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Rob

Drag Link And Pitman Arm:

9 posts in this topic

Another member helped me out last week with a power steering gear for my RL797L. The donor truck was an early 80's "RS600" series "Valueliner". The drag link is a couple of inches too short for my application and I'm thinking I can stretch that to right amount. Question is this: the pitman arm ball has about a .020 circular depression in the for and aft sides from normal wear. Is the ball itself replaceable, or is the complete arm serviced? Also, are there drag link rebuild kits and boots still available?

Thanks,

Rob

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Another member helped me out last week with a power steering gear for my RL797L. The donor truck was an early 80's "RS600" series "Valueliner". The drag link is a couple of inches too short for my application and I'm thinking I can stretch that to right amount. Question is this: the pitman arm ball has about a .020 circular depression in the for and aft sides from normal wear. Is the ball itself replaceable, or is the complete arm serviced? Also, are there drag link rebuild kits and boots still available?

Thanks,

Rob

I know I shouldn't,but can't seem to help myself...

A. I have no idea-but I have had situations where I was lacking a couple of inches and made up the difference by other means.

B. I don't know.

C. I have no clue.

D. I would disregard this and wait for Herb or James to reply...sorry for wasting everyone's time-I must be off.

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Rob not sure if this will help but When I removed the manual box and installed my power steering box I just used my trucks stock draglink/pitman arm. the output splines of the new power steering box were the same for the stock pitman arm. After installed it was pointing to about "6 o'clock" when the wheels were pointed straight. I did not need to source diffrent parts for the swap.

Basicly you need to check if the draglink from the Valueliner is the same length as the one on your RL? the only thing I can think that would make it diffrent is that you may have a diffrent front engine support and rad support and the new box may be located a few inches +/- of where it normaly bolt to. on my RS I had to drill 2 or 4 new holes (cant recall)in the rail and add 1/2" washers to 2 of those holes because of where my engine/rad mount was at. Luckly my mount had indents in them to note where to drill holes for a power steering box. I can get pics if it helps

Trent

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Rob not sure if this will help but When I removed the manual box and installed my power steering box I just used my trucks stock draglink/pitman arm. the output splines of the new power steering box were the same for the stock pitman arm. After installed it was pointing to about "6 o'clock" when the wheels were pointed straight. I did not need to source diffrent parts for the swap.

Basicly you need to check if the draglink from the Valueliner is the same length as the one on your RL? the only thing I can think that would make it diffrent is that you may have a diffrent front engine support and rad support and the new box may be located a few inches +/- of where it normaly bolt to. on my RS I had to drill 2 or 4 new holes (cant recall)in the rail and add 1/2" washers to 2 of those holes because of where my engine/rad mount was at. Luckly my mount had indents in them to note where to drill holes for a power steering box. I can get pics if it helps

Trent

Hi Trent, the original drag link is splined differently than the replacement power steering gear. Also, the original drag link has a torque link installed as the truck has "Air-O-Matic" steering which doesn't work well. The V8 front crossmember is right in the way to install the upper bolt in the gear housing so I plan to move the gear itself forward about 1/2" to allow clearance. This should allow for free swing movement of the pitman arm without contacting anything. I have another pitman arm from a "L" series Ford truck that is only about 1/8th" longer so it also could be used. I kept this part knowing it is good. Now that I think about it, I also have the drag link in the shop that is longer than a Mack link. The Cat powered RL has the same setup I'm going to so reference is easy to look at.

Thanks,

Rob

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Rob that ball your talking about can be pressed out but you cant buy a new ball. My freind Alvie took one out of another arm and pressed it in and then welded it.I my self dont have the nerve to try somthing like that.That ball is pressed in and then swedeged over on the back side i would think its cause the factory dont want to weld it.

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I know I shouldn't,but can't seem to help myself...

A. I have no idea-but I have had situations where I was lacking a couple of inches and made up the difference by other means.

B. I don't know.

C. I have no clue.

D. I would disregard this and wait for Herb or James to reply...sorry for wasting everyone's time-I must be off.

A. Never had that problem till "Momma" whacked my nuts. Don't need the length any longer.

B. I don't know either; hence the reason I asked.

C. I'm fantastically lost here.

D. I'm certain, Glenn, James, or Herb could put me on the right track.

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Rob that ball your talking about can be pressed out but you cant buy a new ball. My freind Alvie took one out of another arm and pressed it in and then welded it.I my self dont have the nerve to try somthing like that.That ball is pressed in and then swedeged over on the back side i would think its cause the factory dont want to weld it.

Hi Glenn, that makes me wonder if the ball could be pressed out, turned 90 degrees to a new wear surface, then welded back into the arm? Might destroy the surface hardening of the ball end.

Rob

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as they say, always something... I have never had to mess with diffrent pitmarms or splines. I must have gotten lucky on my swap! I forgot that you have the V8 is that mount diffrent than the inline engines?

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as they say, always something... I have never had to mess with diffrent pitmarms or splines. I must have gotten lucky on my swap! I forgot that you have the V8 is that mount diffrent than the inline engines?

Yes, the front mount crossmember is aluminum and much thicker in section than the steel ones. Also this one runs straight across the truck.

Rob

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