brettj3876

Not on an AC but a plain ole 1999 E-tech 460. It definitely woke it up some. Think it cost 1400 from Rochester diesel. It's too bad nobody can do custom tunes for the E-7s Detroit and cat have a bunch of reputable custom tuners. Send them your ecm and tell them what you want done. Would be nice if we could do that Lol

Yeah I kinda figured that was a vmac. Right now we have the timing at 20 degrees. Might try bumping it up to 22 and see how it likes it. When we first had it at 16-17 degrees it didn't like it at all, too far retarded. Right now we're averaging 6.2-6.3mpg running all hill country. Closer to 7 if we run all light loads for the week Fun fact, I found the tag off a ME-7 650hp marine engine. 15.3:1 compression and 23 degrees timing I like how the mechanical 3406b/c have the timing advance with the governor so it advances it as rpms go up instead of fixed time

That pic is for the mechanical right not vmac? I can't see it very good on my phone. Do they have some sort of timing advance like cat does on their inline pumps? I remember some of the E-6s being around 19-21 degrees. I was under the assumption that all the e7 mechanicals used the same P7100 not the Robert Bosch or AM I have the timing at 20 degrees right now. Started out at 16 and that was too retarded....ran like shit With that low of timing it has to have some sort of advance as it goes up through the rpm.

That 95 being a full mechanical would be a P7100. Not the semi electronic pump with the electronic gov housing. I don't have a book on hand but the mechanical ones were in the area of 17-21 degrees fixed time.

Yeah and got a new charge air cooler. No boost leaks, just too much fuel for that small turbo. That was if you lugged it below 1400. Keep it above that and about 950 was the max

Before the inframe and before we converted it back to a mechanical engine we had the blixxton. The egt's would climb super fast, you had to constantly watch the pyro and back out of it and drop a gear. It would easily go past 1100 if you didn't pay attention.

Dad's 1971 F700 had the ole 237 maxed out. He said the turbo looked bigger than other 237s he saw. The company he worked with had all macks from 237s to 315s. This was back in 1982. He said his would slightly pull away from the 315s and 318 Detroit's. Then he got a 74 U model 237 and said it was nothing compared to the 71

Get a pyro if you don't have one. You will need it with the stock turbo. That stock turbo will be out of its efficiency range. To do it right I'd also do a bigger turbo that will lower your egt's and stage 2 Rochester injectors. The injectors won't supply anymore fuel than the pump will flow. But turning up the pump with stock injectors will give it a longer pulsewidth (meaning more time to deliver the fuel, thus increasing egt's and in theory retarding the timing because fuel is still being squirted in closer to TDC). Stage 2 injectors will squirt the fuel in faster and give it a better burn. I would go with a S475 (75mm) with a 1.15 exhaust housing or a 1.32/ The s475 comes with the 1.32 housing and you can get it for 650-700ish OEM borg warner. The 1.15 exh housing can be bought separately for 200-250. It will have a quicker spool up but won't breathe as good on the top end. As far as timing I would leave it alone at 1st and ask Antrim what they would do. They'll probably say don't bump it more than 2 degrees. We have the pump opened up all the way and all the mods I just listed. The guy that built it put in different barrel and plungers (same 12mm but they came out of some AG equipment, that's all he'd tell us) All this was done during an inframe over 200k ago with 15.3:1 pistons. Doesn't burn any oil between changes. Little less than half gal. Which is normal consumption. 170 thermostat and it won't see over 200 degrees on a hot summer day running in hill country. And pyro won't go over 950-975 Remember when you turn up a diesel you want to run a little higher rpm than stock. Even though it will have power down low like a maxidyne don't lug it below 1350 for any length of time. Lugging a turned up engine will kill it faster than anything else. I personally don't take it lower than 1350 unless I'm just about to top a hill. Respect the extra ponies and it'll last just as long as stock.

Have it disabled on the 93 full mechanical. On the P7100s is it different? They call it an aneroid ours looked worn out so we blocked it off. No big deal if you're an actual driver and not just a steering wheel holder. Ease on into it and it hardly smokes. Mash it and it'll turn the sky black. Definitely has instant response

The 60 series turbo people refer to isn't the stock 60 series turbo. It's what a lot of the guys put on a Detroit after tuning the ecm. It's a BW S475 (171702). But you do need more fuel to run that turbo with the 1.32 housing. You can also put a 1.15 housing on it. You'd probably enjoy that housing more for better spool up and you really wont lose much on top. Needs bigger injectors to run the 1.32 housing That S475 you can get for 650-700

Blixxton on the 99

I would like to do something like that. Or have it mounted on the passenger side mirror. I'd like to get another spotter mirror and mount it on top of the mirror to see if it's putting out a haze on a hard pull.

I'll have to find the vid I've got one cracking the throttle a few times right after the conversion. It does start a little bit harder with the fixed timing but not that noticable until it reaches about 10 degrees outside. No place to plug in down at the yard.

Temps are loaded. Fan comes on at 195 I believe but I always turn it on at the bottom of a hill. On a really hot summer day it might see 205-210 for a few minutes No a FASS won't do anything, the pump is maxed out and you can't get anymore without opening it up and swapping in different barrels/plungers. Bigger turbo moving more air so less EGT. Timing also plays a role. Advanced will be lower EGT but higher cylinder pressure/temp. Retarded is higher EGT and more boost because it's dumping fuel in later closer to TDC before it fires.

It does but the electronic pump flowed more fuel believe it or not. Has slightly less ass than before but we're going to have another pump built. The guy that put together this pump has a core were gonna buy and build one that flows just a tad more, that's all I'll say for now. Factory had 16.9:1 pistons and now it has 15.3:1 (that's what the 650 marine engines run) If you ran the high comp 16.9 or 16.5 I don't think it would live very long if you weren't careful. This right now is setup so you can have your foot to the floor and pyro won't go above 950 down around 1350-1400rpm. You really have to work it for the water temp to get to 200. Has a 170 T-stat We pull vans around Pa NY NJ home every day