitted markedDry road-slippery road pc/no,235461ordial[234841 bendix prnp]no the brake boosters you don,t say if there is maxi type or brake chambers with rototype spring chambers for parking two chambers per wheel,working on one slack adjuster
    1 point
  26. David b61 the valve on your dash should be the wet/dry valve too turn off the brakes air supply for the front brakes (type pp-8 westinghouse but more like type tw-1 dial plate fitted markedDry road-slippery road pc/no,235461ordial[234841 bendix prnp]no the brake boosters you don,t say if there is maxi type or brake chambers with rototype spring chambers for parking two chambers per wheel,working on one slack adjuster
    -1 points
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