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Finally did it. I now own a Mack.


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Pulled out more old wiring today. Lots of runs went nowhere. Can't believe how much wiring I've taken out. So much was scabbed in or just hanging around.

All the wiring from the cab back to the rear lights will be new. Maybe by the end of the week the chassis will be completely painted, too.

Just picked up permanent plates for it today as well.

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Ran the new 5-wire from the cab back to the rear lights today and hooked up everything but the license plate light. I've got directionals and tail-lights, but no brake lights yet because the switch under the cab isn't hooked up yet. By tomorrow's end, I should have 100% lighting on the truck (and maybe a painted chassis).

BTW, with five different rear lights also functioning as full-time tail-lights (two directionals, two brake lights, one licence plate light), I needed to come up with a good way to hook them all into the tail-light wire feed. My dad and I came up with a pretty neat solution which I'll take a pic tomorrow and post it. I think you guys will like it, too.

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Ran the new 5-wire from the cab back to the rear lights today and hooked up everything but the license plate light. I've got directionals and tail-lights, but no brake lights yet because the switch under the cab isn't hooked up yet. By tomorrow's end, I should have 100% lighting on the truck (and maybe a painted chassis).

BTW, with five different rear lights also functioning as full-time tail-lights (two directionals, two brake lights, one licence plate light), I needed to come up with a good way to hook them all into the tail-light wire feed. My dad and I came up with a pretty neat solution which I'll take a pic tomorrow and post it. I think you guys will like it, too.

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What are you using to isolate the stud from the chassis?, from the pictures looks like the stud is through the metal plate that is attached to the rear cross member which would not allow it to work.

This what I use for doing what you did the single post with cap is like $.75 and multiple studs with cover (I typically use the 4 or 6) are $3-$4 respectively.

post-10018-0-86566000-1429623088.jpgpost-10018-0-57188700-1429623090.jpg

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Robert

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."

 

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What are you using to isolate the stud from the chassis?, from the pictures looks like the stud is through the metal plate that is attached to the rear cross member which would not allow it to work.

This what I use for doing what you did the single post with cap is like $.75 and multiple studs with cover (I typically use the 4 or 6) are $3-$4 respectively.

attachicon.gif71252_primary.jpgattachicon.gif73800_primary.jpg

That's not a metal plate you are looking at. It's rubber, and it works just fine. I've got a piece of fire hose that will go over it to protect it from the elements.

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Today's progress:

1. Greased the truck again. After steam cleaning it, it seemed like the sensible thing to do.

2. Took the driver's dashboard out, stripped it, primed and painted it. That was the last part of the interior to not have paint (because painting it in place earlier would have been difficult with all the gauges in place).

3. While the gauges are out, I took the fuel gauge apart to clean the glass, which was dirty and cloudy to the point where you almost couldn't see through it. Now it's clean and clear. I also attached a new needle to the tachometer. All I did was cut a piece of plastic out of an Armor All container and super glue it to the small piece that was still there.

4. Replaced all the small bulbs that light up the dashboard.

Hopefully, I will have pics for you tomorrow.

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i have never been a fan of that style crimp connectors even covered they are prone to corrosion. i will ocasionally use them on interior stuff and even then i pack them with some silicone and then put shrink wrap on them.

i know yours isnt going to be a everyday working truck so it will probably be fine but id probably still try to squirt some silicone up the backside of the crimp connectors and smear a little on the front side before you cover everything up.

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