engine2quarters

At the time of my purchase, my NAPA guy had K&D. I don't think he has them now, but can usually get whatever I need in very short time. Also try other local parts guys, they may have K&D or a close 'cousin' to what you're looking for.

Took the antique Mack out of the garage to give her a bath yesterday. Real dirty from sitting for 2 - 3 years. Tried to get her back in, she just wouldn't start. Gas guage ready 1/2 full. Thought fuel filter might be clogged, so changed that out. Then, went and bought a couple gallons of regular fuel, just incase. $20 bucks latere, she's back in the garage. That's 5 gallons at $4.05, the cheap stuff. She's sitting there for another couple years at that price. Add to the fuel price, the insurance, plates and state inspection fees. Figures out to around $4.78+ per mile.

Have you looked in the NAPA Lighting or the Truck-Lite catalogs? My '45 EF/EG has a fender light, looks like a roof ICC light. Found replacment assemblies at the corner NAPA store, and replacement 'plastic' lenses there, too. If the exisitng lens has a number on it, the amber lens usualy is the same number followed by "A". My lens was NAPA/Signal Stat 9078, changed over to 9087-A. K+D has a very close 'cousin' in shape, attachment and lens.

Don't forget to check in with the keeper of the Mack 'ownership' log. I think it's andy from Oz, down under. He has a posting at the start of the forums. I have a 1945 type 45 pump up here near Boston, MA. Closed cab, 6-volt, with a Continental EN-330 6-cylinder gasoline engine, 4 speed tranny. It's sitting in the barn in storage, collecting dust. Firemack has the info. I still can't locate my number on the right side of the frame yet. The previous owner night have removed it along with all the other numbers that could be used to find parts. Anyways, post up some pictures when you have them.

Hmmmm. Looks like a type 45 Mack Triple Combination, possibly built at Mack, New York, New York. I suspect a Hale ZL-25 500 gpm pump, also a Continental EN-300 or EN-330 6 cylinder gas engine. 5 speed (creep, 1,2,3,4 +R), 750 x 20 tires. Looks like its got a very small booster tank, maybe 50 - 100 gals. just under the (black) booster reel. Bet the booster hose is garden hose thread, too. Nice rear step (red) booster reel. Picture looks like it hasn't been changed drastically from factory issue. No chrome, since it was the 'war years'. The ladder hangers are dark/light brass if you scrape the paint off. Siren is also brass, 6 volt, type 20(?). One rearview mirror, original 'lollipop' style. Should also be 6 volt positive ground system unless it has been changed over. It's not that rare, there are quite a few still around. The price seems high (to me) unless it runs, doesn't blow smoke, tranny works as does the pump, and the tires are all good. I bought mine in 1977 for under $2K, but it started, ran, pumped water thru 3 lengths of hard suction, and came with ladders, extra stuff (extinguishers, some hose and nozzles) and 3 sections of hard suction. We drove it 50 miles home. But that was back in '77. If it doesn't have a 'good' title, it might be hard to get registered, depending on what state you're in. If the engine needs work, parts are available, some quite expensive. I had an EN-330 engine rebuilt 25 years ago for $2500 because the bearing babbit was coming out into the oil. I re-did the clutch and resurfaced the flywheel a couple years ago for around $700. Water pump rebuld ran $400 in '07. A new pump was quoted at $700. Not cheap. Prices didn't include my removal/install labor/time. Then I had to make a place to work on it and to store it. It should weight in somewhere around 14K pounds gross vehicle weight. Mine is 12,800 with half a load of hose and no water. I can carry about 750 gal. water. It might be built on a Mack EG chassis. Could be EF, also. Instruction books are still available, too. The Mack Museum might have info on it if the manufacture's plate is still bolted to the support under the passenger's seat. Style number should look like 45-S-XXXX. Keep in mind that restored trucks this vintage are being appraised high, but aren't selling for much, if they are selling at all. Check eBay and other truck sales sources for ideas. The 4 inch suction inlet under the front bumper is interesting, and odd. I'd say that the truck was a 'city' truck compared to a 'rural' truck that had to carry its own water supply in a larger tank in the hose bed. Like the AC on the dash.

After several years with ATHS and a local chapter, and after trying to get answers to some simple questions with no help, I am no longer with ATHS nor the local chapter. ATHS 'office' people REFUSED to talk to me since I was no longer a member. Good PR.

Just sent you a PM, from Eastern MA..

My local NAPA guy had a couple 'lolilpop' mirrors on the shelf. I tried one while I backed into the barn. Sure was a job, since I'm used to the 5x6 or bigger, with the fish eye lense on top and bottom. Shook all over the place while going down the road. Looks nice, but not functionally safe. It was removed before we left the station the next day, putting the bigger ones back on, both doors.

My '45 EN-330 water pump complete rebuild was about $350 in Lubbock, TX. They did something that makes the engine run cooler than I ever saw it run. After sitting at idle for 2 1/2 hours, temp was still close to 140 degrees. Had to shut down then re-started with no problems. Usually, it wouldn't re-start until completely cooled down.

Good suggestion, Packer. Remove the valve adjustment covers on the side of the engine and take a peek. What could have made that 'thud' that E2 heard, after the 1/4 turn? I could see a stuck valve, but would that stop all movement? I suppose if it stuck closed, then the rocker wouldn't move, and anything connected with it would stop moving, too. But, if you could go backwards 1/4 turn. Would that prove anything? Looks like E2 is heading in the correct direction with working on the periphial stuff, ie gas tank, sediment bowl, cables, etc., and prepping the engine, little by little. It just went 'thud', huh? Tranny in neutral, clutch released? Sounds like the tranny maybe was left in gear, but the gears were not engaged. When the flywheel rotated just enough, everything lined up and 'thud', it all fell into gear, and stuck. Or, did something jam under the distributor cap, since you did work under that? When you cleaned the sediment bowl, did you remove the fuel pump from the engine block to do it? If you did, was the 'finger' put back above or below the cam inside the engine, where it was removed from? Just thinking out loud........

I have a 1945 Mack, type EF/EG with an EN-330 6 cylinder engine. A local truck 'mechanic' was doing a pre-state inpection 'look thru' on my truck, for me. He checked the play in the steering, then moved over to the individual wheels. Raised the front axle on one side, pried the wheel up and down, then in and out and found no excessive play. He then raised the jack some more, put the breaker bar under the wheel, and pushed the wheel up, and it moved upwards. He said that I need new kingpins, pointing to it, sliding up and down. I thought sloppy wheel play or badly worn (uneven) tires indicated the need for king pin replacement? Anything else? Keep in mind, this 'mechanic' couldn't find my emergency brake (located on the driveshaft) nor my power steering assembly (which it hasn't). The truck does not have shock absorbers of any type. I don't want to replace them Yking pins) if they don't need to be replaced. IF I can find replacements, that is.

My '45 Mack has 'power steering by Armstrong'. Have to keep it well greased and tires with correct pressure in them. Front tires are wearing evenly, so no front end problems.

Engine 2 from Engine 2, your 'southern' cousin. What results did you get for starting the engine? Did it start? If the fuel is that old, drain it off. It could be bad or turned to varnish. There should be a 3/8 inch brass plug in the exact center of the bottom of the tank. If that doesn't work, pull the fuel line off before the carb and crank the engine with distributor wire off. This way, the engine won't start, then stop. If you have an electric fuel pump, just disconnect the fuel line from the carb. and turn on the ignition, the fuel pump should run, draining the tank. Looking down the gas tank filler pipe won't show what the tanks insides looks like because there is a slight bend in it just before the tank. Lift up the front seats, the fuel guage sending unit and syphon pipe are top center. You may have to remove the large sheet steel plate on top of the whole thing. Might not, too. Remove wire lead going to fuel guage, disconnect fuel syphon pipe fitting going to carb, then 4 Phillips head screws, lift off sending unit, watch for the float, and you can see the bottom of the tank. Before starting, hand crank if possible. If not possible, try using starter motor. If you remove the plugs, it should be easier, no compression. Could put a tablespoon of 3-in-1 oil in each cylinder before turning, letting it soak a couple days. Regap the plugs before putting them back in, or buy new ones. I think D-14 or D-16 Champions fit, that's what I use. Clean and regap the points, or get new cap, points, rotor and condenser. NAPA has them, at most an overnite wait. Remove the ends of the battery cables and clean them. They are at the starter, battery terminals, starter solenoid (on firewall), possibly a floor button or firewall button,a nd the ground return lead. The ground should be attached to the engine block near the starter, not on the chassis. That removes two connections that can suck away current/voltage when starting. A secondary ground can then be run from the engine to the frame. Charge the battery after checking the water level. Check water/water antifreeze solution level of the radiator. Clean out the mouse nest in the air filter. Clean out old oil bath and refill filter. Sit back in the seat, and try to start it. If it starts, don't over rev it, let it idle. Have a second person standing by with a fire extinguisher incase something goes wrong. DON'T CRANK TOO LONG. You're using 6 volts, I presume. Your starter draws alot of current and will heat up your cables quickly if it doesn't start. You're trying to move a very old big engine that hasn't started in a long time, with old oil, unless you changed that and the filter, before hand. What happened?????

Massachusetts RMV has 'built into' their yearly computerized inspection program, that if your truck is plated as ANTIQUE, has Massachusetts PAS type plates, and is over 10,000 pounds gvw, you will have to have a Commercial Truck Inspection, just like the big rigs. Even though, the Mass. & Fed. regs. specifically say that antique trucks do not have to pass the required commercial inspection procedures. If it has a pickup bed, then a non-commercial inspection, even though you're over 10K.. And having the Commercial inspection sticker, who knows what other things you have to do, ie stop at weigh stations, CDL, drug tests, driving records stuff, daily inspection sheets, etc., etc. Nobody thought about that, they don't know about these things, and they don't care. I know of one antique truck that is sitting in a locked garage batteries disconnected, gas tank drained, and no plans on being re-registered for 2010. Just means more money that the State of Massadchusetts won't be getting, ie registration fee, gas tax, excise tax, sales tax for parts needed, and no insurance needed, so the insurance company will be hurting.

Had a very successful rebuild of an EN330 watr pump done by O&G Water Pump Co., in Lubbock, TX. THey had a 'new' one sitting on the shelf, but the rebuild was more in my line of affordability.