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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/20/2020 in Posts

  1. 7 points
    Has been upgraded with drive train from early 60's B-61 around 25 years ago 711 diesel with quadruplex power steering maxi brakes pintle hook and 2" receiver hitch with glad hands on rear good box and hoist solid cab, interior and headliner in good condition good set of fenders and many other extra parts included, as well as documentation from the Mack Museum not museum quality but in very good condition (will need tie rod ends to pass inspection) Have owned this truck for nearly 6 years and still enjoy driving it every chance I get but unfortunately I must let it go. $8,000 PM for more info and pics Or Call 434-738-9584 (Landline, no texts)
  2. 6 points
  3. 4 points
    First year for the K5 Blazer in the GM lineup.
  4. 2 points
    Back at it after a busy season with the new job and a friend's project the consumed a lot of time. But, I haven't quit and jumped back in this week getting organized again. This doesn't look like much , but it's the first repaired panel permanently re-attached. The cab needs to go over on it's back one more time for a bunch small things to be completed and undercoating. I'm very optimistic for having the cab ready for paint come this spring and my motivation is increasing about it>
  5. 1 point
    Yep, what a waste of time and tax payer money, Trump will be President when the next election comes up and hopefully be reelected, Democrats sure care about the average person, just waste more money that WE have to pay back, I cannot even say what I feel honestly about the Democrat/liberal losers because I would most likely get banned for my comments. Relish your day you will regret it.
  6. 1 point
    I have a nice Ultraliner with E9 500 12spd Mack 11/24.5 on aluminum buds. 1990 Rob 403-678-7882 Ab Canada
  7. 1 point
    I am not 100% ready to sell this but thought I'd throw it up on here to see if anyone had any interest. It is a 1970 R737ST, serial # 1406. Has a NHC 250 Cummins, 422k miles, 13 speed Triplex twin stick transmission. Two pto's, one for single line wet kit, the other for a pto driven winch behind the cab. The truck has been parked in a barn since 1991, I got it out in July and got it going again, one picture still shows the inspection sticker from 1991. I put on new firestone steer tires, new wheel seals, radiator hoses, belts, converted to 12v starter, 3 new batteries, new battery cables, good brakes, all lights work. Interior is in excellent and cab has little to no rust. Steering is straight and true, will run 60 mph down the highway in a straight line with no hands on the wheel. Is a very clean solid old truck, I bought it with plans of working it to pull a lowboy but I have since found a 1990 mack ch613 and I'm going to use it. This truck would be great to fix up or could be put to work. I put an ad on CL but took it off because I kept getting phone calls from foreigners who wanted to export it. I don't wanna see this truck go that way, i like this old truck but I don't use it and hate to see it sit. I don't have to sell it but would like to get a better lowboy and dump trailer and could use the money for that. I might be interested in a trade toward a lowboy, dump trailer or other heavy equipment? Could put some extra money with it for the right trade. I was asking $10,000 obo or I would take the winch off and sell it for $9,000 without the winch. The truck is located in Orleans, IN 47452, about an hour north of Louisville, KY. Call - (812)844-1331. Also have a 91' Mack DM690S tri axle I might sell also, see last picture, it has been used as a site truck so it's a little rough around the edges but runs and dumps. Asking $10,000 obo for it. Thanks
  8. 1 point
    So work finally slowed down enough to do a little work on my R model. Previous owner had disconnected the heater core at some time and the windshield wipers were not working. I found an actual radiator shop (hard to find these days) that recored the heater core for me. I had bought a new wiper pivot assembly from Watts about a year and half ago so I put it in and found that the pins for the wiper transmission arms were spaced 1/4" further apart than the original ones so that wouldn't work. The original wasn't actually that worn, the wiper motor was a mess though. I called Rome truck parts and they had a rebuild kit for $22 so I figured I didn't have much to lose trying to rebuild it myself. The inside of the motor was well gunked up with rust oil and crap but cleaned up well. After putting the internal cam valve in wrong about 3-4 times I got it working. Put it back on truck and it works like newish. Going to do the heater box over and repaint the interior next. I looked everywhere for a rattle can that would come close to the green interior color, found a paint code on another thread that NAPA mixed up for me yesterday in a spray can ($24!) and it was pretty close. This morning a friend stopped by and said that the original color looked like Detroit Alpine Green. I had a can of can of engine paint in the cabinet and son of a bitch it's a perfect match. I learn something new every day which means I have to forget something else to make room in my limited brain.. Hoping to get a new paint job and new air seat in her by May. The bright green paint on the heater cover was a reject and had to remove it.
  9. 1 point
    Yup I'd be all over that ! its as sweet as I remember!
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    Happy birth day 41 Chevy hope you have a 100 more
  12. 1 point
    You could try PAI parts they have a good selection of pans for most engines! That said! We compared prices 6 months back and they were similar to the our dealer pricing! MAK240GB5271M4 https://store.paiindustries.com/catalog/details?catalogId=6&catalogTid=10590&page=106&figure=69
  13. 1 point
    Way too nice too be this close to this much salt. Last night before major 1" snowfall.
  14. 1 point
    I think EPA stuff put the demise to a lot of small repair shops, couldn't afford all the new regulations. terry
  15. 1 point
    25 -30years ago you were never more than a few miles from a radiator shop, real automotive machine shop or starter alternator shop. Now not so much. Plastic tanks, and crate engines killed most of them off.
  16. 1 point
    Hi Vlad the kit was a zip lock sandwich bag with the seals and o rings in it, no part number, very informal. I called them and gave them the numbers off the end of the wiper motor and they mailed it out. Their website is rometruckparts.com.
  17. 1 point
    Most of the R models through the years I've seen have had the immersion heater installed and the receptacle cover in the left headlamp bucket as we've seen. I've also seen them around the left front cab mounting, but that probably depends upon customer request.
  18. 1 point
    If the truck was ordered with a block heater, a panel with a pre-punched receptacle hole was installed on the line. Pre- punched panels were also available though parts operations.
  19. 1 point
    This subject has puzzled me for a long time. I asked about it in a thread back in 2014. This was the thread. https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/36092-r-model-hood/?tab=comments#comment-250453 I don't want to confuse things. I just though I would add some more information I discovered since then . It reinforces what Vlad said about different appearance options in the different headlight trim surround's . It appears to me that the eastern hoods are similar . The difference is the extra plastic headlight trim piece . My 1988 doesn't have the extra plastic but my 1985 does. When I took the plastic piece off the hood is the same underneath . The 4 holes under the plastic piece are the same as the holes in the stainless piece on the 1988. Some pics to help show my findings
  20. 1 point
    The problem is northern Va. and the Tidewater area. That's where the majority of the population is and those areas pretty much control the whole state.
  21. 1 point
    Lol I have allot of theories in my head.... If I had to guess I would say it's a K31 with a A/R 1.28 wastegate housing Turbine 77/86 compressor 71/100 which is a great setup. But I like pushing the limits. So early E7 engines are similar to the 12v Cummins that every one seems to play with. Now coming from a few years or experience in the pick-up truck world a fixed timing engine will not spool a turbo up as well as a variable timing engine. Which is what surprised me about other people's turbo options. An Etech engine is vastly different than a mechanical E7 but they offer the same turbo for all. I ended up doing the s475 turbo and installed the smaller a/r housing on it I believe it's a 1.15 that way we still have decent low end torque. That 1.32 a/r housing was really doggy. We have some work on Tuesday with the truck so we will see. I'm curious about the drive pressure though. I think I'm going to put a gauge on it.
  22. 1 point
    Take this picture and put it on the visor of the Volvo l drive. Just so l can remember what a real truck's cab looks like. .....Hippy
  23. 1 point
    Here is what the one looks like in my 79.
  24. 1 point
    In years gone by Cleveland brothers would keep a can of Bonomi if the rings didn't seat quickly when Kenny would run in an engine on the dyno. he would take a little and throw it in the intake on old style engines.
  25. 1 point
    You guys in Virginia need to start standing up real soon.
  26. 1 point
    Do you want the old style (1MR2176A) momentary switch with screw connectors, or the new style (1MR3380) with push-on connectors?
  27. 1 point
    PAI still looks to have them Trent. Part number for the screw on spade connectors is: MSW-4395. Part number for the push on spade connectors is: MSW-4378.
  28. 1 point
    A friend at Rural Retreat, VA is reproducing the Mercury sleeper. PM me for his cell number
  29. 1 point
    5 inch is what Im doing As always we all have a opinion based on what we feel is right A few things you must know is things like how reactive the soil is, the climate, how wet the area is and how dry it gets Does it freeze, apparently this causes the ground to shift quite a lot I know of one slab only 3 inches thick for semi trailers gross 42 tons and its still there 4 years later So there's is lots to consider and what works for one part of the country wont work in another Do your research and dont listen to old wives tails I have seen a lot of sheds were tracked type earthmoving gear is repaired that have train line cemented in level with the floor so it the tracks arent walking on the cement as such Paul
  30. 1 point
    put the plastic down on top of the base, concretor must not add water to the premix concrete in the agitator before or after it is discharged from the barrrel (it weakens the mix design strength and breaks the concrete curing process) VIBRATE THE CONCRETE as it is placed and no cement dust to be spread when finishing the concrete - in time it will crumble and peel - follow this process and you will get a strong dry concrete slab - 6 inches is minimum and 8 inches is extra strength for your long term safety. If you can get the guys to have a slight fall into the center and out towards the front opening, you can pressure wash the slab and the water will run out the front - or to a proper sludge pit drain - this depends on your local authority re washing out workshop floors etc
  31. 1 point
    Fix sensors and see if derate goes away.
  32. 1 point
    6 mil vapor barrier and slab insulation required by most building codes for any accessory building over 1000 S/F
  33. 1 point
    Vapor barrier under the concrete only prevents ground moisture from soaking up through the slab. It doesn't prevent condensation from forming on a cold floor with warm humid air above it. I wouldn't do any less that 6". If there are parts of the garage that won't/can't have trucks parked on them (shelving/tool areas/etc) you can do one layer of rebar in the middle to save $. For truck lanes/parking areas I'd do the rebar at the 2 and 4 inch depths in the concrete. Metal closer than 2 inches to the surface of the concrete can rust & pop the concrete off. You see this on older bridge underpasses frequently.
  34. 1 point
    In the spring if it's really wet I run 2 dehumidifiers. The floor will be damp and I can't have the machines getting rusted up. When I was running the shop two shifts I had heat all the time but I am retired and cant afford to heat it when I'm not doing anything in it. I had rebar and mesh put in the floor. I have no idea what psi concrete was used the guy had a local concrete company and I rebuilt his front axle and resealed the backhoe valve package on his john deere loader backhoe. I payed less than a 1000.00 for 3 concrete truck loads and 5 guys to finish my floor I offered to help and was told I would be in everyone's way just stand back and watch.
  35. 1 point
    Higher PSI also means more brittle, less forgiving to slab flexing. But again, sub grade prep and rebar are King. What concrete can hold on one square inch dirt can only hold on one square foot. (Give or take). Steel rebar and slab thickness help to disperse point loads (i.e. bottle jacks) across a larger footprint underneath the slab. Worth looking at concrete load flex diagrams to understand how concrete is stressed. When a load is put on the slab, the top half of the slab will be in horizontal compression and the lower half will be in horizontal tension. Having rebar in the top and bottom halves of the slab would make a 3000 PSI slab good enough. Concrete has a lot of compressive strength, but not much tensile strength. The rebar in the lower half is what gives the slab tensile strength during flex to prevent cracking.
  36. 1 point
    Obviously the thicker the better if you can afford it. But 6 inch thick is plenty for loaded trucks and excavators and anything else. Everyone I know has 6 inch slabs and have never had an issue. And do yourself a favor. Put down poly vapor barrier and a layer of rigid insulation under your pad. Your floor will stay warm and dry. Makes a huge difference. No damp cold floor to lay on.
  37. 1 point
    And it pays to have the right tools for the job!
  38. 1 point
    It really comes down to good subgrade prep. Up north we have to do a good subgrade of stone because as the ground freezes and thaws the slab needs a "cloud" to float on so that there aren't any pressure points against the underside of the slab. A good base of gravel acts like a mattress to allow the slab to not break during ground movements. In Texas you won't get the freeze thaw cycles we get that are very destructive. I would guess 6-8 inches would be adequate. Rebar on 1ft grid is a great idea, you want it in the middle of the slab depth. I don't care for fiber, I've been told it actually weakens the concrete's actual strength, but I haven't done my research on it. Pour it during cooler temperatures, 60-70 degrees Fahrenheit. Don't pour it wet. A 3.5 inch slump should be workable for a skilled crew if you are pouring a minimum of 6". If they need more workability than that then order the concrete with a mid grade plasticizer. Water is the #1 killer of concrete. It is a catalyst that causes the cement powder to crystalize, thus glueing everything together. The water will leave, and if there is a lot in it you will get shrinkage cracks, you can get spalling, dusting, etc. Plus your floor will not be as dense. 3500 psi is adequate, but 4000 psi will give you a higher cement content that will prolong the durability of the surface. The PSI rating indicates how much weight the concrete can hold before failing. (After a standard 28 day cure).
  39. 1 point
    finished with mirror brackets, sanded them down and shipped them off to the plating shop.
  40. 1 point
    Can't help you, but on Allison automatics you can set the max allowed gear with the arrow buttons. A must with an automatic when driving steep downgrades. Just keep your speed down and use the snub brake technique til you find the problem, don't want anyone killed.
  41. 1 point
    As far as the exhaust bracket for the drivers side, they are NOT easy to find. Your best bet is to get another right side and cut the brackets off that hold the muffler and reverse them to work on the left side. Not that hard to do.
  42. 1 point
    and my opinion is even if trump is a fat head egotist, he is still the better choice than anything the demoncrats have offered in the past 12 years. and so far is the best choice for 2020.
  43. 1 point
    DJC. I am sorry you feel this way. Everyone has there beliefs and opinions. Mine is that more good has been done since trump took office than in 25 yrs.
  44. 1 point
    My grandfather did rigging and hauling, had an Allied Van Lines franchise, and was the Brockway dealer here in Columbus Ohio. Here's a photo of one of his trucks taken in 1964...you can see the belt-drive tag axle. Next to it is an N400, brand new and ready for delivery.
  45. 1 point
    Rebuilt 671 Detroit Diesel, runs great! Fuller RT910, very solid truck overall. Needs a cosmetic restoration...Have a rare exterior cab visor and a Jake setup available at extra cost. $3500-, sold with GA bill of sale due to the year. Located in Northeast GA.
  46. 1 point
    id take those battery boxes off and throw them in the scrap aluminum pile and put the eastern ones on with the X on the front. only thing those are good for is fallin on your ass when the cover slips off. otherwise that truck is such a honey. bias ply tires and all.
  47. 1 point
    Ford impresses. I speak with Ford-Otosan people on a regular basis. The amount of ambition and passion for Ford Trucks among the people there is absolutely amazing. A solid engine, currently offered in 420hp and 480hp versions. Ought to offer a 450hp rating as well. Setting it up to meet Euro-6 or EPA2010 is not problem using an SCR/cooled EGR combination. Purely for Euro-6,, an SCR-only configuration like Scania and Iveco offer is also feasible. Note the air-to-water intercooler (aftercooler) mounted up front. I suspect that, with the current cab, there wasn't space for an air-to-air intercooler. So this temporary until the new, larger cab arrives. Ford was itself behind the creation of the 7.3 and 9.0-liter in-line sixes. The 10.3L and 13L (actually 12.7) were acquired from Fiat Powertrain Technologies (FPT). The 7.3 and 9.0 can meet Euro-6, so I'll say they can be adapted to the close equivalent EPA2010.
  48. 1 point
    We all like nekkid trucks..... And most wimmins!
  49. 1 point
    Ok here we go installing a windshield for a Mack B61. This project costs approximately $425 I had one side of the windshield that was still intact so when I removed everything this past spring I set the glass aside. Went to the local glass shop and had two new pieces cut and a side door glass total $159 with tax. New gasket from Watts $268 with shipping ( used my BMT discount) Stopped back by the glass shop after got the gasket to match up locking strip I bought 12 feet for $7 old one looks smaller just dried out. Old center strip as you can see not much left to it. Had new one made cost $10, Mike put the bend in it same as the old one. Stopped by Orileys and spent $15 on the tool and $23 on 3m Strips Getting started- I applied the butyl strips along the pinch welds, this stuff is really sticky so watch out. Put the gasket on starting in the top center working your way around both the left and right sides. Don't get carried away take you time, as you need the center bar to be centered and with the 3M strips it is hard to move the gasket once it is pushed on. I think a person would catch heck trying to remove and reset. Also with the stick strips you need to be careful as the gasket has a tendency to stick closed. I used a flat tip screw driver that is bent like a J to assist with keeping it open. After setting the gasket make sure the center strip and the cap/cover strip is in place. I loosely screwed it together to help with moving for when I slide in the glass. TIP --You can install and remove the center strip that goes in the gasket before the glass is installed and it actually makes it easier to set the perimeter gasket. I used bubble juice as the lubricant in a spray bottle, it sprays and works well, best of all it is cheap we buy it by the gallon at the dollar store for the kids maybe a $1gallon. It works way better than trying to mix dish soap and water like I have done in the past. I used about half a spray bottle. Wet the gasket on which ever side you want to start on, my fenders are still off so it was easy access. Carefully climb up and orientate the glass to match the opening push the glass into the center strip. Using a wide dull screwdriver or similar tool start near the center and push the gasket out from the inside. The gasket will catch on the edge of the glass and hold it. I installed both sides of the windshield by myself. I held the glass at the lower corner and pushed into the center and flat to the gasket. Make sure to keep the gasket lube during this process. Once the gasket is around the piece of glass you can apply slight pressure to adjust the glass and push into the opening. Repeat the same process on the other side. Once the glass is installed tighten up the center strip screws. Start at the top center using your tool or screw driver, lube the gasket and start the install of the locking strip. As you move all the way around gasket it will go smoothly if you keep it well lubed and rotating or twisting the tool back and forth while maintaining about a 40 degree angle pushing forward. Once at the end or start point again trim, I used my razor knife and cut at an angle and but it up to the other end. Move to the center strip now and with a square end start at the top just below were the other ends are and using the same technique work the locking strip down. The gasket has a pocket at the bottom end and once there cut off at an angle and push the end in the the pocket. That's it other than clean up and wiping the windows. By now my son was home so he gave it a shot and helped me with the rest of the install. I used the Lisle tool model 47000. I picked that tool because it came with additional tips. A single tip tool can cost the same as this one or more. I have done it both ways with a modified screw driver and the tool and by far the tool is worth the expense.
  50. 0 points
    https://www.legacy.com/obituaries/mcall/obituary.aspx?n=sandra-h-yardumian&pid=195034901 For you guys not on the Fazebooks, my mom passed away Saturday 1/11/2020 after a brief illness that was attributed to the dimentia she had been suffering from for the past 4-6 years (maybe longer.) Mom and Dad met on a blind date while in the US Navy. He was aboard the USS Seneca ATF91 and she was a Hospital Corpsman at the Philadelphia Naval Hospital. Dad's ship was a 205' fleet oceangoing tug home ported in Little Creek but they tied up at Pier 3 at the Philadelphia Naval Shipyard often. A buddy of his hooked them up. Mom grew up in Walnutport Pa and her family didn't have two nickels to scratch together. She knew that enlisting was the only way she could get out of dodge and to obtain an education. She enlisted in Allentown Pa. When she went to see the detailer, he asked her where she wanted to go- she said "Germany, Japan, Italy..Someplace foreign and exotic overseas....." She got orders for foreign exotic South Philadelphia and boy was she PISSED at the Navy and for the rest of her life she cussed them like a sailor....But she did meet Dad so that was good or I guess I wouldn't be writing this. With the help of a friend, a flag was hoisted yesterday over the USNS COMFORT, one of the Navy's two hospital ships. The flag is enroute to me as we speak by fedex and should be delivered tomorrow for her funeral on Saturday. If anyone can ever choose to learn the way a close relative dies, pick the sudden, unexpected phone call advising "So and So had a heart attack and has passed away" because this watching someone die for three weeks sucks....I don't know how people can do it for months or a year or more.
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