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  2. It's not only fright and cars coming out of the PoB. There is alot of heavy equipment moved thru there also. Another You Tuber l watch often. Cat machines coming from China. .....Hippy
  3. I'm sure @Joey Mack will be along shortly. Could you look up the part numbers through PAI and see if they are the same part? I guess even if they were the same part they might have different numbers since they were different engine families....good luck
  4. Would anyone know if a model E7-460 Mack motor model year: 1999 with serial number: 11GBA4907P2 would have exhaust valve holes that are same or interchangeable with a 2003 model Mack: AI-300A motor with serial number: 11GBA15672YP1 I realize their are many differences between these motors….im just wondering specifically if Mack E7 and AI-300A have the same valve yokes and pushrods?
  5. Today
  6. CNN not the greatest source IMO but this article isn't really political and is pretty insightful as to how maritime insurance works. Pretty interesting. Who ends up holding the bag for the Baltimore bridge collapse? | CNN Business
  7. Weak valve spring or over-revving the engine. Either will cause the valve to float, which could result in a bent rod.
  8. Yellen walks back Biden’s comments that taxpayers will pay for Baltimore bridge collapse https://www.msn.com/en-us/news/us/janet-yellen-walks-back-biden-s-comments-us-taxpayers-on-hook-for-baltimore-bridge-collapse/ar-BB1kEj4t?ocid=mailsignout&pc=U591&cvid=f97793c0e7bb4786bbd1fcca1ecea735&ei=26
  9. https://thehill.com/homenews/house/4561463-republican-biden-baltimore-bridge-collapse/ .
  10. Thank you everyone for your help and discussion on the sending unit. @JoeH thank you for the pictures! That helps a lot. For the hood hinge, we replaced all the steel except for the hinge itself. We did sandblast and refinish it however. We decided to basically recreate what was already there. I'm not thrilled with the gap between the hood and the cab, but it isn't terrible. We adjusted as much as possible in the ball joints, but the condenser was our limiting factor. We wanted to keep the reinforcement for the fenders so they didn't crack. The only thing we decided to do differently was to keep the steel exposed vs encapsulating it in the fiberglass. I had a picture before the hood was installed but I can not find it. Sorry
  11. Well the bullshit is flying for sure..all the "bad news that means higher prices".... They talk about "Months" for the port being shut down. I saw an interview with a guy from the port authority. He said a 500 ton-yes 500- heavy lift crane will be on site Saturday. The wreckage is localized. The immediate need is to open the channel and they don't have to even remove everything-I would think just get it pulled aside into the shallows along side the bridge. Smit Salvage is a huge company based in Holland also with equipment in Houston. would not surprise me if they were underway yesterday. It would not surprise me if the channel was opened in `10 days. Then anyone see the genius from one of the "elite" schools? Guy had a heavy euro accent but he said words to effect.."not a problem, we have other east coast ports and also big ports on west coast". Guess what...any thing going through an east coast port is sourced through that port because that is what the distance from the source for outbound or the distance for the destination of inbound goods makes Baltimore the most economical port. Bottom line the biggest disruption will be the loss of the bridge to vehicular traffic..but the Port will be operating very soon..again my uneducated guess. So Sleepy Joe, you can stop blaming bad economic news on this tragedy. And KSC, you might be right on a an electronic hack but I would bet lousy fuel or bad fuel system maintenance will be the cause..can't imagine the filter system on a huge marine diesel is as simple as a Ph-8 Fram😎
  12. https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2024-03-28/daimler-truck-and-volvo-face-retrial-in-560-million-cartel-suit?srnd=markets-vp
  13. https://finance.yahoo.com/news/lloyds-london-sees-multi-billion-083924519.html https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2024-03-28/lloyd-s-of-london-sees-claims-in-billions-for-baltimore-bridge?srnd=homepage-americas
  14. Glad you got it working. I think you mentioned your system has fine mesh screens in the fittings. I could see this being the blockage point with cold hydraulic oil.
  15. We got our truck with 415k miles, so no idea how it was from factory, but this is how it was routed when we bought it. "Push" function first T's into the passenger cab mount latch, then splits to go to tilt ram and the driver cab mount latch. "Pull" function just goes to retract the tilt ram. When the cab comes over center and starts coming down on its own weight it creates enough pressure on the "push" circuit to force the latches back open. Once the cab is seated, the springs on the latches hook the cab to keep it locked down. I assume your truck is the same way, but yours is 24 years older than mine. Not sure how the "push" circuit creates the resistance during "pull" function to open the latches, there may be a small orifice the oil has to pass through in order to return to the pump. Not sure why you're having the problem you're having! Something must be acting as a check valve somewhere, or the cylinder is binding!
  16. You can adjust the sending unit. If it reads too low, bend the arm down a little, too high,, bend the arm up a little, put it back in and check it. It's important to make sure the sender is clocked right. So match mark it before removal
  17. They're polished aluminum wheels, old Alcoa wheels. I was finally able to find studs that are the right length for them. The BWP studs seem to be the longest, because they don't have the really large chamfer on the lug nut end (which makes the thread length a little too short) that some of the other brand studs do. So it looks like I'm good now. Thanks for the help. I was able to get new window kits for the vintage Stemco caps on the truck. The 5999 ones fit (2 3/4"), and all of the screws came out ok. I guess mine were completely painted over at some point to make it easier to see the oil level in them, but it seemed to make it harder
  18. I think Mechohaulic is on the right path here. I believe it is a "Variable Resistance Ground" system. The better the Ground, the higher the gauge reads. I am assuming the truck has a separate gauge that is not part of a instrument panel with a circuit board. I am not familiar with Superliners. Would love to have one someday though. I had similar problems on my "93 CH613. This is what I did to troubleshoot the system. It sounds like you did a continuity test on the wiring from the gauge to the sending unit. If you have "0" Ohms resistance, the wiring is good. The gauge likely has three pins on it. Power, Ground, and Signal. The Signal pin would be the wire returning from the sending unit. To test the gauge, remove the gauge from the dash and connect 12v to the Power pin and ground to the Ground pin. Then momentarily jumper the Signal pin to the Ground pin and the gauge should read Full. If not, you likely have a bad gauge. To test the gauge and wiring, reconnect the gauge and disconnect the plug from the sending unit and momentarily connect a jumper across the two pins, the gauge should read full. This means the wiring and gauge is good. To test the sending unit, reconnect the plug and physically move the float up and down, the gauge should respond accordingly. I removed the sending unit from the tank, it was easier for me to work on it. If all of those check out and it doesn't read correctly, I suspect there may be a mismatch between the sending unit and the gauge. My fuel gauge only reads to 5/8 full on a full tank. Sending unit from Mack and Fuel Gauge from PAI. I suspect there is a mismatch or calibration issue going on. I was lucky enough to get a complete wiring diagram from my local Mack dealer, it was very useful in tracking all of this down in the truck. Hope this helps and Good Luck. The truck looks awesome!!
  19. Yesterday
  20. Mixer mounted up, need to tighten mounting bolts and hook electrical plugs, hydraulic pump, water tank rebuild the mixing auger for the back... (worn from use, not collision) I'm also chasing an ABS code that is bugging me. Right steer abs cable ripped so I put a new sensor in, but still have a code. Gotta get this truck ready for inspection!
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