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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/29/2019 in Posts

  1. 7 points
    1978 U model ST tractor with pool ball gear shift knobs at WSG 2014.
  2. 7 points
    Has been upgraded with drive train from early 60's B-61 around 25 years ago 711 diesel with quadruplex power steering maxi brakes pintle hook and 2" receiver hitch with glad hands on rear good box and hoist solid cab, interior and headliner in good condition good set of fenders and many other extra parts included, as well as documentation from the Mack Museum not museum quality but in very good condition (will need tie rod ends to pass inspection) Have owned this truck for nearly 6 years and still enjoy driving it every chance I get but unfortunately I must let it go. $8,000 PM for more info and pics Or Call 434-738-9584 (Landline, no texts)
  3. 7 points
    Fine looking farm truck!
  4. 6 points
    Brightly painted hauler!
  5. 5 points
  6. 4 points
    First year for the K5 Blazer in the GM lineup.
  7. 4 points
    Clearly a black and white situation.
  8. 4 points
    Quiet, almost too quiet..... So its 12:30 pm and I get a call from Mom wondering when my sister is coming to get her(90 and lives in assisted living)? This all in the midst of watching her pull up in front of the house. Doh. I open the door and ask my sister if she forgot something. She has her hands full of a ham plate, her husband has a blank look along with my niece. I say "Mom?" The deer in the headlight looks was priceless. So needless to say we ate an hour late. The Griswalds have nothing on us for a dysfunctional family. Not everyone has a Walton family Christmas. We haven't done presents in years. Even Karen and I don't exchange.
  9. 3 points
    1987 Mack Superliner ad with "Mack diesels up to 500 HP V8 - our Whispering Giant".
  10. 3 points
    Block truck with a Thermodyne 300 Plus under the hood.
  11. 2 points
    A 1923 Mack AC with a 1949 Mack FW and a 1947 Sterling HC 175 on damp spring morning in 2005.
  12. 2 points
  13. 2 points
    With the price of scrap being close to zero, after the cost of cutting them up and trucking to the scrap yard, you will have pretty much no money for the effort. Good thinking! Have a nice day.
  14. 2 points
    In the weeds and not available.
  15. 2 points
    Two super Superliners from 2019 Metro-Jersey show in Augusta, NJ.
  16. 2 points
    Ford impresses. I speak with Ford-Otosan people on a regular basis. The amount of ambition and passion for Ford Trucks among the people there is absolutely amazing. A solid engine, currently offered in 420hp and 480hp versions. Ought to offer a 450hp rating as well. Setting it up to meet Euro-6 or EPA2010 is not problem using an SCR/cooled EGR combination. Purely for Euro-6,, an SCR-only configuration like Scania and Iveco offer is also feasible. Note the air-to-water intercooler (aftercooler) mounted up front. I suspect that, with the current cab, there wasn't space for an air-to-air intercooler. So this temporary until the new, larger cab arrives. Ford was itself behind the creation of the 7.3 and 9.0-liter in-line sixes. The 10.3L and 13L (actually 12.7) were acquired from Fiat Powertrain Technologies (FPT). The 7.3 and 9.0 can meet Euro-6, so I'll say they can be adapted to the close equivalent EPA2010.
  17. 2 points
    This is a photo from my collection. It shows the set-back MH chassis with RH drive at the ED&TC.
  18. 1 point
    I am not 100% ready to sell this but thought I'd throw it up on here to see if anyone had any interest. It is a 1970 R737ST, serial # 1406. Has a NHC 250 Cummins, 422k miles, 13 speed Triplex twin stick transmission. Two pto's, one for single line wet kit, the other for a pto driven winch behind the cab. The truck has been parked in a barn since 1991, I got it out in July and got it going again, one picture still shows the inspection sticker from 1991. I put on new firestone steer tires, new wheel seals, radiator hoses, belts, converted to 12v starter, 3 new batteries, new battery cables, good brakes, all lights work. Interior is in excellent and cab has little to no rust. Steering is straight and true, will run 60 mph down the highway in a straight line with no hands on the wheel. Is a very clean solid old truck, I bought it with plans of working it to pull a lowboy but I have since found a 1990 mack ch613 and I'm going to use it. This truck would be great to fix up or could be put to work. I put an ad on CL but took it off because I kept getting phone calls from foreigners who wanted to export it. I don't wanna see this truck go that way, i like this old truck but I don't use it and hate to see it sit. I don't have to sell it but would like to get a better lowboy and dump trailer and could use the money for that. I might be interested in a trade toward a lowboy, dump trailer or other heavy equipment? Could put some extra money with it for the right trade. I was asking $10,000 obo or I would take the winch off and sell it for $9,000 without the winch. The truck is located in Orleans, IN 47452, about an hour north of Louisville, KY. Call - (812)844-1331. Also have a 91' Mack DM690S tri axle I might sell also, see last picture, it has been used as a site truck so it's a little rough around the edges but runs and dumps. Asking $10,000 obo for it. Thanks
  19. 1 point
    Ford-Otosan Press Release / December 2, 2016 Watch how 13-liter Ford "Ecotorq" engines come to life in at the Ford-Otosan İnönü engine plant. At Ford Trucks, we’re serious about trucking. It's why we designed our Cargo heavy truck range from the ground up to meet your needs and expectations. See your authorized Ford heavy truck dealer today for details, or visit the global Ford heavy truck website at https://www.fordtrucks.com.tr/ .
  20. 1 point
    Yup I'd be all over that ! its as sweet as I remember!
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    A first year 1939 Pete and a extremely rare bird a 1944 KW built during the war in Yakima, Wa. KW's built during WWII are very rare, the Seattle factory was used by Boeing to build air craft so the truck factory was moved to Yakima. Very limited production during the war years, this is the only war bird I have ever seen. The federal is a X13 model.
  23. 1 point
    Probably still better than working a horse and wagon all day!
  24. 1 point
    This pusher may be sitting a spell due to the warm temps and rain this weekend. Not much snow in the forecast around here.
  25. 1 point
    1974 Brockway 359LL log truck. No fake patina here!!!
  26. 1 point
    It's not hard to do but I would not mount to the cab, nor bunk. Strictly mount to your risers. Donaldson makes a nice exhaust splitter to fashion dual exhaust and if you have a tube bender around your area they can fashion the offsets you would need. In years gone past I've built several but had a buddy whom worked a bending shop in Peoria so was inexpensive to do, (for me) at the time.
  27. 1 point
    You begin here: https://www.fordtrucksglobal.com/ ......and click on "Choose your country": https://www.fordtrucksglobal.com/select-languages Then for your purposes, click on one of the countries with an English (EN) version of that website.
  28. 1 point
    I would like to see a Granite with a steel hood and fenders like a B-81.
  29. 1 point
    gr8 pix guys keep m cumm n here B a few Australian V: of the Mack Superliner Thanx Mr Google cya
  30. 1 point
    Another beauty from the Augusta show. Pay no mind to the V12-powered R700 parked next to it.
  31. 1 point
    Most people did that because the sleeve was better for wear than the cast block.You could get a over size piston but some thought the block would be thin after boring it.
  32. 1 point
    here is a couple of pictures of R model steering column in B model, copy the pictures and then open them through microsoft office so you can zoom in close to get a good clear vision, you won't get a clear picture if you just zoom in.
  33. 1 point
    All in primer now! Finished the cowl belt line patches today and primed the lower cowl panels. Now just a lot of small repairs and the windshield area before the body work starts.
  34. 1 point
    That's a Homemade gadget Kevin. Still impressive though.. I believe It's still about & gets to a few Shows in W.A.
  35. 1 point
    Here is an older picture taken at Dick Crispell's new shop on RT 79 east of Ithaca NY. At the time it was taken the orange 761 had a 12V71 which was later replaced with an 8V92T. This truck now resides in the Ed Edministon collection in Dubbo Queenslaqnd Australia. The blue 1948(?) 154(?) on the trailer still lives in the Cortland NY area, is at the Brockway Show each August, and is still used occasionally to bring home another project.
  36. 1 point
    Yup, crank the glass to the bottom. It needs to be BELOW the top of the channel at the top of the door panel. Then, with some wiggling you should be able to persuade it out of the door. My drivers door panel falls out easily. My passenger door takes lots of very carefully said cuss words! I'll let you use the words I use....just can't type them on the forums LOL!!! Start with George Carlins 7 words you can't say on TV...that's a good start.... I see you are using tape on the door to help with not destroying the paint. I finally had to do this with my new doors. Ugh, the old doors were much easier to work on!!
  37. 1 point
    Magnum 2 by Rich Reinhart, on Flickr
  38. 1 point
    Ready for work!, diesel!.. more pics in the ad. I don't usually comment on these, but just want to point out that it is unusual that the guy is willing to lie in an ad with only four words. One has to wonder if it's a gas engine too...
  39. 1 point
    Rebuilt 671 Detroit Diesel, runs great! Fuller RT910, very solid truck overall. Needs a cosmetic restoration...Have a rare exterior cab visor and a Jake setup available at extra cost. $3500-, sold with GA bill of sale due to the year. Located in Northeast GA.
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    id take those battery boxes off and throw them in the scrap aluminum pile and put the eastern ones on with the X on the front. only thing those are good for is fallin on your ass when the cover slips off. otherwise that truck is such a honey. bias ply tires and all.
  42. 1 point
    In this picture? M746 (aka. XM746, HET-70) Designed by Chrysler in cooperation with West Germany's Faun Werke, but Ward La France was low bidder. . .
  43. 1 point
    That would be an MS-250 w/air over hydaulic brakes and they are VERY expensive to maintain/repair. I would pass on the truck over this setup myself. The full air brake trucks, (MS/CS-300 series were very reliable minus the Renault air compressor mounted far too close to the exhaust pipe in the CS-300 series baking the compressor head and causing valve problems, (IMO) which were usually sticking open valves precluding pressure buildup.
  44. 1 point
    Finally got it together this weekend. New seal, races, bearings, drum and shoe and spring kit. The log truck stanchions came in handy for the chain fall. I am a 1 man team and it worked slick. No leaks so I would say that ones done. Guess I will start checking the others when time allows. thanks for the input all.
  45. 1 point
    So KSC-Euro 6? How close is this to US compliance? And this is old generation FIT that Ford builds under license?? Any similarities between this 13 liter and the two smaller (7.3? and 9L)-these are the two that many of us hope would make there way here to end up in 750.
  46. 1 point
    Here's one. I guess it did make it into production. Mack Trucks Australia generally did things their own way. Perhaps the US experience with the shortcomings of the early Cruise-Liners and Super-Liner led them to adopt the tried and tested R model frame for their Cruise Liner, Superliner 1 and 2 and later, the MH Ultraliner. The Australian Value-Liner was also a completely different beast from the US one, again being based on the R model frame. Perhaps the set back axle MH is a kind of COE equivalent of the Aussie Value-Liner which also had a set back front axle.
  47. 1 point
    I agree with you and Dave. I've never swallowed the missing link theory either. If you really want to see the origins of the Super-Liner you need to look at the Cruise-Liner. The first generation Super-Liner is essentially a Cruise-Liner frame with an R model cab and a new hood. The key feature of this frame was the bolt on drop frame at the front which enabled the mounting of big wide radiators and the high hp motors which needed the cooling. Apart from that, the rest of the frame looks like it was pretty much carried over from the RL/RS models. Fittings such as cab mounts, fuel tanks, battery boxes and their brackets all look the same as those on late production RS/RL models and I believe the frame rail section dimensions were the same. I think this makes the Super-Liner the logical evolution of the Mack Western product line and any similarity with the Brockway designs is largely down to the use of the same cab shell. I guess to find out who designed it you would have to look at who was in key design roles at Hayward in the mid 70's. The second generation Super-Liner was a different beast. It had an entirely different frame which it shared with the earlier MH cabover. I think that Mack Western had ceased to exist by the time it came out so the Super-Liner 2 was an Eastern product. By all accounts, the Mk 2 was a much better truck than it's predecessor but, from a layman's view, I still prefer the look of the original with it's round headlights.
  48. 1 point
    Manifold press ga for F&R models- 7MT232, oil temp ga neg ground 140-230-320 degree-3MT237P8,temp sender 64MT146.
  49. 1 point
    44 rears of course came standard with an automatic inter-axle power divider. An air-actuated inter-axle power divider "lockout" was a factory option. In addition, an "inter-wheel" power divider was also available. With this option, rather than the front/rear carriers being CRDPC92/CRD93, they'd be CRD921/CRD931. So with the combination of the two options, your rear bogie would be driving at all four corners for enhanced off-highway mobility.
  50. 1 point
    Ok here we go installing a windshield for a Mack B61. This project costs approximately $425 I had one side of the windshield that was still intact so when I removed everything this past spring I set the glass aside. Went to the local glass shop and had two new pieces cut and a side door glass total $159 with tax. New gasket from Watts $268 with shipping ( used my BMT discount) Stopped back by the glass shop after got the gasket to match up locking strip I bought 12 feet for $7 old one looks smaller just dried out. Old center strip as you can see not much left to it. Had new one made cost $10, Mike put the bend in it same as the old one. Stopped by Orileys and spent $15 on the tool and $23 on 3m Strips Getting started- I applied the butyl strips along the pinch welds, this stuff is really sticky so watch out. Put the gasket on starting in the top center working your way around both the left and right sides. Don't get carried away take you time, as you need the center bar to be centered and with the 3M strips it is hard to move the gasket once it is pushed on. I think a person would catch heck trying to remove and reset. Also with the stick strips you need to be careful as the gasket has a tendency to stick closed. I used a flat tip screw driver that is bent like a J to assist with keeping it open. After setting the gasket make sure the center strip and the cap/cover strip is in place. I loosely screwed it together to help with moving for when I slide in the glass. TIP --You can install and remove the center strip that goes in the gasket before the glass is installed and it actually makes it easier to set the perimeter gasket. I used bubble juice as the lubricant in a spray bottle, it sprays and works well, best of all it is cheap we buy it by the gallon at the dollar store for the kids maybe a $1gallon. It works way better than trying to mix dish soap and water like I have done in the past. I used about half a spray bottle. Wet the gasket on which ever side you want to start on, my fenders are still off so it was easy access. Carefully climb up and orientate the glass to match the opening push the glass into the center strip. Using a wide dull screwdriver or similar tool start near the center and push the gasket out from the inside. The gasket will catch on the edge of the glass and hold it. I installed both sides of the windshield by myself. I held the glass at the lower corner and pushed into the center and flat to the gasket. Make sure to keep the gasket lube during this process. Once the gasket is around the piece of glass you can apply slight pressure to adjust the glass and push into the opening. Repeat the same process on the other side. Once the glass is installed tighten up the center strip screws. Start at the top center using your tool or screw driver, lube the gasket and start the install of the locking strip. As you move all the way around gasket it will go smoothly if you keep it well lubed and rotating or twisting the tool back and forth while maintaining about a 40 degree angle pushing forward. Once at the end or start point again trim, I used my razor knife and cut at an angle and but it up to the other end. Move to the center strip now and with a square end start at the top just below were the other ends are and using the same technique work the locking strip down. The gasket has a pocket at the bottom end and once there cut off at an angle and push the end in the the pocket. That's it other than clean up and wiping the windows. By now my son was home so he gave it a shot and helped me with the rest of the install. I used the Lisle tool model 47000. I picked that tool because it came with additional tips. A single tip tool can cost the same as this one or more. I have done it both ways with a modified screw driver and the tool and by far the tool is worth the expense.
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