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Clutch Adjustment


ff6cav

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I'm looking for somebody to point me in the right direction/give some advice for trying to adjust the clutch on my C85. It's just started occasionally slipping while under load in 4th and 5th gear, and I'm hoping an adjustment will help, as opposed to replacing/rebuilding. I looked over the manual for the truck, but had some trouble wrapping my head around what it was saying; maybe because that was before my daily cups of coffee? :whistling:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Have you had a chance to look inside to see what sort of gap you have right now?

I haven't gotten that far into it quite yet, will hopefully be able to look into it in the next few days

How much freeplay in the pedal? Does the clutch engage at the top of the travel?

I haven't paid all too close attention to that, but now that you mention it, it does seem to be more towards the top when it engages. The thing I've noticed is, when I first bought it back in February, there was no slippage at all, and the more I've driven it, it seems to have developed- could it be that the linkage has worked itself loose from lack of use, and now being used more since I bought it?

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Looks like a lot of oil. None on the disk is there?

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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Yeah.....Lotta oil in there. Keep the thought of a blown rear main seal in the back of your mind. Check the pad thickness- if it's pretty worn, between that and the oil, you can adjust that thing all you want but it'll keep slipping, You may have to drop the clutch and send it out for a rebuild. Aaaaaand since you have the tranny and clutch down, you may as well drop the pan and roll a new rear main seal in there. If you do wind up dropping the clutch and tranny, don't forget to check the flywheel surface and get that machined if necessary.

TWO STROKES ARE FOR GARDEN TOOLS

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After investigating things a little more today, I think I've narrowed down the problem. There appears to be oil leaking from behind the fuel pump, where it connects to the side of the engine, which extends back along the side and underside of the engine and transmission. The closer to the fuel pump you get, the more fresh and thick the oil is. The rig had sat without being run for about a year before I bought it, so my best guess (and based on you guys' suggestions) is that the gasket between the fuel pump and engine went bad, and the more I drove it, the more oil pushed out and began getting into the clutch, eventually causing the slippage. My question now is, how should I go about trying to clean the oil off the parts in the clutch? Thoughts/suggestions?

post-5929-0-93724800-1440889998_thumb.jp

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Generally once the clutch has oil contamination it's toast. Slipping generates heat and can cause problems with flywheel and pressure plate surfaces. You can remove it and "try" to cook it out with a torch (rarely really works more than 50% of the time), clean and scuff the flywheel and pressure plate.

I'd fix the leak(s) rebuild the clutch assembly, check the rear seal on G.P. and start fresh. Less trouble in the long run and less labor in the end. Paul

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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I agree; once it is oil coated it is pretty hard to get the clutch disc to work correctly again. But, you could try the obvious since the adage of "nothing to lose by trying" applies here. Use brake cleaner very liberally and let it run off, spin the engine a 1/4 turn and do it again, when it is as clean as you can get it do it again while the clutch pedal is depressed. Spin the engine a 1/4 turn, spray again, etc. I doubt it will work, but it is a lot easier and cheaper than pulling the engine or tranny to re-build the clutch.

If it comes down to a re-build I would seriously consider pulling the engine in lieu of removing the tranny so you can replace all of the oil sealing gaskets and properly clean and paint it. It will take a serious lift, so you may want to get a shop to do it if you don't have a big hoist or fork truck.

Good luck.

Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

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hey fx, I'm with you on the brake cleaner try. I have gotten grease on the rotors (and pads as a result) from lubing the ball joints and if it worked for brake pads maybe if the clutch is made from a similar material what have you got to lose?

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...But, you could try the obvious since the adage of "nothing to lose by trying" applies here...

If it comes down to a re-build I would seriously consider pulling the engine in lieu of removing the tranny so you can replace all of the oil sealing gaskets and properly clean and paint it. It will take a serious lift, so you may want to get a shop to do it if you don't have a big hoist or fork truck.

Good luck.

hey fx, I'm with you on the brake cleaner try. I have gotten grease on the rotors (and pads as a result) from lubing the ball joints and if it worked for brake pads maybe if the clutch is made from a similar material what have you got to lose?

That's pretty much my theory right now- might as well try brake cleaner, the worst that can happen is that it doesn't do anything or does something bad to the clutch, which would need rebuilt either way. If it doesn't work, I'm going to just keep everything together to get me to 1 or 2 more musters this year, and do the heavy work over the winter. Thanks for the advice and input so far!

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Do it with the clutch disengaged so you can get the surfaces. Good Luck with it post how it comes out. Paul

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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Do it with the clutch disengaged so you can get the surfaces. Good Luck with it post how it comes out

I agree, but get as much off as possible with the clutch engaged before you disengage it. I would prop a piece of wood between the seat and the pedal to hold it down while you spray it.

Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

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Yup, spray away. Spray from the bottom also.

Try to find a rubber hose that will fit the plastic stray that comes with the brake clean which will make it easier to direct the spray around while keeping the can upright.

Great, thanks! I'm working all weekend, but will give it a shot on tuesday

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  • 2 months later...

Quick update: I've tried the baby powder idea, dumping it in the top opening with the clutch disengaged, and it doesn't seem to have done anything to help. I feel that the baby powder isn't getting to the actual clutch face; I may try more brake cleaner when I get a chance. I've pretty well adapted my driving to compensate for the slippage, but it gets pretty slow on long upward grades.

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