Jump to content

The Mack A Model Registry


Recommended Posts

Looks like the only thing missing from your serial # is the A.It should read A40T5312.

Thats good to know, I wasnt sure just how much may have been missing. should make it a little easier if I ever manage to get it road worthy again, having the complete number for the DMV should be 1 less question.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hello, I'm a new guy to this forum and I'm considering buying an A model that has the chassis #A54S 1854. I didn't get the engine # yet but it's an overhead valve gas mack six cyl. The transmission is a Mack 5 speed with a High/Low splitter. The seller says it's a 1954 year A model which I assume corresponds to the last two digits in the chassis #. I was wondering if anyone knows if the transmission in these trucks was of the smaller flywheel/bellhousing SAE# 2 bellhousing pattern. Any help would be greatly appriciated. Thanks, Jeff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello, I'm a new guy to this forum and I'm considering buying an A model that has the chassis #A54S 1854. I didn't get the engine # yet but it's an overhead valve gas mack six cyl. The transmission is a Mack 5 speed with a High/Low splitter. The seller says it's a 1954 year A model which I assume corresponds to the last two digits in the chassis #. I was wondering if anyone knows if the transmission in these trucks was of the smaller flywheel/bellhousing SAE# 2 bellhousing pattern. Any help would be greatly appriciated. Thanks, Jeff.

A54S means it was built as a gasoline powered tandem chassis. The 1854 is just the last part of the serial number of that chassis and has nothing to do with the series of truck. If the truck had been built as a tandem tractor it could be A54ST1854. I assume the engine is an END510 witch was common in that series and damned near extinct for parts. I am under the impression the A series of trucks were produced in the 1950, 1951, 1952, and 1953 model years. If yours is in fact a 1954, it is probably a carryover from earlier production.

As you asked, it should have the SAE #2 bellhousing but will not use the later standard pad mounting on the side but rather mounts via "ears" to the frame adapters.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A54S means it was built as a gasoline powered tandem chassis. The 1854 is just the last part of the serial number of that chassis and has nothing to do with the series of truck. If the truck had been built as a tandem tractor it could be A54ST1854. I assume the engine is an END510 witch was common in that series and damned near extinct for parts. I am under the impression the A series of trucks were produced in the 1950, 1951, 1952, and 1953 model years. If yours is in fact a 1954, it is probably a carryover from earlier production.

As you asked, it should have the SAE #2 bellhousing but will not use the later standard pad mounting on the side but rather mounts via "ears" to the frame adapters.

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info Rob, Were these 5 speeds with the Hi/low splitter an overdrive trans? If so, what were the OD ratios? Thanks, Jeff

Some were but I can't give you any type of ratio to them.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info Joe, so the tranny is called a 10 speed mono-shift. How do you like driving with this tranny? I would imagine they are similar to the duplex/triplex/quadraplex tranny's. I'm considering re-powering this truck with cummins 5.9 that I already have not only for the scarcity of parts for the END510 gas engine, but also there are flywheel covers available to connect the cummins 5.9 to the SAE#2 bell/clutch housing on the 10 speed mono-shift tranny. From what I've read the diesels used a SAE#1 flywheel cover. However, I imagine the ratios are the same between the gas and diesel versions of this tranny. If I go ahead with the engine swap planned, I would be glad to help anyone needing parts for there A model.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info Joe, so the tranny is called a 10 speed mono-shift. How do you like driving with this tranny? I would imagine they are similar to the duplex/triplex/quadraplex tranny's. I'm considering re-powering this truck with cummins 5.9 that I already have not only for the scarcity of parts for the END510 gas engine, but also there are flywheel covers available to connect the cummins 5.9 to the SAE#2 bell/clutch housing on the 10 speed mono-shift tranny. From what I've read the diesels used a SAE#1 flywheel cover. However, I imagine the ratios are the same between the gas and diesel versions of this tranny. If I go ahead with the engine swap planned, I would be glad to help anyone needing parts for there A model.

Hi there, the engine you probably is not an END 510 as I stated earlier. The D would mean diesel and the mistake was mine. The Mack designation for a gasoline engine was EN 510 without the D in the nomenclature. Also the transmission used behind a gasoline engine was indeed a "Monoshift", where the same transmission behind a diesel engine was a "Unishift" but they are one in the same that I've seen.

Sorry for the confusion.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi there, the engine you probably is not an END 510 as I stated earlier. The D would mean diesel and the mistake was mine. The Mack designation for a gasoline engine was EN 510 without the D in the nomenclature. Also the transmission used behind a gasoline engine was indeed a "Monoshift", where the same transmission behind a diesel engine was a "Unishift" but they are one in the same that I've seen.

Sorry for the confusion.

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No confusion at all Rob, I figured the "D" in the nomenclature was for diesel but being new to this forum I wasn't sure. So, is this monoshift tranny any good? Is it shifted like the duplex/triplex/quadraplex? Since I'm not going to be hauling significant weight around, I'm not going to need a 9.30:1 first gear at all. As for the other 4 speeds, couldn't I just leave the splitter in HI and just shift it like a 4 speed or would it be best to use it to split each gear 2nd/Low then 2nd/HI and so on? Thanks, Jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No confusion at all Rob, I figured the "D" in the nomenclature was for diesel but being new to this forum I wasn't sure. So, is this monoshift tranny any good? Is it shifted like the duplex/triplex/quadraplex? Since I'm not going to be hauling significant weight around, I'm not going to need a 9.30:1 first gear at all. As for the other 4 speeds, couldn't I just leave the splitter in HI and just shift it like a 4 speed or would it be best to use it to split each gear 2nd/Low then 2nd/HI and so on? Thanks, Jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rob, didn't the mono-shift/uni-shift tranny have just one stick? This particular A-54 has a two sticks and the shift pattern printed above the windshield shows a 5 speed pattern on the left and a 2 speed pattern on the right. Thanks, Jeff

You are correct in your assumption. There is a conventional duplex in your truck if it has two shifters. It is probably a TRD-67X series being gasoline powered. This is a smaller variant.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Thought I would update my posts about my old Mack. A couple of months ago when all the snow went away I got back down to the quarry to play with the Mack. Took the carb apart and found that the accelerator pump does have an adjustment on it, so, I played with that a bit and also played with the timing. That seemed to cure the hesitation when hitting the gas, now I've got good throttle response and of course that makes it a lot easier to shift those gears. I was so happy! Unfortunately, for the last month or so it has been raining, and raining, and more rain. Yesterday, I heard on the news that the creek that borders the quarry had flooded. Drove down earlier this evening to see what had happened, not good. The water had come up about 4 inches above the floorboards, engine is filled with water and I assume the transmission and rear end are also topped off. Depression has set in and of course it is lightening out and raining again. I still have hope that if it ever stops raining that I can drain the water and hope that it has no severe damage. Has anyone here encountered this before? When I drain the crankcase should I also pull the plugs and put some oil in there, hand crank the engine before attempting to start it? Any ideas?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thought I would update my posts about my old Mack. A couple of months ago when all the snow went away I got back down to the quarry to play with the Mack. Took the carb apart and found that the accelerator pump does have an adjustment on it, so, I played with that a bit and also played with the timing. That seemed to cure the hesitation when hitting the gas, now I've got good throttle response and of course that makes it a lot easier to shift those gears. I was so happy! Unfortunately, for the last month or so it has been raining, and raining, and more rain. Yesterday, I heard on the news that the creek that borders the quarry had flooded. Drove down earlier this evening to see what had happened, not good. The water had come up about 4 inches above the floorboards, engine is filled with water and I assume the transmission and rear end are also topped off. Depression has set in and of course it is lightening out and raining again. I still have hope that if it ever stops raining that I can drain the water and hope that it has no severe damage. Has anyone here encountered this before? When I drain the crankcase should I also pull the plugs and put some oil in there, hand crank the engine before attempting to start it? Any ideas?

Get the water out as soon as possible. The water will settle to the bottom right near the drainplugs. If the truck is where you are going to work on it then drain it there. If not just crack the drainplugs loose till oil starts to run out after the water then tighten the plugs back up. Anyway don't leave the water in there as things will start to rust. Hopefully nothing is stuck or frozen from rust.

If you can drive the vehicle for a spell things will get warm but I would just get the truck to where you can service it and drain the fluids, then refill after letting them drain for a couple hours to overnight if possible. If things still move chances are there is no real damage but do get the water out as quick as possible.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advise Rob. I went back down to the quarry on Friday and drained the fluids, got 8 gallons of water out of the engine, 2 gallons out of the transmission and another 2 gallons out of the rear end. Pulled the plugs and shot some oil into the cylinders then let it sit while I cleaned up the rest of the campsite. Refilled the fluids and cranked it over with the plugs out to try to blow anything out of the cylinders. Put the plugs back in and it pretty much fired right up. :thumb: Seems to smoke a little more than it used to so I got it warmed up then let it cool, then warm and cool again in the hopes that the rings might reseat again. I don't drive it enough to worry about oil consumption and this just might keep the bugs down! Then I bled the brakes to flush any water out of there and took it for a test drive. Seems to run just fine so I'm happy again. Now I can get back to gathering firewood and grilling out, pictures attached!

post-4723-070126600 1277696555_thumb.jpg

post-4723-066011300 1277696584_thumb.jpg

post-4723-088014300 1277696609_thumb.jpg

post-4723-058728300 1277696645_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Hi Andy,

Here is the chassis # I think is a Model A Mack in Spartanburg, S.C. 75 A 1029 I was told it is a 750 gpm pumper. I hope I am right.

Ray

Tinman,

Can you e-mail me about this rig? The SN you listed is for my rig, not the 75A in SC.

Fxfymn

Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi i'm the proud owner of a 1952 Mack A-30. It was a water tanker for the La Rosa F.D.

Was single axle but has a weird after market tandem setup on it to hold the extra weight of a full tank. i will get some pics of the truck and all other info to you soon. I'm in Ontario, Canada and right now the truck has a foot of snow on it but will get serial# soon.

Great site and keep up the good work.

Dan

post-7610-0-62717600-1294287186_thumb.jp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...