wrenching4life

Thanks for all your input, I appreciate the responses.

Black in black I would like to give that guy a shout if you have his contact info. Im told what I need is a LIPE 1. What clutch do you run in your truck? I also heard that Dale Francis has a clutch set up he uses that requires the flywheel to have some custom machining done to it, but its supposed to be rated for big power.

Yea the motor has been modified, iv done a lot with it, it's well over factory spec. I had no complaints with the LIPE that was in it just wish the throwout bearing didn't decide to pack its bags and head south.

Hey all looking for some imput for a clutch, currently our Superliner has a LIPE clutch but the throw-out bearing let go and now I am looking for a replacement clutch. Im having a hard time locating someone that sells a clutch that will handle the torque our E9 makes. The LIPE supposedly is rated at 2400 ft lbs. so I figure I should shoot for that rating or better. The truck is street driven, and hauls heavy. I dont want it to slip and I need it to hold the power! The part Number on the LIPE is 380 702L0989 Thanks all.

Well finally got the last two lines bent, polished and mounted, guess what now I have two lines leaking past the threads at the head! One on each side of the engine, I can't win. Does anyone else make oversized lines? I doubt they could be welded up, there is not much room for a weld in there the way that they make them

The reason that made me think my friend was having a spring issue was also that when we got all our engine parts from Dale Francis to do the top end of our engine he also highly recommend putting a spring in, my oil pressure was fine really about where it is now, it may be a bit higher now but the spring was worn. The old spring is the one in the back and the new one is in the front, sure looks like a difference to me. Those shiny spots on the old spring are spots where the coil it worn thin. So before I was going to tell my friend to pull his pan and check the spring I figured I'd see what you guys had to say about it.

I talked to Columbus diesel, Dan Magers and he says the factory torque spec is fine and can not explain why this is happening. I'm waiting my the last two lines and they will all be brand new, he also said that I may have to put an extra mounting clamp up by the pump where they are breaking, anyone done that? Anyone have pictures of how they routed there's? Thanks all!

Hey all asking for a friend, just wondering if a broken oil pump pressure relief spring would cause low oil pressure, seems like it would. the truck in question is around 40 lbs at governed rpm and about 30 at idle. Book spec says that's low at governed rpm. My truck as around 80-90 at governed rpm and about 40 at idle, but I have a brand new oil pump pressure relief spring in it. Any thoughts? An yes I put a mechanical gauge on it to check. thanks all

Well Columbus diesel is standing behind there product once again, there going to make me up 2 more lines. So I guess we will see how these ones go back in black, where do you adjust the needle lift your talking about? Is that within the injector?

Francis Engineering "built" my injectors, I know on the outside there a Bosch body. I also know that when I was having the "tick" sound in the #8 injector I pulled and sent the injector to Columbus diesel because I did not get any response from Francis Eng., I then sent the injector to Dan Magers at Columbus diesel and he said they had not seen valve tips like the ones I had. And was not able to repair it due to the fact he would have to try to source the part. I remember Dale telling me when I was ordering them that they were something like a Bosch body and ambac internals

Unfortunately I don't, I wish I did I think there is a lot more to work with, for instance my gross weight is 130 with a big machine on the lowbed and the highest I can get the pyrometers is 800-900° as far as the fuel lines go iv had 2 fail and replaced them, Columbus diesel and myself talked it out and determined that it may have been bad flares so he replaced the other 6.( I just had to send him the tube nuts off the old lines) I get them back, bend them up just like factory sand them and them polish. I re installed the new 6. I fire the truck and now the first one I replaced months ago is leaking at the injection pump like shooting out like a sprinkler. This is exactly what they all have done they seem to crack right at the flare at the injection pump. I don't know what else I can do, the fit an thread in perfectly, I don't have to force anything. Any thoughts I'm running out of ideas and sanity Thanks all

Back In Black Pulling: the factory spec is: nut at injection pump: 25ft lbs Clamp screw at cyl head: 35ft lbs nut on clamp screw: 15ft lbs are these the specs you follow? Or close to? These are the specs iv been torquing them to.

Hey all, other than the compressor being worn out, what else would cause oil to come out the air intake on the compressor. It's coming out bad enough that it is oil soaking the air filter to the point it's collapsing. thanks for your help!

Back In Black Pulling, I have the same lines as you and I keep having a problem with the lines splitting right at the flair at the injection pump. Francis engineering tweaked my ambac pump and I have injectors done by them as well. I bent my lines the same as the OE Mack and ran them in the factory holders/clamps. Perhaps I'm just having just poor luck, have you removed your lines and re installed them at all? I cracked the third line in less than a year (less than 4K miles) on my way home from Gerharts P.S. That was one heck of a launch at Gerharts this past weekend! Your truck is very impressive!

Hey all another E9 question that has me puzzled, is anyone using oversized stainless steel injection lines on their E9? If so what injection pump do you have, and have you ever had an issue with them? I'm curious thanks all!