Timmyb Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 So I was changing my steer axle over to 10 stud today. To cut a long story short, I couldn't get a seal to fit the hub and stub axle. I can get one to fit the hub, and another to fit the stub axle but not one for both. So I'm looking at getting the hub machined to fit the supposed "proper" seal.In the pic below, if I get the hub machined to accept an off the shelf seal, I will be left with a thickness of 1/4inch or 6mm where the seal will sit. Can anyone see a problem with that?Green seal fits, but inner diameter is too small. Blue one is correct inner diameter but too big outer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 could you just get a sleeve machined to make the hub a bit smaller and press it in ?????or you could just machine it 1/4 inch would be fine I think but Im just a farmer so dont call me on the dog and bone if she lets go on the side of the road Paul 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmyb Posted September 11, 2015 Author Share Posted September 11, 2015 Just so the measurements are out there. My hub measures 123mm. Stub axle measures about 99mm. I can get a hub seal which is 120mm, but would need a 1.5mm sleeve, which would be a bit flimsy wouldn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gmerrill0516 Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 I think you would be okay with that. The material you would remove is hanging out the back of the hub. The load is outboard of the bearing which is in the other direction of where the seal sits. I'm sure it must add something to the equation but if it were mine and I had no other viable options I'd do it...I would review all other options first for good measure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41chevy Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 I would get some brass shim stock that will add up to 1.6 or 1.7 mm and fit it between the seal and hub as you install the seal. With a good interference fit it should be equal to the proper seals fit. Machining a 1.5 mm shim is a easy job for a good machinist. I've had .060 " shims made to fit between the inner race and a shaft with no problems. Both made from brass and aluminum. Paul Quote "OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK" Thomas Edison “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’” P.T.CHESHIRE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vladislav Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 I'm for a sleeve.Keeping 6 mm in the hub over the seal area seems quite enough to me.It's just not nice to disturb any original part having no really hard need. 1 Quote Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmyb Posted September 12, 2015 Author Share Posted September 12, 2015 Thanks for your input guys. I'm just stuffed as to why there isn't a seal available to fit what I already have. Can anyone give me a seal number or size of the their seal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearhead204 Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 Timm , check the seal depth also. as I see the blue seal has a lot more shoulder on it than the other, also is the blue one a stemco? as most of them are to be used with a wear ring. did you make sure that the stub shaft does not still have a wear ring stuck to the seal surface? as for the machine work on the hub you could always cut the bore a little bigger then press a steel insert into the bore and then have it turned to the needed dia. that way you wouldn't have such a thin insert. just a thought ...good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmyb Posted September 12, 2015 Author Share Posted September 12, 2015 Gearhead, your spot on. I was looking in my mack book and noticed the wear ring. No dimensions were given so I'll check my stub axle tomorrow. Yes blue one is stemco, green one is skf. Also, the green seal is a newer type which spins on its self so it wouldn't need a wear ring. As for the machining, labour costs in Aus might put a stop to that. So I'll see what their quote comes too! I remember building a 302 Windsor years ago and was cheaper to buy new heads from US then port mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
220cummins Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 What's the thickness on a "speedy sleave" or "wedding band" for putting on the axle? I've used them before for scored axle tubes. I can't recall the exact thickness Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmyb Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 Spoke to a mate who has used them. Apparently they aren't very thick. Looks like I'm gonna return the hubs if all else fails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vladislav Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 Try Stemco.com (or something like that) and Timken.com.There's a great stock of seals of incredable different sizes.Having parts# from there you might find exact seals in many places. Just google the #.They seals aren't heavy so mail box cost wouldn't bite you hard even from the States.I did that when was looking for the seals for my Mack MH.They were of some strange size either and I ended up with Stemco from my local dealer.All that is good if you have time enough to wait though. 1 Quote Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 mate 1.5 mm would be heaps big enough to press in I would think I would be surprised if you cant find something to fit as Vlad says you might have to search further afield Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmyb Posted September 14, 2015 Author Share Posted September 14, 2015 Putting it down to wrong hub. Thanks for all the help guys. Hope next time is a lot easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmyb Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 So I received my new hubs, both the bearings and the seal fits. I think I'm into a winner here! WAIT! Wheel won't spin to do bearings up. Rim is touching the ball joint thingy. What the f#*k am I missing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmyb Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmyb Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 They are standard 8-1/4 inch rims. Am I supposed to run a spacer on them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 Tim have you got the part numbers and things and what front axle you have as it might make it a lot easier for people to work out whats wrong I have no idea at all way out of my league Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmyb Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 I can confirm the axle in the morning, but I'm pretty sure it's a mack 12,000lb axle. Hubs are genuine mack hf 725.I wonder if a spacer plate would work?Or a better alternative would be to use a straight cross steering lever. As mine is bend down, and that's why it's hitting the rim. A lot of the Macks in the USA have 10 stud rims so would love to know how they do it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e9500v8 Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 I believe the cross steering lever is shorter and straight. The tie rod end fits kinda up inside the wheel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmyb Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 I believe the cross steering lever is shorter and straight. The tie rod end fits kinda up inside the wheel. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThanks Allen, I'll see if I can sort something out today. Appreciate the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 Timmy sounds like you might need to get the gas axe out and adjust to suit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmyb Posted October 7, 2015 Author Share Posted October 7, 2015 Don't tempt me Paul! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41chevy Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 How much room for clearance is needed? Paul Quote "OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK" Thomas Edison “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’” P.T.CHESHIRE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmyb Posted October 7, 2015 Author Share Posted October 7, 2015 L/h side is only just touching. I can spin the tyre by hand. R/h side is a bit tighter. Can't spin the tyre. I reckon a 5/16 spacer would work. My mate reckons if I drive it long enough there will eventually become a clearance. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.