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funkyfullwidth

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  1. How much side to side movement is tolerable between the leaf springs and the shackles? Also there's a rubber pad under the leaf springs in the rear end. I can move one side around, but the other side is tight. The truck is sitting on a slight side to side slope in the garage... would that make a difference, or is something wrong?
  2. I replaced the motor. And it worked flawlessly about ten times. I put the cover back on and parked it, tried it, nothing... I retightened the solenoid to the case and it worked. Put the cover back on and nothing. I have continuity between the positive post on the motor and the case... Any ideas what's goin on here? I'd think a short would trip the breaker. Why would it work, then all of a sudden not?
  3. Well i played with it for a few hours. I should have just stuck with my initial guess of a bad motor. It's an on/off/on switch located in the cab. Theres one power wire (green) that connected to vbatt at the solenoid. That feeds power to the switch. When the switch is pressed up or down the green feeds power to the "tickle" wire to the solenoid which energizes it sending power to the motor. Also with the switch pressed up or down the green wire also sends power to either the "up" or "down solenoid." When i say the fuel tank had power, i mean it had power. With a test light, one end on the negative of the battery, and the other on the tank, the light lit up. What i think happened, was that the motor shorted out internally, and basically made the whole truck "live"; so to speak. It had me way thrown off. But I got a new motor, new solenoid, and a new switch, just itching to get installed. I think i just needed to write it all out to help me ha ha... Thanks!
  4. A guy came back today and said that his tarp was stuck. The switch felt funky, so i replaced it. Now the motor doesn't work. I changed the solenoid and still nothing... The motor kicked on once or twice but no piston movement. Also, with the switch on, with a test light i have power on the fuel tank...Whats goin on here? Does anyone happen to have a wiring diagram for a tarp pump motor?
  5. When I took the inspection cover off a few thin peices of metal fell out. I didn't bother trying to adjust it at all. Me and another guy replaced the clutch yesterday. Took a little over 8 hours. Including the hour it took to send out the flywheel and a pizza break. I felt that was good time. After getting everything out there was even more metal in the bell housing. Apon inspection it looked like one of the clutch discs were installed backwards. A few of the dampner springs had a nice groove worn through them. This truck was bought new in 2000 and i'm told was the original clutch.... Shame on you Mack..
  6. Is it necessary to adjust these every now and again? And for adjustment do you have to remove the springs? thanks for the replies.
  7. while servicing a 2000 mack cl713 i found that both trunion covers were cracked. One of them cracked worse then the other with chunks missing. A few of us at the shop just thought it was from a rock or something. After I pulled off the covers I found that the nuts were loose. Is a routine adjustment of these necesarry? How do you check for wear, and/or how often is a camel back overhault necesary? Also, what's the purpose of the spring loaded screw that's on the cover? sorry for my ignorance, figured this'd be the best place to ask. Once i asked a guy at work what was behind the covers... He told me, "grease, just grease." Nice....
  8. That's assuming that the last knucklehead who tried to adjust the clutch didn't mess with the linkage though. That would be assuming from the factory linkage/cable adjustments. While doin one of the pete clutch adjustments I was told that the linkage and clutch brake were replaced not too long ago. They forgot to tighten one of the jam nuts, or just didn't tighten it enough. I had to adjust the linkage and the pressure plate to get the right free play and brake adjustment. So basically, if i adjust the pressure plate to get the right free travel and the clutch brake is more then 1/2 or 9/16 whatever spec is, the clutch is no good? I can't see that being the case everytime... Is there a general rule of thumb for the clutch brake? I've always considered that with the clutch pedal fully depressed the clutch brake should just grab on to a .010 feeler gauge. Is that accepted across the board?
  9. Well i got a 2000 mack cl with some serious clutch issues. There is no free pedal at all. I've adjusted clutches in a few peterbilt 379's that went smoothly. This one has a cable that's run from the pedal to inside the clutch area. Basically, is there any other components compared to the peterbilts that i should be aware of? And is the procedure basically the same? 1/2 inch for clutch brake and 1 1/2- 2" of free pedal? Any help is of course appreciated.
  10. I found my problem.. I had 2 push tubes installed incorrectly. One bent real bad the other one was fine though. Installed a new tube, adjusted the lash, same way I did before and it fired right up and ran mint.. Thanks for all the input!
  11. Would installing the wrong fire rings for one Head make it run like this?
  12. There aren't any markings on the flywheel. At least not any that line up with the damper markings. I took the rails off when I had the head off too replace a head gasket. The pointer doesn't appear to be bent. To make sure I was on compression I used a little sliding ruler to see which push rods were lower. could part of the problem be air still in one or more of the fuel lines?
  13. This truck is winning. I set the lash by starting on tc on the damper for cylinder 1. Then move down the line 5,3,6,2,4. After replacing the starter and a battery cable out finally started and easily at that. The motor knocks real bad. I pulled the valve cover and it just seems screwy.. some of the valves seem to open way to far when not on that stroke to adjust but theyre perfect when I rotate to adjust them. Also when it started giving it throttle didn't do anything, no change in rpms. Am I lookin at a bigger issue here?
  14. That's what i thought. No dynatard on this motor. Another thing though. What does the bolt in the center of the number 1 rocker arm mount do. The one that pins the shaft. Does that affect valve lash. and how do you adjust that if it does. Thank you for the help so far.
  15. Hey, first post. My names rob. I've been an auto mechanic for a few years now but don't have too much experience workin on diesels, let alone bigger trucks. I've run into an issue setting valve lash on a 92 mack cab over with the e7300. I don't have alot of know how on mechanic lash adjusters and how to set them properly. The vibration dampener has timing marks as well as cylinder markings on it. I've been turning the motor til it ligns up with the marks, then setting the intake valve for that cylinder, then moving it to the next one and setting that and so on and so forth in firing order sequence. But it seems like on the next go around for the exhaust valves sometimes their too tight, sometimes they open up quite a bit. I'm just not sure what i'm doing wrong. If anyone could walk me through setting valve lash i'd be much appreciative. Also, how can you tell if a motor has dynatard. I don't see a sylenoid attached to the rocker arm rail, or anything else for that matter. Thanks in advance Rob...
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