Firemack

You can also have the original fuel pump rebuilt by Kanter Auto in Boonton New Jersey. About $88 including shipping. Good Luck Firemack

Thanks Randy, He is my project dog follows me everywhere to see what I am doing. If I go out to garage he will lay down at the garage door until I come back in. He loves to go for rides and loves people so a parade and muster was right up his alley.

I got a call from an old friend earlier this year that asked me if we would bring the Radnor B75 to the Wilmington Delaware Fire Departments 100th Anniversary Parade and Muster. For fun during the Covid break I tore down the Hale pump with some help from The Famous Supplee Brothers -Dan and Bill from Oreland. It took longer to rebuild the pump than it took to restore the whole truck, but got it wrapped up in time for Memorial Day. During the pump rebuild I had time to clean and paint most of the frame, pump and running gear, so most the hard work was complete to detail the truck for the Wilmington Parade. The night before decided to take my dog Gambit to the Parade- he is a large sheltie but makes a good imitation Dalmatian! Wilmington had 4 B75 pumpers and 4 B95 pumpers. 2 were in the Parade and muster. Over 100 trucks attended and a total of 6 B model pumpers were at the Muster! Had a great time at the Parade and Muster. We have to congratulate the guys from WFD, they did a great job organizing the parade and muster. We were honored to be awarded first place 1950-1969 Fire Company owned Truck and Gambit won the Mayor's Choice award. We

Just did the same check on a 1951. Check for power at the coils when you turn on the ignition. The if you have power at coils then check on the other side of the coil while cranking. If the test light goes on an off the points are working. Next check the rotor and cap, sometimes the rotor gets rusty and wears down the cap. Next Check for spark from coil to coil wire . Then check for spark at plugs. If all else fails replace with the pertronix, however you also need to replace all of the wires with Carbon wires to keep the warranty on the pertronix. I just replaced the wires rotor cap and points with Pertonix, Added fuel to the carb and the 51 L85 started right up. You can buy all of the parts from the Brillman company John Brillman owns an old autocar. www.brillman.com 540-477-4112. Tell him the distributor number and engine and can ship you everything you need. Have fun looks like you are making good progress. Firemack

The other option is go electronic ignition, I did a write up on that a few years ago when I swapped the points out on a 707 in a B95. You can search for it on the site and find all of the info and I purchased the high quality cap rotor wires and other parts from John Brillman. He actually has the template to make up the original wire sets with the Packard 440 original type wire and Pertronix electronic igntion. His number is 540-477-4112 or www.brillman.com. He also has the old truck disease (Autocar). Firemack

Glenn I am rebuilding my QL-1 (QL 75) pump and transfer case now on the 1954 Radnor B75 Mack (464 engine Hale 750 pump). I have the original Hale book and parts list and just purchased all of the bearings new (stock parts) the only part not available is the center bushing between the impellers, the front bushing is the most important and still available, I left you VM if you want to call and discuss. Firemack

Have a friend working on a 1945 Mack E series Fire Truck with the Continental engine and needs an Exhaust Manifold. The front section has cracked and needs a new section or complete manifold if anyone has one available . Could either be a 290 or 330 CI. Part number cast in the manifold is M 600 E 407 H. Message me if you have one or know a contact that may have one. Worst case if needed we can weld it up, but if possible would like to get an original part in good condition. Thanks Firemack

Have a friend working on a 1945 Mack E series Fire Truck with the Continental engine and needs an Exhaust Manifold. The front section has cracked and needs a new section or complete manifold if anyone has one available . Could either be a 290 or 330 CI. Part number cast in the manifold is M 600 E 407 H. Message me if you have one or know a contact that may have one. Worst case if needed we can weld it up, but if possible would like to get an original part in good condition. Thanks Firemack

Glenn, I switched to K&N air filter, K&N made it to fit right in the original Mack Chrome air cleaner. Replaces the original steel wool air cleaner. You can contact K&N and they have filters sized on what you need to fit in the original mack filter and engine displacement. Firemack

Engine 1252 You might want to consider changing over to electronic ignition to improve the performance and remove any chance of the points and condensor causing any problems. I used a Pertronix electronic ignition module for a 12 volt positive ground system. The parts are still available at NAPA but I like the quality of the parts from Brillman Company- he uses all brass fittings etc. I still purchased plugs from NAPA- AC R45. The points, condensor, (or electronic ignition module), cap, rotor and wires, I purchased from Brillman Company in Mt Jackson VA. Contact John Brillman at 540-477-4112, he is a nice guy, and you may see him at a VA truck meet as he has an old Autocar tractor. Once you install the ignition parts you will need a regular timing light attached the positive (red lead) and negative (black lead) of the battery (and the timing lead connected to number one spark plug wire on one of the distributors at a time). The timing light does not need to reversed for positive ground and will most likely ruin the timing light if not correctly connected. You can use a engine dwell tach or engine analyzer with the red lead connected to the primary wire of the distributor (Ground) and the black lead connected to the ignition hot at the coil. This can then be used to set the dwell (if you decide to use points and condensor) or to monitor the engine rpm to set the idle mixture and idle speed. Timing on a 707C is done on the flywheel under the truck not on the front pulley. You set the dwell and then set the timing. Do one distributor at a time and it makes it easy to get the truck started (on the one you have not changed) and then adjust the timing on the one you just updated. After setting the dwell and timing on both then set the idle mixture for the highest idle speed, then reset the idle speed. I usually set the idle at about 600 rpm but can be set as low as 350 if you like it there. If you mark the wires and send them to John Brillman he makes the original style (Packard 440) wire sets in the exact size of the wire set you send him and is reasonably priced (a little more than Napa). This way you have an exact replacement wire set and not some mix and match from a parts catalog. Good luck, Firemack

Check the drag link , it has 2 adjustable ends that have large screw type threaded ends that can be tightened to reduce the play, if the buttons are popped up then they need to be adjusted. If you have a manual will show how this is adjusted, but basically loosen up the end squeeze down the end play buttons which pop up when too much end play and tighten them down again.

B Models with Juice brakes have a round hole about 4"' in diameter locatedunder the drivers seat. Uses 2 screws to hold it down. 1 screw comes loose to rotate it out of the way to check the master cylinder.

Our 1954 Mack ENF464 gets between 1.0 to 3.5 MPG. 1.0 around town, 3.5 down hill on the interstate.