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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/28/2021 in all areas

  1. I've always placed a single twist into the straps on each side of the load to curtail the "singing" they do when at highway speeds. Never have knotted one myself as just throw them away when chaffed as cheap enough. I especially liked the gent made no attempt to sell you something in the video.
    4 points
  2. I saw a guy killed under a dump body that fell on him when I was fairly young. Never forgot that. If you block it up, use huge, solid pieces of wood. Don't take chances under that thing. I don't think a 4X4 is near big enough. The mechanic at our shop had 10X10 and 12X12 timbers he used under those things. He also had some steel-framed contraption he made that worked under certain bodies. Be careful. Gravity's a bitch.
    2 points
  3. The only one of these I've ever seen out of spec was a Maxidyne engine rebuild with a later aluminum flywheel housing incorporated. The fasteners retaining the flywheel housing to the block were not used with a thread locker and given the thermal expansion differences between aluminum and cast iron, they worked loose. In fact the flywheel housing being softer than the dowel pins was destroyed. A replacement cast iron flywheel housing was slipped onto new dowel pins and it was within circular runout tolerance upon reassembly and never another problem. This was a Fuller transmission install and
    2 points
  4. Before you remove the dowel pins, clean everything and install dry like Vmac3 says. Check the runout, if it's within spec you're good. If not, follow Vmac3's instructions. I had a bar made at a machine shop to bolt to the crank that held my drill good and square.
    2 points
  5. I wish everybody could be that objective and methodical. There are a lot of old wives' tales and myths that could be dispelled with that kind of methodical testing. Sure a lot more thought-out than the Myth Busters TV show! "Now we know, and knowing is half the battle."
    2 points
  6. From what I remember, if you are replacing the flywheel housing, the engine block has to be cleaned and the dowel pin needs to be removed. If the block is not absolutely clean then your readings will definitely be off. You install the new housing up dry, tight enough so it wont move but loose enough so you can make adjustments. Put a magnetic base dial indicator on the crankshaft and with a long enough stylus measure the total indicated runout. Adjust the flywheel housing to spec. If the runout is in spec (max if I remember it is around .007"of runout) check to see if the dowel pin hole is ali
    2 points
  7. Well after 7 months of lookin at her.... I pushed it in the shop. I hung a lawn mower gas tank with an in-line filter, like an I.V at the hospital, to feed the carb, and amazingly. it fired right up without ether.. I was happy to see the alt. and oil pressure gauge work. of course the carb gaskets are dry, so fuel leaked out. no sweat I just lowered the tank below the carb and let it clear out.. it had great throttle response... going to re-build the carb and, well.... keep going.. As you can see.. I have 3 helpers in my shop.. jojo
    2 points
  8. The check valves are in the lift pump; if you replaced the whole pump that would fix them. My hand primer pump was bad, causing loss of prime but maybe you already replaced it. I found my leak by removing the lines at the fuel tank, plugging them off, and putting 10 psi air into them...fuel started seeping out of the primer so that showed where the problem was.
    2 points
  9. Hey there friends! Well, we got buried in SNOW this week in northern Vermont. My vacation week and it snowed! We had six inches on Thursday, but if finally cleared and we had a beautiful day yesterday. We spent the day working on our race track. The Freightliner is almost done - thank goodness!! So, progress on the Mack?? I'm prepping the hood panels for paint today. Thankfully they don't require repair like all of the other panels did. I also added a detail I designed and cut in vinyl under the back window. It came out exactly the way I envisioned. This coming week we'll start
    2 points
  10. Picked up a donor truck for one of my B-61's. Problem is, as usual, I'm on the fence as to whether or not to part it out. I bought it mostly for the tires, mirrors, cab lights, engine/trans, and power steering box (and maybe the air ride seat) but it could be a pretty handy rig the way it is with the boom/basket. Maybe I can find someone that wants the boom/turret/down rigger assembly to put on another truck, otherwise i have no idea what to do with it. I'm not good at throwing stuff away. It runs sweet (237) and has the 6spd maxi torque.
    1 point
  11. Fixed my posting issues without deleting most of my pictures by becoming a VIP member. (Thanks, Barry!!). Finished up a lot of detail work on the cab and it's now ready for the long awaited trip to get the headliner and back wall installed. I'm just waiting for the upholsterer to call back that he's ready. The whole cab is ready for mounting and hookup. Lots of hours spent getting all of those tedious things wrapped up. I was going to leave the factory heater out to have more passenger foot room, it was mounted so close to the floor you can't get your feet under it and getting at the floorboa
    1 point
  12. Did you pressure test just the intercooler? Or the whole intake? Need to pressure check the whole system. I take the air inlet pipe off of the turbo and pressurize the whole system, just bump the engine over till the valves close and it won't take much psi to find a leak.
    1 point
  13. Check your fuel filter stand for cracks, took us 2 years to find that problem on a truck.
    1 point
  14. If someone would bring that assm. to my shop I see two different repairs weld up the worn shaft with my 110 lincoln mig and throw the shaft in the lathe and turn it down it would work for years if you greased it or get some 660 bronze bushings made up and leave the shaft alone and grease the crap out of it if you were really fussy after you cut down the shaft you could caseinate the outside it would be hard for the rollers.
    1 point
  15. Found these of the Kubota engine teardown: Setting up to remove engine: Used one of my automotive lifts to both test the setup, and extract the engine: Built a stand to hold the engine for teardown and eventual reassembly: Fretting on number 2 rod bearing: Crankshaft is a forging and it's toughness prevailed as it could have been polished and standard bearings installed: Most forward bearing carrier with a little wear/blueing from heat. I'm certain this was lubricant starvation: Second main bearing carrier with substa
    1 point
  16. On Jakes I always check them by running battery voltage right to the head where the wire comes out. Then you can decide which way u need to go.
    1 point
  17. Those are called "oil shields" in the service manual from 1965. I'll check for you tomorrow as it's been a while since they've given me the formal greeting I seemingly command there which is "What the fuck you after asshole"?
    1 point
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