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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Fuel Tank Leak



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9 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   farmer52

farmer52

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  • Location:Canton, OH and Roaring Spring, PA
  • Make:Mack
  • Model:MH612
  • Year:1992

Posted 27 July 2012 - 05:26 AM

Not sure where to post this message...

My left (main) fuel tank (84 gallon aluminum) is starting to leak on the bottom under the front support strap. My guess it has "corroded" from years of winter road salt.

Questions:
1. Should I remove the tank and have it welded (if possible)?
2. Or try to locate a like tank (2MB4977AM2 and date code)?

I can't switch the RH tank because the original owner installed a fuel heater (cut the top of the tank). And the cover will interfere with the supports.

Any suggestions are appreciated.
Ken
HOF City, PRR Country, and Charter member of the "Mack Pack"

#2 OFFLINE   Rob

Rob
  • Location:Mack Paradise-Farmington, Illinois
  • Make:Mack
  • Model:A-40H, B-61T, B-61ST, B-67ST, B-61S, RL-797LST, RL-797LST, RL-755L, R795, R612ST
  • Year:1951 1957 1958 1962 1964 1973 1974 1978 1977 1980

Posted 27 July 2012 - 07:19 AM

Not sure where to post this message...

My left (main) fuel tank (84 gallon aluminum) is starting to leak on the bottom under the front support strap. My guess it has "corroded" from years of winter road salt.

Questions:
1. Should I remove the tank and have it welded (if possible)?
2. Or try to locate a like tank (2MB4977AM2 and date code)?

I can't switch the RH tank because the original owner installed a fuel heater (cut the top of the tank). And the cover will interfere with the supports.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Ken I usually clean/abrade the corroded area to about 1" distant of the corrosion,. then weld a patch over the area. I've seen guys glue using a patch of aluminum over the area with a JB Weld type material but I've not done that myself.

Rob
Going through life knowing considerably more about nothing than the next person.

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Raining on your parade

#3 OFFLINE   Freightrain

Freightrain
  • Location:Ohio
  • Make:Mack
  • Model:B61
  • Year:59

Posted 27 July 2012 - 08:03 AM

I had the bottom replaced on one of my steel tanks many years ago at Barberton Spring and Radiator.

Couple years ago I had a leak around the tread plate. I pulled the tread plate off, drained the tank down below that point and welded a 1 1/2" wide strip acrorss the corner. Put step plate back on and some black paint. Presto-chango no leaks.
Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

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Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

#4 OFFLINE   dover

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  • Location:Elko NV
  • Make:Mack
  • Model:B733
  • Year:1962

Posted 27 July 2012 - 08:04 AM

Another option is a product called Belzona. It is an industrial strength JB weld type product. I had a 3/8 by 4" slot in the side of my t case in my pick up that I patched with it and so far I have no leaks.
1962 B733 L cab

#5 OFFLINE   daveigou

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Posted 27 July 2012 - 08:09 AM

Would it work to isolate that tank, leave it dry, and run out of the left?

#6 OFFLINE   Rob

Rob
  • Location:Mack Paradise-Farmington, Illinois
  • Make:Mack
  • Model:A-40H, B-61T, B-61ST, B-67ST, B-61S, RL-797LST, RL-797LST, RL-755L, R795, R612ST
  • Year:1951 1957 1958 1962 1964 1973 1974 1978 1977 1980

Posted 27 July 2012 - 08:15 AM

Another option is a product called Belzona. It is an industrial strength JB weld type product. I had a 3/8 by 4" slot in the side of my t case in my pick up that I patched with it and so far I have no leaks.

That is the product I was thinking of but couldn't remember the name for nuthin.

That product however does work well and is impervious to petroleum products. Make absolutely certain the area is clean before you apply it by wiping with 91% isopropyl, or denatured alcohol and allowing to dry.

Rob
Going through life knowing considerably more about nothing than the next person.

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#7 OFFLINE   farmer52

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  • Model:MH612
  • Year:1992

Posted 27 July 2012 - 10:57 AM

Would it work to isolate that tank, leave it dry, and run out of the left?


Dave - the draw and return lines and level sender are in the left (leaking) tank. I was looking this morning and perhaps I could replumb everything to the right tank. I hate to change everything but may be easier than removing/repairing the left tank. Or at least buy me time to get the left tank repaired.
Ken
HOF City, PRR Country, and Charter member of the "Mack Pack"

#8 OFFLINE   daveigou

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Posted 27 July 2012 - 11:56 AM

That was the gist of my suggestion, it would be quick, easy and budget friendly, and it really would not change the look of your truck.

Another suggestion is in the mean time, check with your local dealers for a new "take off" tank, it seems like that is an item that often gets changed before the truck gets delivered because a customer wants a different size, or maybe would have scratches or blemishes that the customer would not accept. 84 gal is a popular size.

#9 OFFLINE   David

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Posted 27 July 2012 - 12:05 PM

Some of those trucks used the same tank on both sides. Might be easier to move the right tank to the left while fixing the leak than to replumb. You could check and clean the other tank when its off and replace the rubber.

#10 OFFLINE   thomastractorsvc

thomastractorsvc
  • Location:Kansas City
  • Make:Mack
  • Model:B61T Contour Cab, R686ST
  • Year:1959 (Born December 2, 1958), 1980

Posted 27 July 2012 - 12:54 PM

I would take it off and repair like rob said, I just had one fixed and a step repaired on the other tank for $100. If I had a spool gun would have done it myself. If one tank is corroded that bad on the strap the other one that is not leaking is probably not that far from leaving stains on the concrete. When I put it back on the truck I was going to cover the weldwith an epoxy/steel (quick steel) http://www.dual-star...epoxy_putty.htm. Have used in the past with great results.




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